After a long time we had our first “real” monsoon trip of
this season. It was a result of a month-long planning with my office colleagues;
we had to tweak it a bit at the end though. Our initial plan was for the Kaas
Plateau - कास पठार (Maharashtra’s very own Valley
of Flowers ), the yearly
season being August and September. We had even done the booking on their website. However last week we came to know that there are no flowers yet, might
be due to delayed monsoon. We therefore changed our destination to Bamnoli (बामणोली), a lake-village
about 15 kms ahead of Kaas. This would give us an opportunity also, to really
see the status of flowers and plan our future Kaas-specific trip next time.
Since last 8-10 days we didn’t witness rains in Pune. I was
wondering how “dry” our trip is going to be. But from the point we left our
house, it was drizzling continuously all along the trip till evening when we
decided to get back to Pune. In between this drizzle, there were heavy showers
which lasted for about 5 minutes and again subsided to give way to the sprinkles.
By the time we neared the Kaas Plateau, it started getting
foggy all over. It seemed as if we were driving on the clouds. At 12 noon, it
seemed as if its just 8 O’clock in the morning.
Ascending the ghat after the plateau was more pathetic. Near
the Kaas Lake , people had parked
(locked) there cars on the sides causing a traffic jam due to a very small
road.
We had reached the lake when heavy showers started suddenly.
With 3 small kids with us we had to rush back to our cars.
We went for a ride to Tapola (तापोळा). It was a one hour return ride. This Motor Boat ride with its diesel engine roaring at the center, cool breeze gushing through the ears and drizzling rain drops coming inside was mesmerizing. Kids enjoyed a lot, even we adults. We reached Tapola in half-an-hour’s time. Tapola is actually the point which is ahead to Mahabaleshwar. It is referred to Mini-Kashmir – only because of its similarity in boating facilities to that ofDal (दल) Lake in Srinagar (श्रीनगर) .
We got down here as we had 15 minutes time to return back.
But just to mention, there is no point actually in getting down here. Boating
and the view of the Lake ahead are the only
places to see here, just as in Bamnoli.
I started off with my family from Narayan Peth at 6.30. I
was to meet 3 more families coming from Chinchwad directly through the Mumbai-Bangalore Bypass Highway .
Finding a flat tire and therefore after mending it, I reached Dari Pul (Valley Bridge ) on NH-4 from Sinhagad Road
at 7.20 am.
The 2 Tata Vistas and 1 Fiat Punto started the journey at
7.30 am. We took the same route till Satara Tunnel (refer my last years trip to Thoseghar).
The Machines |
We had a gratifying breakfast of Misal-Pav and Idli Sambar
in between as well as a fuel pit-stop and we reached the Tunnel after Satara by
11.00 am. Going through this tunnel will take you to Fort Sajjangadh ,
Thoseghar Waterfalls and Chalkewadi Wind-mills. Just prior to the tunnel there
is this road going up-hill on right. It goes to Kaas and Bamnoli. A small
sign-board is available.
Initially, there are two very bad road patches of about
quarter a kilometer each. Later on the road condition is OK to Good; however
the width is extremely small. One car coming from the front and either of you
will have to go off-road.
As you start ascending, you can see the outstanding view of Satara City-scape down on your right. We were just imagining how this view would be looking at night with the street and building lights glowing. Once on top, prior to the Kaas Plateau, two water bodies are seen on both sides of the road - Urmodi (उरमोडी) Dam on LH side and Kaanher (कान्हेर) Dam on RH side.
As you start ascending, you can see the outstanding view of Satara City-scape down on your right. We were just imagining how this view would be looking at night with the street and building lights glowing. Once on top, prior to the Kaas Plateau, two water bodies are seen on both sides of the road - Urmodi (उरमोडी) Dam on LH side and Kaanher (कान्हेर) Dam on RH side.
Kaanher Dam |
Just at the point where the plateau starts, they have now
constructed a check-post tent. Now after Kaas Plateau being declared a World
Heritage Site, prior online booking is required, an entry fee of Rs. 10 /
person is charged, fencing is being constructed on both sides of the roads –
legally you cannot trespass on the fields leaving the road, actually vehicle
parking is also not allowed on the road side. Therefore one cannot do all those
activities that were done till last year – parking the vehicles on road, driving
on the plateau damaging the natural habitat, littering with chocolate and
wafers wrappers, etc.
I was apprehensive about this online booking stuff; however
we had carried the booking printout with us. And that guy at the check-post
asked us for the booking print (surprised?). We paid the entry-fee, received a
proper receipt of Rs. 10 and then we were allowed to move ahead. What I found
was though security guards are present after every few 100 meters; they are
finding it very difficult in preventing the visitors to park their vehicles on
road. At many times either fencing is not yet completed or gaps are made in
between and people were squeezing through.
One good observation is that there is couple of off-roads
made, with fencing of course, from the main road so that visitors can go on the
plateau in a controlled environment.
We also stopped for 5 minutes; however, as heard earlier,
flowering had just started. Very few flowers had blossomed and it would take
another 15-20 days or so to witness “this” beauty of the place. Apart from
this, there was so much of fog that we were not able to get a clear view. Also,
our destination was Bamnoli. Therefore we found it suitable not to waste time
here and hence moved ahead.
Kaas Plateau |
Fencing being erected along both sides of road |
A little ahead we found an open space by the road. Here we
parked our vehicles and went by the lake side. This is the Kaas Lake , constructed about a century ago. Satara City
receives water from here.
It is mentioned to be "a hidden gem" on one of the blogs. One misunderstands the Kaanher Dam to be the Kaas Lake. It suddenly appears while ascending a ghat after the Plateau on RH side. And as the guy has mentioned, it "is" surely a Gem. We could see a blanket of fog spread over kissing the water surface. The scene was surreal.
It is mentioned to be "a hidden gem" on one of the blogs. One misunderstands the Kaanher Dam to be the Kaas Lake. It suddenly appears while ascending a ghat after the Plateau on RH side. And as the guy has mentioned, it "is" surely a Gem. We could see a blanket of fog spread over kissing the water surface. The scene was surreal.
Kaas Lake |
Again our destination was calling us. Hence, without wasting
much time we cooched ahead. The road from here was a descending ghat with swift
twists and turns through the dense cover of trees; and with heavy fog, it was
giving an eerie feeling in the atmosphere.
By 1.45 pm we reached Bamnoli, a very small and quiet
village on the banks of “Shiv-sagar”, back-waters of Koyana (कोयना) Dam. Compared to
the rush and crowd that we saw at Kaas, this place was much better. Though
there is no specified parking space, the road was enough to hold whatever
vehicles visited that day. There were volunteers, may be the boat club members,
to guide the visitors for parking space.
Main activity at Bamnoli is boating. A privately owned Boat
Club is functional here. Motor Boats of the capacity of 6 to 12 patrons are
operated. Fare and visit route is fixed based on time required – which ranges
from 45 minutes to a full day. Places include Triveni Sangam (Rivers Koyana,
Solashi and Kandati), Tapola, Datta Mandir, Vasota Fort, etc. Fare mentioned on
the board was for a group of either 6 or 12 patrons. However, it is calculated
based on total head count at the end.
Bamnoli - Shivsagar Lake (Koyna Dam backwaters) |
We went for a ride to Tapola (तापोळा). It was a one hour return ride. This Motor Boat ride with its diesel engine roaring at the center, cool breeze gushing through the ears and drizzling rain drops coming inside was mesmerizing. Kids enjoyed a lot, even we adults. We reached Tapola in half-an-hour’s time. Tapola is actually the point which is ahead to Mahabaleshwar. It is referred to Mini-Kashmir – only because of its similarity in boating facilities to that of
Boat-ride to Tapola |
After we reached back to Bamnoli, we had a filling Lunch. It
was already 3.15 pm and everyone was dying of hunger. There are small restaurants,
actually run by the villagers in front of the spaces of their houses. They
provide a typical Maharashtrian Veg / Non-Veg Thali. To save time, you can give
the order, go for boating and have your food once you return.
By 4.15 pm we started our return journey. We took the same
way back. While climbing up the ghat to Kaas Plateau, it felt the same, as if
it was still 8 O’clock in the morning.
After a cup of tea once we were on NH-4 we reached Pune at
9.00 pm.
Coordinates:
17° 43' 02.31" N / 73 48' 51.18" E Kaas Lake
17° 44' 1" N / 73° 45' 36" E Bamnoli