“Agar
firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast, Hameen ast-o hameen ast-o hameen ast (If
there is Heaven on Earth, It’s here, it’s here, it’s here)”. These are the
words of Persian Poet Aamir Khusru explaining what Kashmir is all about.
We
company friends (4 of us) decided to visit Vaishno Devi. It was Kiran’s idea and
a wish, which we three also realized & decided to take it up. Then Srinagar
was planned as well for 2 days.
Plan was made 3 months in advance & train tickets were booked immediately. We had booked return tickets for Pune – Jammu Tawi Jhelum Express (11077 / 11078). Stay arrangement at Srinagar were made at Privilege Guest House through one acquaintance. Stay at Katra (base town for Vaishnodevi) was not planned; it was decided to directly reach Katra & look for stay. Since the time of July was supposed to be the off-season in that region, it was expected that there would be no rush.
Prelude to our trip was filled with some negative news all around. Due to fire at Itarasi Signal Control Station on 23rd June 2015, many trains were getting cancelled including Jhelum Express. During last 10 days of our journey, Jhelum was running only alternate days. One week before our departure, there were heavy rains near Sonamarg & a cloud-burst. Jammu-Srinagar Highway (NH-1) was closed due to land-slides. There was some news about agitation in Srinagar as well. We started making alternate train reservations. We had made about 3 more reservations, in case our train gets cancelled or NH-1 is closed.
Finally, we got a confirmation 2 days prior that our train will be running. At last we boarded Jhelum Express (11077) on 18-Jun-15 evening from Pune Station. After covering one of the longest train journeys in India – 38 hours for about 2000 kms – we reached Jammu in the morning of 20-Jun-15 at 11.15 am (late by 1:15 hours).
Katra is a place about 40 kms from Jammu by road. It’s a small town but an important one because of it being the base camp for Vaishno Devi Pilgrimage – 2nd most visited temple in India after Tirupati. Vaishno Devi is one of the holiest pilgrimages for Hindus. Vaishno Devi Temple has been recreated at two places – a smaller one at Pimpri (near Pune) while a much larger one at Indore. After seeing both, it was my chance to see the original.
Katra is very well connected with Jammu – Private Buses, Taxis ply regularly from Jammu Railway Station. And, now Katra can be visited by train as well. Jammu-Katra is on the ambitious Kashmir Railway Project which India has undertaken. Under this project, Kashmir Valley will be connected to India through Railway (fully operational hopefully by 2020) which was so far not possible due to the terrain. Technological advancements will now make this possible to lay railway tracks from Jammu till Baramulla via Srinagar. Just one leg of this project is yet to be completed – Katra-Banihal. Other 3 legs are ready & being used – Jammu-Udhampur, Udhampur-Katra & Banihal-Baramulla.
July 20, 2015:
When
we reached Jammu at 11.15 am, we came to know there is a passenger train (DMU)
at 12 noon for Katra. We decided to undertake this train journey, as this was
newly launched service (PM Modi inaugurated Udhampur-Katra Railway Service in
July 2014). We caught up the DMU amidst heavy rush. The train takes about 2
hours to reach Katra. By road it is about 1 hour as the train goes by the
longer route via Udhampur
(Jammu-Baljata-Sangar-Manwal-Ramnagar-Udhampur-Katra).
The
route is excellent. Tracks cut through the mountains with Tawi River by the
side is awesome. After 56 bridges (read it somewhere, I didn’t count) & 30
tunnels (I counted these), we reached Katra at 2 pm. Katra Railway Station (or
Shri Mata Vaishno Devi Katra – SMVD Katra as it is named) can be the Model
Railway Station in the country. In first instance, it seems to be an Airport.
Clean Platforms, Clean Tracks, Wide Walkways, Cool Entrance, Green Lawns, Solar
Panels over the shades, an Escalator (though it is not yet functioning) – all
these are too good.
Katra Railway Station |
Access Card |
After getting our access cards, we moved towards the base entrance and started our walk at 5.30 pm. We purchased the “Jai Mata Di” head-bands & a walking stick. Ensure take a visiting card of that shop. You can return back those walking sticks & get back half the money. Sticks costs for Rs. 10 & 20 depending on the size & type.
One can either walk or hire a Horse, or a Doli. Pitthus are available to carry the luggage or small kids & babies. Rate card is available. Nowadays Helicopter service is also available during day-time. Ponies cost Rs. 700, Dolis cost Rs. 4000 (both-ways) while helicopter service costs Rs. 1039 (one-way). Helicopter service is from Katra to Sanjhichat which is about 2.5 kms from Bhawan (which houses Main Cave).
Yatra starts from here |
Shri Mata Vaishno Devi Shrine Board has provided excellent amenities all along – First Aid Centers, Drinking Water, Snacks Centre, Washrooms, Sitting Areas. Security Check-points are also there in between. The Shrine Board has done a commendable job in preparing & maintaining the route. Same must have been since last 15-20 years. Earlier, the route actually was a small path cut through the hill; even riding on a horse was frightening. Watch the song “Mata Ne Bulaya Hai” from Hindi Classic movie “Avatar”; it shows how the pilgrimage was in 1980s.
Vaishno Devi yatra, they say, happens only if there is a Call from the Goddess (Maa Kaa Bulawa).
Vaishno Devi is actually the natural rock formations – 3 Pindis (Maha-Saraswati, Maha- Laxmi & Maha-Kali) inside a Cave. Bhavan is the place, the congregation of buildings, which houses this Cave. Bhavan is about 12 kms from starting point at Katra. Mid-way at about 5/6 kms, the route separates out into two – one through Adhkuwari and another through Himkoti. The one through Himkoti is 1 km shorter. Horses go by Adhkuwari route. Adhkuwari is the half-way to the yatra to the Main Cave. It is about 6 kms from Katra.
The bright lights at the centre is the "Bhawan" |
Katra town as seen from top - bright lights at the centre is the Railway Station |
With few pit-stops, we reached the top at 9.30 pm. This seemingly exhaustive journey is not so tiresome actually. Since you travel in a group (known as well as unknown people), with an intense desire, shouting (or listening to) slogans of “Mata”, you doesn’t feel that effort. Once at the top, we had some light food, deposited our belongings in lockers & went for the Darshan. There was not much rush and it took another hour or so for us to reach the Cave.
Goddess Vaishnavi in her child (Kumari) form lived sometime during Lord Ram’s Age. On his insistence, she came at the bottom of these hills (Trikoot Parvat) for meditation. During some Bhandara arrange by a local Brahmin, she was harassed by Bhairon Nath. Vaishnavi ran away from him, climbed up the Trikoot Mountan & hid inside a Cave. She did meditation here for 9 months. Bhairon Nath reached here searching her. Vaishnavi ran away from him by breaking away the Cave on other side using her Trishool. This Cave is now known Garbha-joon & is at Adhkuwari. Pilgrims do go through this Cave & it is said that coming out is like a new birth after washing out of all the sins.
Vaishnavi climbed up to run away from Bhairon Nath. She came across another Cave; she hid inside. Bhairon Nath followed here also. At the entrance of the Cave, Vaishnavi severed the Head of Bhairon Nath killing him. So much was the force that the Head flew away & landed at the hillock above the Cave. Bhairon Nath died, but he expressed his remorse & shame before Vaishnavi for his wrong behavior. Vaishnavi granted a wish to him; Bhairon Nath temple is made at the place on the hillock where his Head fell & the devotees would have to visit that temple after Vaishno Devi Darshan. This will complete the Vaishno Devi Yatra.
The Main Cave is rarely used now; it’s entrance can be seen while you pass through it. This was the Cave through which pilgrims used to go years ago. It is about 4-5 feet in height and stream of chilled water continuously flows through it – the Charan Ganga said to originate from the Sanctum Sanctorum. However, as the number of pilgrims started to rise, it became difficult to manage. Hence this Cave is used only during lean periods; now two parallel paths are constructed around it which directly take you inside Sanctum Sanctorum. If you are lucky enough, you could get the chance to go through the original Cave.
Inside,
are the 3 rock formations (called Pindis) signifying 3 Goddesses – Maha-Saraswati,
Maha-Laxmi & Maha-Kali. The Pindis are beautifully decorated with golden
crown, ornaments, flowers, red clothing. The view is satisfying. Inside, you
can identify the entrance of the Main Cave coming from the right side. Heavy
gushing sound of water is heard; it is the Charan Ganga originating from here.
After such a peaceful Darshan, we decided to return back. By the time, we got our belongings from the Locker, it was 12 midnight. We started our descend. Walking down is obviously less tiresome than ascending. By 3.30 am we were at the bottom. We took an Auto-Rickshaw for our Hotel (note: Hotel Pick-up is not available between 11 pm to 6 am). We had heard from someone that there are Masseurs available and a Foot Massage is important as it relaxes & frees your leg muscles to relieve for any pain later. These Masseurs are available near Bus Stand and they do the Massage there or also accompany with you to your hotel. The Auto-Driver took us to Bus Stand and we took the Masseur with us to the hotel. It was relieving Massage really. And it really helped. We had the whole Kashmir tour in front of us and we didn’t felt that much exertion.
July 21, 2015:
After
a brief sleep of couple of hours, we left for Jammu, this time by Bus. Regular
buses ply for Jammu from Katra Bus Stand. After getting down at Jammu, we hired
a Taxi, finalized a rate with him as we wanted a special taxi for 4 of us. We
got Tavera for Rs. 4000. Normal rate is Rs. 700 per person (they take
7-8 passengers).
We started at 9 am for Srinagar. Jammu-Srinagar is about 300 kms along the NH-1 highway. First 50 kms till Udhampur is the 2 lane highway with 3-4 tunnels & bridges. It is newly constructed about an year ago. Once Udhampur is crossed, comes the undependable part of this Highway. Next 200 kms till Kashmir Valley starts, the road is a complete Ghat Section with turns all around. High rocky patches on side while deep valley on the other. This road witnesses closure & blockages due to climatic conditions, land-slides in rainy season, vehicle breakdowns causing traffic jams of hours together. So much the undependability, that at times Jammu-Srinagar can be covered in 6 hours while at times, it may take more than 10 hours. We took about 11 hours to reach Srinagar – about 3 major traffic jams in between due to vehicle breakdowns.
We started at 9 am for Srinagar. Jammu-Srinagar is about 300 kms along the NH-1 highway. First 50 kms till Udhampur is the 2 lane highway with 3-4 tunnels & bridges. It is newly constructed about an year ago. Once Udhampur is crossed, comes the undependable part of this Highway. Next 200 kms till Kashmir Valley starts, the road is a complete Ghat Section with turns all around. High rocky patches on side while deep valley on the other. This road witnesses closure & blockages due to climatic conditions, land-slides in rainy season, vehicle breakdowns causing traffic jams of hours together. So much the undependability, that at times Jammu-Srinagar can be covered in 6 hours while at times, it may take more than 10 hours. We took about 11 hours to reach Srinagar – about 3 major traffic jams in between due to vehicle breakdowns.
Enroute Srinagar - NH-1 Jammu Srinagar Highway |
Dam on River Chenaab We had an awesome Rajmaa-Chaawal here at place named Peera |
It comprises of 2 uni-directional tunnels, 2.5 kms each in length. It is well ventilated inside. Open to traffic 24 hours & 7 days a week. Fully under control of BSF. Another tunnel is newly constructed below this one. It is for the Railway Line between Banihaal & Srinagar.
From here starts the Kashmir Valley. Actually, we did feel the change in weather after we crossed the Tunnel; climate was much cooler. From here on one can see the Kashmiri Villages, Snow-capped Mountains far away, smart & beautiful Kashmiri People wearing Phiran (traditional woolen overcoat), Kahwa (tea like drink). And also to mention, the presence of Armed Forces; all through the road, after every few kms, a patrol party comprising 3-4 CRPF Men can be seen.
Road
now is pretty straight; the 200 kms of turns & twists are not here anymore.
The mighty Jhelum on your left indicates that your now entering Srinagar,
capital city of the State of J&K.
We reached Srinagar by 7 pm – almost a drive of 10 hours. Straight we went to our Guest House, since it was late, we were tired & there was nothing else to do.
July 22, 2015:
We
had one acquaintance in Srinagar. He volunteered to accompany us & show us
around. Next morning, he along with his colleague came to our Guest House. He
had made arrangements for a vehicle. We started-off at about 9 am. We decided
to go to Gulmarg. It is a place very near to Srinagar – just an hour’s drive
(40 kms).
Originally named as Gaurimarg referred to the Goddess Paarvati, later on it was rechristened as Gulmarg – literary means “Meadows of Flowers”. It is a vast expanse of pastures further extending towards snow clad mountains. The meadow is World’s highest Golf Course during Summer, while in Winter it get converted into a Skiing Facility. The time we went, it was lush green all over, with colored flowers in between & occasional trees with snow peaks at the backdrop. Emperor Shahajahan is said to have collected various types of Flower Plants from Gulmarg to be used in various Mughal Gardens at places in Delhi & Agra.
Many a films have been shot here – Jai Jai Shiv Shankar song, Jab Tak Hain Jaan song. The room in which the Bobby song “Hum Tum Ek Kamare Mein” was shot at one house here. It is now famous as “Bobby Hut”. The guides show these here.
Temple where 'Jai Jai Shiv Shankar" song was shot |
There is another good option available – a Gandola ride (rope-way). It is one of longest Rope-ways of Asia & highest in World. It is in two stages. Stage-1 is from Gulmarg till Khilenmarg (literary means Playground) which is at the foot of Apharwat Peak (Ticket price is Rs. 600). “Yahoo” song from film “Junglee” was shot at Khilenmarg. Stage-2 is from Khilenmarg to Apharwat Summit (Ticket price is Rs. 800).
Gulmarg is within miles from the LOC. Actually from the Apharwat Summit, they show the Pakistani Posts across the LOC. We actually missed this view by opting for a horse-ride instead of a Gondola. By the time reached back after our horse-ride, it was almost 4 pm. And due to bad weather, Stage-2 was closed.
Nonetheless, we had an awesome time. Some different experience riding a horse to climb little ahead of Khilenmarg. Total distance might be about 7-8 kms one-way. Horses are well-trained. They know the route and they take you properly to the destination; sometime need to give directions by using the reins. The route is scary sometimes; real tough. Heavy climb, rocky patches, slippery paths. But the horses take you extremely well. They take you till the point of snow. The snow here actually is not the one like we see in movies. Actually, it is brown in color due to mud mixed with it. But the view is breathtaking.
We
were just taking few photographs & were planning to walk a little ahead
towards some more snow, when it started raining really heavy. There were some
shacks made to serve tea. All the tourists took refuge there. We had the famous
Kashmiri Drink, the Kahwah, here. It ran heavily for about 20 minutes. Then the
rain stopped abruptly, the way it started. The locals said this is the weather
here all year at this altitude. Due to such unreliability, we decided to get
down at the earliest. We didn’t had any rain protection with us.
We reached the parking at 4 pm. By the end, we were really bored by the horse-ride and wished to reach back at the earliest. It is due to this boredom & time consuming, I feel it is better to prefer a Gondola at Gulmarg. It takes you at much higher altitude, sure-shot to witness good snow; it is time-saving; it will be an awesome experience to travel in one of the highest & longest rope-way as your cable-car disappears in the clouds. My next visit here is going to be a Gondola ride surely.
We had missed a lunch due to our horse-ride. We decided to go back to Srinagar & have an early dinner. Our friend took us to – he said – one of the good hotels of Srinagar, Mughal Darbar, which serves good Wazwan. Wazwan is a food preparation that is Traditional Kashmiri. However, I alone being a vegetarian had to adjust with Paneer. Rice is an important meal here. Raajma-Chawal is a very delicious dish here. Meat is also part of most of the dishes of Kashmir.
After our dinner, we visited Lal Chowk, to have some ice-cream. It has one large Clock-Tower called the Ghanta-ghar. It is the place of extreme significance in History as well as Present of Srinagar (for that matter, the whole of Kashmir). The place is a witness of enormous protests, countless rallies & number of political speeches – in the past as well as today. In a way it is one of the happening places in Srinagar. The Ghanta-ghar can be seen in movie “Haider” (Shaahid Kapoor’s speech).
July 23, 2015:
Next
morning, our plan was to visit Pahalgam, about 90 kms from Srinagar. We started
early at 7.30 am. The route is via Anantnag, the same route we came from Jammu
on NH-1. What all we missed due to low evening light that day, we were able to
see now – the vast Saffron (Kesar) Fields & its shops of Pompore &
Cricket Bat factories. At Anantnag, route bifurcates, one towards Jammu while
another to Pahalgam. Awantipora is another attraction – the remains of an
ancient Hindu Temple. We skipped this due to paucity of time.
Pahalgam is one more tourist destinations of Kashmir located in the Lidder Valley & apart from its scenic beauty, famous because of being on route of Amarnath Yatra. The road to Pahalgam is extremely scenic. After Anantnag, the River Lidder follows last 40 kms route till Pahalgam. The view is extremely scenic - clean white river water with white stones & boulders all around. We reached Pahalgam by 9.30 am. Pahalgam is bigger town compared to Gulmarg. It is a main place for Amarnath Yatra. Helicopter Service for Amarnath is available from here. Nice hotels are available. Good market place is there for a good shopping of Kashmir Special Goods.
There are various spots nearby. Ponies are available here too. They refer to some place called as Mini-Switzerland. However, we were terrified with ponies now. We moved ahead towards Betaab Valley, a place about 15 kms ahead of Pahalgam. The place has got this name from Sunny Deol – Amrita Singh starrer film, “Betaab”. It was shot here – see “Jab Hum Jawan Honge”.
Betaab Valley, as per me, was by far the best location I saw in our trip. Lush green pastures, covered from all sides by mountain ranges (snow-capped at some places) & a stream of ice-chilled water of Lidder River flowing across the plains. The water is sparkling clean (actually it is a melting snow at the top) & awfully chilled. We tried to get into the water (just above ankle length); could not stay inside for more than 15 seconds. The area is converted into a park & is extremely well-maintained. There is cleanliness all around. Place is brilliantly photogenic. There is a nominal ticket price of Rs. 5.
We spent about 3 hours inside. We returned to Pahalgam, had our lunch and again proceeded to Aru. It is lesser known place about 12 kms from Pahalgam. It is situated on the banks of River Aru, a tributary of Lidder. The road to Aru from Pahalgam is an adventure. Very narrow road running by the banks of River Aru & negotiating sharp turns, finally takes you to the Aru. It is actually a place resting in the Lidder Valley.
Aru River |
Shikaaras - characteristic of Dal Lake |
Dal Lake is the life-line of Srinagar. About 1 to 1.5 lakh people are dependent on the Lake. They live on the Lake; their earnings depend on the Lake (tourism, fishing, aquatic plantations, shops, etc). It is said to be about 22 kms in perimeter & forms interlinking with many small lakes & water bodies. Nageen Lake is also one such famous Lake for tourism. Two hillocks over look the Dal Lake – Hari Parbat on one side while Shankaracharya on the other.
Dal Lake with Hari Parbat at the backdrop |
Floating Plantations another wonder of the Lake. Locals here grow various Plants, Vegetables (Cucumber, Pumpkins) & Fruits (Watermelons) over the Lake waters. This is the technique is use since centuries here. These are formed by interweaving the weeds in the water forming mats. Plantations are done on these. It is like a farming done on the surface of water. The produce from these Floating Gardens form a source of livelihood for its farmers.
There is a full-fledged Floating Market on the Lake. From a hair-pin to handloom, everything is available. Shops are set-up actually on the boat. One just needs to get from his Shikaara to the other Shikaara-Shop. Various Shikaaras are moving in the Lake carrying small items like jewellery & vegetable for sale. Even, we saw one Shikaara selling Kedaabs.
Dal Lake is rightfully known as “Venice of the East” and more truly is referred as the “Jewel in the Crown of Kashmir”. It’s for this reason, the Dal Lake with its Shikaara forms the identity of Kashmir world over.
Our ride ended by 8 pm. A brief shopping & dinner followed.
July 24, 2015:
Tonight,
we had our return train to Pune – Jhelum Express (11078) which departs from
Jammu Tawi Station at 9.45 pm. We had some time off; so we decided to visit the
Rahgunath Temple – one of the attractions of Jammu. It is a temple dedicated to
Lord Ram; while has many small temples of other deities in the vicinity. The
temple is located in the market area & is built by Maharaja Gulaab Singh.
Finally, we came to an end of our memorable trip; with a self-promise to visit once again – with a plan to spend more time in Kashmir. We reached Pune on the evening of July 26, 2015.
Maps:
Jammu to Katra - Route Comparison - Road Vs Rail
Jammu to Srinagar
Stay Details: