Goa is synonymous to sun, sea, sand & seafood. Also not to forget, alcohol. Here one can see a nice blend of Indian & Portuguese culture. Number of churches, the structure of houses & lifestyle of people is largely catholic. Goa has always has this aura of something out of Indian; that you won't find elsewhere in India. Post our awesome Ladakh Ride, we were wanting to take another one. Goa was always in my mind as I had never been there; barring once when I was in school, & that should not be counted at all ;-)
November 1, 2017:
After all basic bike preparations, we kicked-off from Pune at 6.30 in the morning. We had decided to take the NH-4 Highway till Kolhapur and then break away for NH-17 via Amboli ghat.
We were 5 of us with 5 bikes (Avenger, Classic, 2 Thunderbirds and a ST7). We decided a meet-up point near Narhe-Ambegaon and proceeded to our onward journey. We took a breakfast stop at Hotel Virangula (before Satara). We covered approx. 80 kms in about 1.5 hours time. Thanks to no traffic due to a weekday. We had sumptuous breakfast of Misal-Pav and hot Tea. After a short break at Karad (80 kms further ahead), we reached Kolhapur; our target for lunch for the day. We had a special Kolhapuri (Tambada-Pandhara) Lunch at Hotel Parakh. With a heavy stomach & much reluctance, we embarked for further ride. We rode about 40 kms more on the NH-4. Entering Karnataka state, slightly ahead of Nipani there is a right turn towards Amboli, Sawantwadi & Goa. This is called as Goa Phata or the Goa Ves. Even there is a hotel by the name Goa Ves; and another as Kaveri.
This was our end to the Highway drive and what we entered was a rustic village setting and small roads. Again back into Maharashtra, we reached Amboli Ghat, leaving villages behind - Uttur, Ajara. Amboli Ghat drive was awesome. Considering the rains that lash this area, the road was fairly good. Scenery around was beautiful. As we descended the Ghat, the road twirled through dense forest area. This was another experience ride of the day. Next big town at the descend of the Ghat is Sawantwadi. Riding along a beautiful lake in the town centre was great. I was not knowing such a beautiful lake exists in between, called Moti Talao, which I came to know later. While riding by its side, I was getting a feeling of Mall Road in Nainital (though in a miniature way). After Sawantwadi we joined the NH-17 (Mumbai-Goa Highway). We crossed into Goa state at Banda checkpost. Further, we actually should have exited before Pernem towards right for Vagator, which was our destination. We even enquired at that place. But we got wrong info. And we moved ahead till Mhapusa and Shivoli and then reached Vagator. Actually we reached Goa by 6.30 pm. About 420 kms in 12 hours. But we took another hour or so reach our destination and to search a stay option. We were able to find an Apartment at very cheap rate; being an off-season ofcourse. Two apartments of two rooms each for two nights - 3000 Rs. Route: Pune-Satara-Kolhapur-Nipani-Amboli-Sawantwadi-Banda-Vagator (Goa)
November 2, 2017:
Next two days were relaxed one's for us. Today was even better as we had nothing to day. Tomorrow, atleast we had to leave Goa in the afternoon. After a lazy breakfast at a local restaurant, we visited the Vagator Beach. However, it was just a small beach but was rocky enough. There was nothing much to do. After a brief photo-op, we started for our planned destination of the day - Arambol Beach.
Djembe hanging at the restaurant
North Goa is famous for its beaches. As you go far inside, the beaches of Baga & Calangute are renowned. However, they are are crowded & commercialised. The one's in this part of Goa (towards the entry point, north most side) are more pristine & relaxed. Hence most of the tourists visiting here, come for relaxation. One can find many foreigners here. Arambol beach is beautiful & serene. It is said to be one of the best beaches of Goa. With shacks on its edge and clean white sand below, this was a great relaxation point for us. Being an off-season, it was not crowded. But whoever we saw here were mostly foreigners. Indians, though very few, started gathering a bit late.
Arambol Beach
The road to the beach goes through the small market in Arambol village. Many shops, mostly of clothes, are lined-up on both sides of road. On the beach, we had a small stroll, walking over the clean sand cutting through the waves. before relaxing into one of the shacks. These shacks are lined-up at the back provided a seating area facing the sea. There were Beach Beds lined-up in front.
Some amongst us went to the sea for a swim; I however, preferred to just sit and enjoy the place with a pint of beer and snacks. We spent the whole day there, with some add-ons of massage & tattoo in between.
By the time the sun moved towards west, the shack employees started to take back the Beach Beds; maybe they started their preparation for the night life. We found that crowd had also increased. While we left, we saw a person playing a guitar.
This was byfar one of the most relaxed vacations of my life. I "actually" did nothing the whole day.
November 3, 2017:
Today, we had to leave Goa for Tarkarli. However, we had planned to visit Chapora Fort prior. But first we had breakfast, again at the same local restaurant. The Fort is named on Chapora River to which it overlooks. Currently it is in ruins, however it was once very strategically important to Portuguese because of its location on northern boundary of Goa. These ruins still provide a very good landscape. And not forget the view it provides from top - Chapora River & beaches of Chapora, Anjuna & Vagator can be seen.
Chapora Fort
Vagator Beach - view from Chapora Fort
The current construction of the Fort is of 17th century by Portuguese, however its history goes back to 15th century when they first came to Goa. Marathas under the rule of Chatrapati Sambhaji did conquer the fort for first time in 1684 and then again in 1737.
The Fort shot to fame due to the Hindi movie "Dil Chahata Hai", so much so that it is still known as "Dil Chahata Hai Fort".
Actually, there is nothing much to see on the fort. Runined fortification surrounds a flat land. However, the view this place provides is breath-taking. It would be even fruitful if you visit in the evenings; however the time mentioned here was upto 5:30 pm. In that case sun-set might be missed.
We spent some time here taking pictures and enjoying the view. Then we retreated to our apartment for final check-out. We started off by 11 am approx. for Tarkarli. This time we took the right route directly reaching between Pernem & Banda on NH-17. We continued till ahead of Chouke; from here there is a left turn to Malvan. Once in Malvan, we had a good Malvani lunch with Sol-kadhi. We reached Visava Resort at Tarkarli by 4.30 pm.
Malvani Lunch
After a cup of tea we were on the beach to enjoy the sun-set. Beach is near to Visava Resort; seems to be a sort of private beach.
Sun-set on Tarkarli Beach
The view on the beach was surreal - with Sun setting in west while Moon rising from east. It was Tripuri Pornima that day. The Moon was looking fascinating.
Morning we started off for Scuba Diving. Tarkarli coast is famous for Scuba Diving; one of the few locations in India. Others are in Goa, Andaman, Lakshadweep, Pondicherry, Karnataka.
Fishermen sorting their catch in the nets planted overnight
Scuba Diving here, is done near the coastline of Sindhudurga Fort. They take through boats to the location. These can be available from Malvan or nowadays, they offer pick-up from some hotels & resorts also. We got one such pick-up from out hotel beach.
About half an sailing and we were at the Sindhudurga. One-by-one, people go inside water after wearing all the related kit - weights, jacket & breathing apparatus. A trainer explains the working and gives a trial. Then he takes you down below. At Tarkarli, they take you about 8-10 feet. Once inside, the environment is phenomenal. It seems as if a whole new world has opened-up. It feels very peaceful. The scene from the film "Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara" appears in front you; and the dialogue which the Heroine says, "Tumhari zindagi badalne wali hai". Sunlight crossing through the vast expanse of blue water and colorful corals below of different shapes & sizes; colorful fish coming in between - it seemed as if live Nat Geo experience. We returned to our hotels, got freshen-up and had lunch. By 3 pm we left Tarkarli for our return journey. We had planned a night halt at Kolhapur (about 160 kms via Gaganbavda). After some Cashew shopping, we made a move. In between, we took a wrong turn before Kankavli and went on Phonda Ghat route instead of Gaganbawda Ghat. And the road ahead was pathetic. It reminded us our Ladakh ride :-) ... its a joke... But the road was bad, it started getting dark, it seemed as if there was forest around, traffic was minimal and the cimate was getting chilly. And over it, one of our riders octopus rope broke; hence we had to drive slowly & carefully. Finally, with all such hurdles, we reached Kolhapur by 9 pm.
अबकि बार, सरहद पार… one of my friends posted this on social media when he flew out of
India for first time. Same applies for this blog too… our first foreign post.
Visiting
Europe for the first foreign trip was in a way awesome. And visiting Italy was
a distinctive destination. This was an incentive foreign tour, fully expenses
paid by my company.
Europe is
famous for its natural beauty – lush green pastures, snow clad peaks in the
background & twirling roads along. Italy is an odd-man-out. While
rest-of-Europe has Natural Splendor, Italy has Man-made Wonders. Italy can so
be called the Heritage Land of Europe – it alone has 51 World Heritage Sites,
maximum in any one country.
Italy, or
Italia, erstwhile Roman Empire, was the Oldest Republic, the Largest Empire
with 2500 years of history, also famous for being birthplace of Renaissance.
February 7, 2017:
We started
from Pune by a Cab for Mumbai Airport drop. We had our Emirates flight from
Mumbai to Venice (layover at Dubai). We reached airport by 10 am. Our group
from all over India had started to gather there. After basic formalities, we
started for our boarding procedure.
February 8, 2017:
Our flight
was schedule for 4 am. We reached Dubai. We had about 3 hours of layover time.
We explored the Duty Free Shopping area just to have a feel, what can be
purchased during our return journey (we had similar layover while returning).
Dubai is a large airport. We had to walk, catch metro to reach terminal &
finally board a 5 mins. bus ride to get up the plane.
We reached
Venice (Venezia in Italian) at 1.30 pm local time (5 pm India time). After
immigration formalities, we boarded our tour bus & headed for lunch at a
local Indian restaurant. Food was awesome. We just loved it. Having such good
local food in a faraway land was splendid experience.
As soon we
landed, we got a taste of discipline through which these people follow. We were
crossing the road, a little sloppily, when a van stopped at good 2 meters
distance. No horn, no inching forward, the driver patiently waited till our
large group passed by. We witnessed such discipline all along our journey
through next week. I didn’t hear a single horn blow. Vehicles followed lane
system. When stopped behind each other, distance between two was almost so that
in India, a bike-walla will ghusao his bike in-between. Even though Cars were
very properly parked.
The Venice
city seemed to have no people staying here. There was no rush on the streets.
By 3.45 pm
we reached our hotel. It was just for a quick freshen-up, as we had to move by
4.45 pm to reach Venice Islands (Lagoons).
Venice
consists of two parts – the famous Islands & the Mainland (called Mestre’
here). We at present were in Mestre’. The airport, our hotel, all the roads
& by lanes are in Mestre’. Island is about 15 mins drive from here.
We boarded
our bus for a drive to Tronchetto, the island at the west of Venice. It is used
as a car park, the last driving point; beyond which vehicles are not allowed.
The pier (jetty) here has Vaporetto (Water Bus, Water Taxi) which are used to
commute within various Venetian Islands.
We got into
one for our ride to Piazza San Marco, the principle public square in Venice. We
started for our evening stroll to Venice Islands, the most Romantic Place in
Europe.
Venice, by
far, is the City of Love & Romance. Decorated with stunning Renaissance
architecture, Gondola rides, narrow canals, magical floating buildings, it’s a
city one is bound to fall in love with. Venice used to be the Summer Capital for
the Kings of the region owing to its cool climate due to its proximity to the
Alps (just 300 kms).
It was
constructed sometime in 4th Century. The locals, to get away from
barbarians’ attacks, came here searching for shelter. They came across 100s of
marshy islands. However settlement on these was impossible. Large no. of wooden
planks, logs were pierced within the marshes. Over this support, tons of stone
boulders, concrete, sand, etc were dumped. And then platforms were built. Over
these platforms, buildings were constructed. As the name given, it really is
the Floating City. There are such 117 islands, forming narrow canals in
between, interconnected with bridges.
Venetian canals
It is a
wonder that it is still intact for the past 1300 years. However, they say,
Venice is sinking 2 mm every year; thanks to global warming.
The
vaporetto ride was chilling. It was just 6 pm, however it had started getting
dark. We were witnessing the illuminated floating islands.
We got down
at Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square). This is dedicated to St. Mark’s
Basilica. It houses the relics of Mark the Evangelist. Saint Mark travelled to
Alexandria (now in Egypt) in AD 49 for spreading Christianity. He is said to
have founded Church of Alexandria & is honored to have founded Christianity
in Africa. Then in 828, Venetian Merchants stole his relics from Alexandria. Alexandria
was ruled by Islamic Caliphate. To avoid any search by the guards, these
merchants covered the relics in a layer of pork. Pork being haram for Muslims,
the guards avoided to inspect the ship closely.
Adjacent
& connected to Baslica is the Doge’s Palace. Doge used to be leader of
Republic of Venice. Doges were elected for life & were shrewdest elders of
the city.
Just behind
the Palace along other island separated by canal is a Prison. There’s a bridge
that connects the Palace & the Prison. It is called Bridge of Sighs. The
legend says that accused after their interrogation & trial in front of Doge,
if convicted, were taken to the Prisons from this bridge. It has windows with
stone bars. This gave the convicts one last view of the beautiful Venice (one
last view of freedom). Following this they would be taken to the cells for life
& may be executed. The name of the bridge comes from suggestion that
prisoners would sigh at their final view of Venice (Freedom). It was from this
prison, the legendry lover Casanova made his famous escape.
Piazza San
Marco comprises of all these buildings with a large open square & a Bell
Tower. This is the prime attraction of Venice. Napolean once called this as the
“Finest Drawing Room in Europe”.
We had a
ride in Gondola, traditional rowing boats of Venice. These boats are the medium
of transportation here for centuries. Vehicles are not allowed in the Islands.
Either walk or use these Gondolas. Even essential services like Ambulance &
Police use boats. We had our “Do Lafzon Ki Kahani” moment – an hour long boat
ride into the canals of Venice.
After our
boat ride, we had a walk along the Venetian bylanes. In the chilling climate,
the market was glittering with colorful light. Name a fashion brand & it
had its shops in these lanes. Milan, fashion capital of the World, is in Italy;
and its influence is seen in other Italian cities. Fashion Brands included
clothes, accessories (bags & purses).
Due to our
packed schedule, we had to miss the day tour to Venice. Normally, whatever we
visited so far has to be seen in the day. Even the monuments were closed – St.
Mark’s Basilica, Doge’s Palace. However, roaming in glittering Venetian bylanes
in the night is not witnessed by many. Normally, people visit in touring season
of summers when sun sets as late as 11 pm. And the beauty of Floating Islands
by the night is generally missed by them.
By 8-8.30,
we started to get back to Mestre. Had Dinner again in Indian Restaurant at 10
& retired to bed (after almost 30 hours).
February 9, 2017:
Morning
after breakfast, we again boarded our coaches. The same route to Tronchetto and
again by Vaporetto, this time to Murano & Burano Islands. The water route
was again same till St. Marks Square; we just passed ahead towards Murano. All
the buildings which were seen sparkling in night yesterday were now visible
with different perspective. And that was awesome.
St. Marks Square (Bell Tower), Doge's Palace, Prison and Bridge of Sighs in between (view from Grand Canal)
Vaporetto ride to Murano
After a 1.5
hours ride, we reached Murano at 10.30 am. Murano Islands are similar to
Venetian Islands, however smaller in size. These are a group of 7 islands.
Murano is famous for its glass making factories. Venetian Glass is famous world
over for centuries. It is made by a unique technique of Glass Blowing. Glass
makers were treated as prominent & respected citizens for centuries, with
secret of Glass Blowing confined within Venice.
Today,
Murano has many Glass Blowing Factories with a showroom attached to it. We went
to one such factory. The Glass Master, as they honor him, showed us a 10 min.
demo on Glass Blowing Technique. It is a sheer hand-crafting; and too at
temperatures of about 2500 deg C. Following this we went through their shop;
purchased a few items & boarded back to our further journey.
Burano is
still smaller with pack of 4 islands. It is further half an hour journey from
Murano. It can be identified with its leaning Bell Tower seen from distance.
There are many buildings in Venetian Lagoon which are tilting (or have even
fallen down tilting) – Pisa is not the only place with a Leaning Tower. This is
due to the history of construction of Venice over marshy islands.
Leaning Bell Tower of Burano
Burano is
famous for its brightly colorful houses. The location is a treat for artists –
painters, photographers. The residents here have to take permission from
administration to paint their houses; they just cannot paint the color of their
choice. Burano is also famous for its Lace-making Industry. The market there
sells these Laced dresses.
After half
an hour troll in Burano, we started for our return journey to Mestre. This
time, we had an Italian Lunch – Pasta & Pizza. By 4 pm, we bid farewell to
Venice & started for Florence. On the way we had a stop at Pisa, to witness
one of the Wonders of World – Leaning Tower of Pisa (my second after TheBeautiful Taj Mahal).
The drive
along the European highway was awesome. The large freeway passed through
Adriatic Plains further crossing to Apennine mountains along Brenta river past
Bologna to reach Pisa. While watching the large expanse of plain land
initially, we had a sleepy drive ahead. We crossed Bologna on the way. It is
known for home to famous Italian Automakers Ducati, Maserati & Lamborghini.
University of Bologna is the oldest in Europe (11th century).
Our actual
plan was to reach Pisa by 4 pm; however, since our delay at Venice, we reached
by 7.30. Here also, we reached in the dark. It was unfortunate that we missed
this beautiful wonder in its fullest grandeur by the day. However, it was
unique that we saw it by the dark, unlike others.
Pisa is a
city in Tuscany region of central Italy. It is a birthplace of Galileo &
most famous for its Leaning Tower.
We
disembarked at the parking. From here the Leaning Tower is about a km away. One
may walk or there is a short Toy Train ride till the main gate. We took the
latter. We reached the main entrance, what is called as Field of Miracles
(Piazza dei Miracoli). It is a group of buildings & structures comprising
of a Cathedral, Baptistry, Clock Tower (Campanile) & a Cemetery. The Clock
Tower is the reason we & maximum of tourists visit this place. It is
renowned as the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
Tower is an
8 storey structure with 55 meters in height. The leaning started during the
construction itself while 3rd floor was completed. This was due to lose
sand below (too soft ground in its foundation). The construction began in 1173
& was completed in 1319 (146 years later) with construction stopped in
between for about 90 years due to Pisans engagement in wars & battles. It
is said that this gap in construction helped in strengthening the foundation.
Weight correction was done once construction resumed as the Tower had started
to tilt. Top floor (Bell Chamber) is constructed in such a way with one side is
taller that other; this is clearly visible. This gives it a curved shape.
During 1990
to 2001, major repair work was carried out – structural strengthening and
surface restoration. The lean was corrected and it said that the life of Tower
is increased by another 1000 years. Earlier lean was 5.5 degrees, now corrected
to 3.99 degrees.
Tower can
be climbed up from inside. There are about 294 steps. Earlier, entry was
unrestricted. Nowadays after restoration, entry is done for a batch of 20
tourists for 20 minutes during the day. Online bookings are required. Since we
reached late, we missed this.
Apart from
the Tower, Cathedral & Baptistry are worth a watch. It is said that the
Baptistry is also tilting, again due to its loose foundation. Because of time
constraint, we had to wrap the visit & could not roam around peacefully.
We had our
dinner at an Indian restaurant. Apart from Punjabi buffet it also had Pizza
& a glass of Wine (Red as well as White), typical Italian Menu. After
dinner, we proceeded to Florence, capital of Tuscany.
February 10, 2017:
Tuscany region
in central Italy is famous for its art & sculpture. World renowned artists,
Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, are from Tuscany. Its capital, Florence, is
regarded as birthplace of Renaissance.
Morning
after breakfast, we started off to explore Florence (Firenze in Italian), a
city of artistic masterpieces. It is believed to have the largest concentration
of Renaissance art & architecture in the world. It is so nicknamed as “art
palace of Italy”.
Florentine bylanes
Our bus
dropped us to a central place & we started our walk. The lanes &
streets of Firenze depict artistic essence all the way. It houses masterpieces
by many artists in its numerous museums (there are 80 museums in Florence).
We started
our tour from Academia Gallery, museum famous for housing one of the most
famous sculptures in the world – David, by Michelangelo. The sculpture is so
real in human anatomy & facial expressions that makes it a breathtaking
masterpiece.
Michelangelo's "David"
The
sculpture depicts biblical scene of battle between David & Goliath. David
was a young shepherd (future Israeli King) who accepts challenge to fight
Goliath, Philistine warrior. David with his sling & 5 stones without even
armor faces heavily armed & powerful Goliath. David flings a stone from his
sling which hits Goliath on centre of forehead making him fall on ground. David
severs his head.
In his
sculpture David is tense, clearly showing fear in his eyes as well as worry
through his twisted eyebrows. However, still the viewer gets a feeling of faith
looking at him. His stance is such that he is relaxed, yet alert, holding his
slingshot in such a way that it is almost invisible. The statue stands with its
full weight on one leg while other leg taken forward for taking a shot. The
bark of dead tree behind one of his legs was provided to give the statue some
stability.
The
sculpture took 3 years to make between 1501 to 1504. Michelangelo was only 26
years of age then. Originally, to be placed over the eastern side roof of
Florence Cathedral, instead it was placed in a public square, Palazzo della
Signoria, on September 8, 1504. Since at that time Florence was an independent
republic, David was installed with his face towards Rome (a rival state) with
his warning glare. Finally in 1873, David was moved inside Academia; a replica
was kept in its place which is still present. There are many such replicas
placed around the city placed over the time.
Apart from
the natural elements, David was harmed by manual attacks too. Political
protesters threw stones at it, it was damaged during an anti-Medici uprising and
a mentally challenged person attacked it with a hammer (damaging its toe).
Apart from David,
Academia displays numerous sculptures & paintings from various artists.
However, due to paucity of time, we spent majority of our time at David &
just quickly glanced through others.
Michelangelo's unfinished sculptures
Further, we
walked to the topmost attraction of Florence, The Duomo (Florence Cathedral).
It is one of the largest churches in the world with its dome being the largest
so far until modern era; it still is the largest brick dome ever constructed.
The octagonal dome is the main attraction of this Duomo. It is by the eastern
side of this dome was the original place for placing the statue of David.
The
Cathedral Complex consisting of the Basilica, Baptistry & Clock Tower is
located in Piazza del Duomo. The structure is huge. It is adorned with white
& green marble designs, sculptures & paintings depicting various
instances from Bible.
The
Baptistry adorns what Michelangelo called “The Gates of Paradise” on its
eastern entry (facing the Duomo). These are a pair of massive gilded bronze
doors which guarded the Baptistry until 1990. These were severely damaged due
to natural elements and pollution, and hence were taken into restoration. What
we see at present is the copy of these doors. The original are preserved in one
of the museums here (Museo dell’Opera del Duomo). Created by
Lorenzo Ghiberti, these took 27 years to complete (also 27 years to restore
later). The doors depict scenes of 10 stories from New Testament.
We walked
towards another attraction of Florence, Palazzo Vecchio (Old Palace). It is the
City’s town hall with a large public square, Piazza della Signoria. This is
where David was installed originally. Apart from the replica of David, there
are many sculptures mounted here. The Piazza also houses an open air sculpture
gallery.
Palazzo Vecchio, Piazza della Signora
Ahead we
passed through short bylanes of Florence towards Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge). It
was the only bridge in Florence till 1218. It is made of stone over the river
Arno. There is a bust of Benvenuto Cellini, great Florentine sculptor. Many
padlocks are seen on this bridge, mainly on the railing of this bust. Lovers
fix these locks & throw its key into the river, thinking that it makes them
eternally bonded. However, this is banned by the administration attracting a heavy
penalty (in Euros).
Arched walkway near Ponte Vecchio
Love Padlocks
From here
we walked towards the Railway Station. We had a Bullet Train to catch to Rome.
Again walking through the Florentine lanes, we reached the station by 11 am. We
had our train at 11.30 am. Our buses had already moved ahead to Rome in the
morning itself carrying our luggage.
This was my
first ride in the Bullet Train. It was different experience. The train covers
about 270 kms in 1.5 hours. The max. speed it reached was 250 kmph. Normally,
one doesn’t feel the speed inside; however at max speed, I felt like having ear
blocks (like in flight).
The train
cruised through the green meadows & beautiful scenes & reached Rome by
1 pm. Coming outside, our buses were waiting for us. We moved for lunch in an
Indian restaurant. On the way, we passed through the iconic Colosseum, identity
of Rome. It is huge & looks beautiful from outside. Tomorrow, we were going
to have a look inside it. Post lunch, we started for Vatican City.
Vatican
City is a country located within a city. It is a smallest country of the world
– area of 110 acres & population of about 800. It is said to be the richest
country per square foot. Home to Catholicism, it is the world’s holiest sites
among Catholics. It is the spiritual centre of world’s Catholics. It is also
world’s most powerful country because of its diplomatic & cultural
influence. The Holy See, which held sovereignty of Vatican City, has diplomatic
relations with almost all countries of the world.
The Pope
(Bishop of Rome) is the Head of Vatican City & ex-officio leader of
Catholic Church. He is believed to be successor to Saint Peter, one of the 12
Apostles of Jesus & the first Pope. Apart from spreading Christianity,
Popes act in resolution of disputes, building interfaith dialogues, charitable
works & defending human rights.
Vatican
City has many religious & cultural sites including many gardens. The
Vatican actually means Garden (see Vaatika in Sanskrit also). There are three
major attractions to see here – St. Peter’s Basilica (with St. Peter’s Square),
Sistine Chapel & Vatican Museums. There is a guided tour of 1.5 hours which
covers these three. To visit here, make sure you cover your shoulders and
knees. This is applicable to men, women & children.
Dome of St. Peter's Basilica - viewed from Museum terrace
We started
from the Museums. Immense collections by various Popes over the centuries are
on display here. Number of Sculptures and Paintings by various artists are on
display. We could see some of them being cleaned & renovated by the workers
here; this would also be a massive work. It is said that the Museums have 70,000
artifacts out of which 20,000 are no display.
Artifacts
are lined on the walls as well as on ceilings with beautiful lightings. We
passed through each room adoring these. One room was dedicated to maps, mostly
of Italy and around. It is the world’s largest geographical study. There are
paintings depicting Biblical stories & stories of Christianity made on
cloth. The frescoes are too beautiful. They are so made that they seem very
real; indeed give a 3D effect.
The Museums
end into Sistine Chapel. After shuffling down walkways of Vatican Museums past
statues, frescoes, crossing a long corridor & a stair, one reaches the
entry to one of the creative explosions; greatest work of art in history, the
Sistine Chapel.
Sistine
Chapel is the part of official residence of Pope. Also, a site of Papal
Conclave, a process of electing new Pope happens here. It is named after Pope
Sixtus IV. However, it is famous for its art by famous artists. It actually is
a Paint-House.
Tapestry (painted
curtains) by Raphael on the walls seem so real, with its pleats. One level
above, adorn the Biblical scenes on the life of Moses & Jesus. A level
above are the paintings of 32 Popes. Beyond this, are the paintings which form
the Ceiling of Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo.
The Ceiling
was painted by Michelangelo between 1508 to 1512 under patronage by Pope Julius
II. The paintings constitute scenes from Book of Genesis (1st Book
of Bible), twelve Prophetic figures, Ancestors of Christ. Creation of Adam is
one such iconic painting with its “hands of Adam & God” being reproduced in
many imitations.
The wall
behind the Altar depicts a large fresco with colorful paintings on blue
background. It is the famous painting of The Last Judgment, again by Michelangelo.
It was painted between 1536 and 1541 under commissioning by Pope Clement VII
& Pope Paul III. The painting is huge, all over the wall with 391 figures
& each one is unique. The painting is all about souls of humans who rise
& descend to their fates as judged by Christ. There is The God in the
centre with all figures surrounding Him. Michelangelo’s Revenge is one such
painting famous for its story.
The
paintings all over create a 3-D effect inside. Photography is prohibited. Even
it is not allowed to talk loudly; the guards do interrupt in case you do so.
But once inside, you agree that this place needs that silence to just look
around peacefully and marinate all the art that is available around onto your
mind. The place is a heaven for artists & historians. It is said that about
5 million people visit here every year to witness the art-fair which is on
display since 5 centuries.
Out of
Sistine Chapel, we moved towards one of the greatest attractions of Vatican,
the place for which Vatican is known & famous for – St. Peter’s Basilica.
It is the largest, the richest & by far the spectacular church in the whole
world. It is said to have been constructed over the tomb of St. Peter. The High
Altar inside the Church is built right above where St. Peter is buried.
Previously
there used to be a Byzantine church built by Constantine (Emperor of Rome) in
349 AD. Over the years it fell apart & construction of Basilica started in
15th century & finished in 1626 (lasted for more than 100
years). The highlight of the Basilica (which now has become the identity of
Vatican), the Dome is designed by Michelangelo; however, he was not alive when
it got completed.
The inside
of Basilica is huge & deep. High Altar is at the far end, with large Nave
to walk towards, flanked by large decorated Columns & Arches on both sides;
there are aisles on extreme both sides. The aisles have number of chapels lined
up. There are about 100 tombs within the Basilica which includes those of 91
Popes & few others like a Roman Emperor Otto II and a Swedish Queen who
converted to Catholicism to name a few.
After the
entry, towards immediate right is another attraction of this place –
Michelangelo’s Pieta. Pieta is the subject in Christianity depicting Virgin
Mary cradling dead body of Jesus Christ. This sculpture by Michelangelo is
unusual as he sculpted a very young & beautiful Mary for a mother of 33
year old son. The emotion of grief is clearly identified on her face & the
flowing garments over her body seem so real. Completed between 1498 to 99, this
is the only artwork by Michelangelo, which he has ever signed. Today the
sculpture is protected by a bullet-proof glass panel.
Michelangelo's "Pieta"
Another
main attraction is the design at the High Altar. With huge Dome above, a 4-pillared
bronze frame designed by Bernini catches the eye. It is exactly above the
burial place of St. Peter’s, serving a holy place. It is said to be largest
bronze structure in world & is made by melting the bronze from the ceiling
of Pantheon (temple in Rome).
High Altar
Once
outside, what you see in front is the magnificent St. Peter’s Square (Piazza
San Pietro). The Square was designed by Lorenzo Bernini. It was laid out
between 1656 to 67. There are two sets of colonnades on either side in circular
form; it is symbolic in such a way that the Church is opening its arms to
welcome you. It has 284 columns with statues of 140 saints over it. At the
centre is the Obelisk (Egyptian column) erected by Emperor Caligula. The Square
was designed by Bernini around it more than 100 years later. Almost every
important square in Rome has an Obelisk; all brought from Egypt by various
Roman Emperors. There are two Fountains between the Obelisk & either
colonnade. And the astounding part is both these Fountains are designed by
different artists at different times. Carlo Maderno designed one Fountain.
Bernini matched another Fountain on other side of Obelisk & designed his
embracing colonnade accordingly.
St. Peter's Square (as seen from the Basilica)
St. Peter's Basilica, Bernini's fountain in foreground
Carlo Maderno designed the façade of the Basilica Over its top are lined 13 statues - 11 Apostles, Christ & John, the Baptist Dome is designed by Michelangelo
This was
the end of our Vatican Tour. Whole experience was as if going inside a Dan
Brown book. After a shopping spree at the souvenir shop, we marched for an
Italian Buffet Dinner. It was an experience; with names of dishes in Italian,
hotel staff not knowing English, no identification of Veg & Non-veg (by the
way Red & Green Dots are only seen in India; here food is food, there is
nothing like veg & non-veg). Me, being a vegetarian, had tough time to
choose & identify. Finally, I had to settle with desserts & ice creams.
Panorama - St. Peter's Basilica, Square & its embracing colonnades
February 11, 2017:
Today we
were to experience the Power City of the world; the oldest Republic & the
centre of the Empire which once ruled the whole world, well almost. In Rome,
they say, the past is always present. The City is full of historical sites
which give an idea to its visitor, about the Empire that was. The Roman Empire
was among the most powerful economic, cultural, political and military forces
in the world of its time. It was one of the largest empires in World history. There goes a saying “All roads lead to Rome”; and it was literally so with its
boundaries surrounding Mediterranean Sea, constituting today’s Britain, Spain,
Italy, Greece, parts of Africa & Asia upto the Middle East. It was said
that about 21% of world’s population then, were Romans.
Castle of the Holy Angel - along the banks of River Tiber
Rome was
founded sometime in 773 BC. Twin baby brothers, Romulus & Remus, were
thought as a possible threat to his rule by their uncle Amulius. He had earlier
displaced his brother, King Numitor, now ordered his guard to kill the twins.
However, the guard didn’t have fortitude to kill the babies and hence he just
left them to die in the forest on the banks of Tiber River. However, the babies
survived. A She-wolf took care of them and nursed them till a herdsman found
them. A She-wolf nursing a pair of human babies is a well known sculpture in
Rome, since it is associated with its history of foundation.
Once
adults, they decided to build a City of their own. However, they had a dispute
in selecting the location. They argued & in turn Romulus killed Remus. He
went on to build the City that he named it as Rome after himself.
Rome grew
slowly & steadily. It was the largest city of the world between the period
100 BC to 400 AD. It was witness to the world events that changed the course of
history – it became world’s first Republic in 509 BC, Julius Caesar was
assassinated in 44 BC (end of Republic era), followed by establishment of Roman
Empire by Augustus, rise of Christianity in 1st century AD, Fall of
Western Roman Empire in 5th century, followed by Middle Ages
(Medieval Period) of 1000 years, Establishment of Papal States in 7th
century AD, start of Renaissance with building of St. Peter’s Basilica in 14th
century AD and then Unification of Italy in 1870 AD.
Post
breakfast, we moved for the show of Time Elevator. It is a 4D-multisensory
technique which takes you back 3000 years in history of Roman Empire. It was
nice half an hour experience going back in time & witnessing the events as
they unfold.
Then we
started with our “Roaming around in Rome” – sight-seeing. Nearby was Monument
dedicated to Victor Emmanuel II, first King of united Italy (1861). It is
largest monument in Rome. It appears gigantic, with wide stairs, large array of
columns at the top, two symmetric statues of Goddess Victoria on each side.
There is an equestrian sculpture of the King Emmanuel at the centre. Also
present here is Tomb of Unknown Soldier built under statue of Goddess Roma. An
eternal flame also burns by its side.
The
monument overlooks a large square, Piazza Venezia. It once served as an Embassy
of Republic of Venice. Hence the name. Italian dictator Mussoloni used to
deliver speed from Palazzo Venezia (Palace of St. Mark – used later as Venetian
Embassy).
Piazza Venezia
Ancient buildings Piazza Venezia, Trajan's Column on right
Piazza
Venezia also has another distinctive architecture, Trajan’s Column. It was
built by Emperor Trajan. It is a victory column which has the sculptures
showing the events from war between Romans & Dacians. It is said that the
column served like a newspaper – all events happening at the war were carved on
the column run-time, which helped the citizens to understand war news.
Trajan's Column
Trajan's Column, with Monument of Victor Emmanuel II in background
Post lunch
we visited the Colosseum, another Wonder of World. This was our 2nd
in a single trip. Colosseum is an amphitheatre & was used for gladiatorial
contests watched by Romans as a part of public entertainment. It was built by
Emperor Vespasian, with its construction started in 72 AD & completed in 80
AD. It still is the largest amphitheater ever built. It is oval in shape &
with seating capacity of about 45,000. The number was much less than the total
population of London which was just a village at that time.
Gladiators who
contested with each other or with wild animals were the slaves captured by
Romans from faraway lands. It was their destiny to fight & live, until one
is killed by another. Romans used to pay to watch these fights / games.
Gladiators were spilling blood in the name of entertainment for centuries. But
people of Rome were eager for bigger & bolder exhibition. Colosseum became
their permanent & state-of-the art killing field. Colosseum also displayed
naval battles. It had a mechanism to fill-in & drain-out bottom floors with
water from aqueducts of Rome. Colosseum was in use for such spectacle till 6th
century.
Below the
main platform used to be the Hypogeum or under-stage (like a back-stage in case
of Plays & Dramas). This was the place where Gladiators awaited for their
turn to go up the platform for a fight. Wild animals were caged here. Prisoners
who were to be executed also awaited their turn. The place had mechanized lifts
& trap doors to enable the fighters & animals to suddenly appear on the
battle arena.
The entry
to the Colosseum used to be from many Arches at the ground floor. These arches
were numbered in Roman script (seen even today) and like today’s stadiums,
patrons could only enter inside with a ticket having numbers printed on them. Going
through the arches, there is intricate network of corridors & staircases
which take you to the relevant floor for watching the games. There were 140 drinking
water fountains & 2 restrooms. There used to be a mechanism of retractable
roof using curtains, wooden poles & ropes. The curtains could slide towards
inner side as per the position of Sun providing required shade for the viewers.
Mounting holes can be seen from outside surrounding the outer walls at the top.
There are
remains of structure outside the Colosseum on the other side of the present
road. It is believed to be the remains of the local shops selling food &
goods items during the games.
Once
inside, the seat arrangements can be seen encircling the central arena. At the
centre once used to be a sand covered platform. Today what we see are the
remains of Hypogeum.
Hollywood
movie “Gladiator” have shown Colosseum in its actual use.
Its usage
as a fight arena stopped after 6th century. It was severely damaged
during a massive earthquake in 13th century. The damage to its outer
wall can be still seen today. The stones which stumbled were used to construct
other buildings in Rome elsewhere. Construction of Colosseum was such that stones
& marble was fixed using bronze clamps over concrete & sand. Over the
time, these stones & marble were stripped down & were used elsewhere.
The bronze clamps were hacked out of the walls by robbers causing numerous scars
to the building.
By the side
of Colosseum, is the Arch of Constantine. It is a triumphal arch constructed to
honor the victory of Emperor Constantine I in the year 315 AD.
There is
one more archeological site near Colosseum, which was at one point the centre
of Roman public life – Roman Forum (or just Forum). It is located between
Palatine & Capitoline Hills. It was site where victory marches took place,
public speeches & criminal trials happened. This is the place where people
met & discuss; this is the reason why the online discussion places today
are called Forum.
Roman Forum
It is a
vast rectangular expanse excavated over time, located in middle of today’s modern
Rome. The structures included places where the Senate met, Judicial buildings.
There are remains of multiple Temples (of Saturn & Vesta) and Arches. Julius
Caesar was burnt here (Temple of Caesar). Majority of buildings were demolished
in 410 AD during sacking of Rome. Over the years, during Middle Ages, The Forum
collapsed & got buried under earth & debris. It was only in 19th
century, the excavation started.
From here
we boarded our bus towards Circus Maximus, big brother to Colosseum. Prior to
Colosseum becoming the venue for entertainment for Romans, Circus Maximus was
the place for Chariot Races. It is shown extensively in Hollywood blockbuster,
Ben Hur.
Situated
between Palatine & Aventine Hills, it was said to accommodate 250,000
people – a quarter of Rome’s population at that time. It was built much before
Colosseum in 6th century BC.
Circus Maximus Ruins
of Imperial Palaces on Palatine Hill in background
This ended
our discovery of Rome for today. We had a Gala Dinner lined-up, being our last
night in Italy.
February 12, 2017:
Today was
our Day-2 for Roman Exploration. We got down from our bus near a place called
Spanish Steps. These were built by French in Italian city of Rome; truly
Globalization. These are called so because of Embassy of Spain located nearby.
And so that square at the bottom of Spanish Steps is called as Piazza di
Spagna. The area is also known for great English poet John Keats, who lived
here.
Here we
came across the first fountain of Rome, Fontana della Barcaccia (Fountain of
Ugly Boat). This is a 16th century fountain designed by Bernini.
Rome is
famous for its number of Fountains; almost every major piazza in Rome embellishes
a fountain. Water for these fountains comes from several Aqueducts. Romans
constructed these to bring water from distant sources into cities & towns
through gravity. Some among these are the source of pure drinking water even
today. Even after so many centuries, the water is still flowing from these
adorning the beauty of the fountains.
We walked
towards another beauty of Rome – it seemed for me as one of the most beautiful
places in Rome – Trevi Fountain. It is a giant fountain with extravagant façade
located at junction of three roads (hence the name). It was constructed in 17th
century, designed by Nicola Salvi. It represents a scene from story of Romans
locating a source of pure water to ancient Rome. For me, it is the most
beautiful place I saw in Rome.
The
fountain became an eminent attraction in Hollywood movie of 1950s, Three Coins In The Fountain. The movie
had a plot where the three women characters throw coins in to the fountain
waters to fulfill their wish to return to Rome. This movie made this coin
throwing tale as a perpetual ritual for anyone visiting Trevi Fountain. Approx.
3000 Euros are collected in the fountain daily; these go to charity. It is a
crime to steal coins thrown inside.
We walked
towards Pantheon, considered to be oldest temple still in good shape. It is
almost 2000 years old. Formerly a Roman Temple, it was later converted into a
Church in 6th century. The present building was built some time in 2nd
century AD by Emperor Hadrian. Previously, on the same site, there was a temple
built by Emperor Augustus which was burnt in a fire.
Front
façade with rows of large Corinthian columns and a cylindrical building behind
(rotunda architecture) makes this a unique building; also not to forget a large
dome at the top with an oculus (central opening). The building displays its
ageing which is result of weathering as well as damages by humans (its bronze
fittings were ripped off).
Once inside
through the massive bronze doors, the space opens up in vast circular expanse.
Beautifully decorated dome is with oculus in centre. Altars & Chapels are
lined-up around the circle. Pantheon is a site of burial of important people –
painter Raphael, two kings of Italy Emanuele II & Umberto I.
Front of
Pantheon is graced with a fountain & surmounted by an Egyptian obelisk.
Next was
Piazza Navona, one of the important public squares; I felt it to be one of the
most happening places in Rome. It is an elegant square with a lively
marketplace, glitzy fountains and European architectural buildings. Artists
performing live music, doing live paintings (& selling them) adds a sparkle
to the surroundings. Restaurants lined around the perimeter provide an
opportunity to sip a coffee & have Pizza while you enjoy this Piazza.
The Piazza
is elliptical in shape. This is because it was built on a 1st
century AD Stadium of Domitian. It was used for athletic contests & could
occupy 15 to 20,000 people. Piazza Navona with its 3 fountains & church
were made later in 16th & 17th century.
Central
fountain and a Church behind are the main attractions of Piazza Navona.
Fountain of the Four Rivers designed by Bernini showcases 4 River Gods. They
represent major rivers of 4 known continents of the time – Nile (Africa),
Danube (Europe), Ganga (Asia) & Rio de la Plata (America). It was a moment
of pride to see our Mother River, which we Indians have been worshipping, was
selected by Bernini representing Asia in the 15th century. River God
of Rio de la Plata is shown as fearing the façade of Church of Sant'Agnese. The
Church was designed by Barromini, rival of Bernini. Tall Egyptian Obelisk is
mounted on the rock centrally. There are two more fountains at each end –
Fountain of Neptune & Moor Fountain – making this Piazza one of the most
beautiful architectures.
River God of Ganga, with Church of Sant'Agnese in background
This was
our end to the Roman Holiday. Rome has a history of 2500 years, it is said to
be one of the oldest inhabited places. We spent about two full days to roam
around in Rome. Hopefully, we covered important sites, though may not all; and
also spent considerable time in important one’s – Vatican & Colosseum.
Rome, they
say, was not built in a day & it can’t be seen in one either. Rome is a
city best severed slowly like a glass of wine. And in case you miss something
to see, toss a coin into Trevi Fountain for a guaranteed visit to Rome one more
time.
