Monday, 31 October 2011

Klassic Konkan - October 27 / 28 / 29, 2011

It was a long as well as planned family trip. Since Sneha was getting married in November, we decided to visit our Kula-Daivats in Konkan togethor. We were 5 of us plus Arnav. Hence we hired a Tavera instead of our car.

We set off on October 27, 2011 morning 6.15 and took the old Satara Road from Swargate. Our first pit-stop was Shri Ram Wade-wale at Shirwal, obvious and unanimous choice.

There are 3 routes to Konkan on that stretch that I was aware of. One the most famous Varandha Ghat road via Bhor. Second the Mahabaleshwar route. And third just before Karad (from Umbraj) via Kumbharli Ghat, Koyananagar.

We took the 4th one, known to Satish Kaka, our Driver. Just after Karad take exit from NH-4 on left and the road goes from below the highway towards right to Ratnagiri. It is the road via Kokrud and Aamba Ghat.
View from Aamba Ghat

By 1.00 in afternoon, we stopped for Lunch at a place called Warool (वारूळ). It was a place that served home cooked food, rice-plate.

16° 57' 06.22" N   73° 51' 57.29" E

After a brief tea-stop at Pali at 3.30 pm, we reached Karhateshwar (कर्हाटेश्वर) by 5.00 pm. Karhateshwar is our Kul-daiwat (our family deity). It is situated near the village called Nandiwade (नान्दिवडे).
17° 17' 18.00" N   73° 13' 15.74" E
Karhateshwar - Shiv Linga
Karhateshwar Temple
वार्‍या-वरती गंध पसरला नाते मनाचे
माती मध्ये दरवळणारे हे गाव माझे
Nandiwade was our native village where our (Bhogale's) fore-fathers used to live about a century back. They mortgaged everything and came down to Pune for work and settled down here. Visiting this place was nostalgic. Especially when I knew that this was our real native. I felt somewhere connected to it.

I had visited here with family about 15 years back (of course my wife and son were not there; my grandmother was there though)

There was a major make over. Except the Temple and the Go-mukh below, every thing has been changed - from its surroundings to the access road. Will post that old snap later after I scan it.

Now there is this big coal based Power Plant by JSW developed here resulting into major change in this area.

Came across this on a websiteShri Narayanbhau Jog, a Ramdasi, has described the place in these words --> 
The deity of Karhateshwar rests at this beautiful lonely place, at whose feet the roaring sea is there for ever.

After taking the darshan we went downwards towards sea. There is this Go-mukh (गोमुख) where sweet water flows all year round. And this is just 10 meters away from the salty sea water.

Further we went to Ganpatipule (गणपतिपुळे). The route we took from via Malgund was beautiful; it was a coastal road with seashore on side of the road.

We had done the booking for our stay at MTDC. The resort is nice. Its USP is its location --> Next to the Ganesh Temple by the beach. When we entered our room, the view from the balcony was awesome. If you lose on to the service, MTDC scores on its location, room conditions, toilet cleanliness, etc. (17° 08' 50.26" N   73° 16' 00.98" E)

We had dinner at "Bhau Joshi's Bhojanalaya (भाऊ जोशी यांचे भोजनालय)". They serve Maharashtrian food not in a Rice Plate manner, but separate vegetable dish manner (A-la-Carte). Taste was excellent, and very cheap.

Next morning at 6 we reached the beach for a stroll. The early morning blue sky with the pink temple was looking awesome.

Ganpatipule beach

Pink Jewel

प्रदक्षिणा मार्ग
We returned back to our rooms by 7. By 9.30 am we went for the Darshan. There is this Pradakshina Marg (प्रदक्षिणा मार्ग) which is made around the hill. This is about 1.5 kms. Normally we take this प्रदक्षिणा around the diety or the sanctum sanctorum. This is something unique about this place.

After this darshan and a breakfast of Pohe we proceeded for Pracheen Konkan - this is sort of an exhibition depicting lifestyle of Konkani people in early days.

It is worth watching the near human sculptures within the blanket of thick and green trees; ticket of mere 15 Rs per person, with a guide explaining about the whole history for a group of 8-10 people. However it will be tire some for elderly, since the terrain is hilly.

From here we proceeded towards Guhagar (गुहागर). Ideally to go to Guhagar, one has to take the complete round over the Bhatgaon of about 120 kms due to the Jaigad Creek.

However, Satish kaka inquired about the possible ferry service from Jaigad Jetty which might be useful for us to go to Guhagar.

There is one ferry from Jaigad to Tarsaal (तरसाल) and then to Guhagar via road. This reduces the road travel to 30-40 kms.
We reached Jaigad jetty by 11.00 am, put our Tavera in the ferry and moved towards Tarsaal.

From Tarsaal we started our road journey to Guhagar. Enroute we took a stop at Hedvi (हेदवी), a Ganesh Temple. It is the idol with 10 hands - Dashbhuj (दश-भुज). Its a very small temple, but very beautiful.
दश-भुज गणेश, हेदवी
After the darshan, we marched towards Guhagar and reached by 1 pm for lunch. We had it at Hotel Suruchi (near Vyadeshwar temple, on the main market road). Phone nos are: 9421137937, 9420051737. Food was nice - rice plate Maharashtrian thali. They serve Ukdiche Modak based on prior orders. Stay facility is also available (; we had already booked our stay at Hotel Rajgadh from Pune itself. I had searched the accommodation through internet. Some of the details are below:

Hotel Rajgad       02359240524      We stayed here.
                       9028813334, 8975009848, 9764665775

Hotel Kautilya     9423048234        But they do not take advance booking

Hotel Nilambari   9423048250

We stayed at Rajgad. Was kind of an OK place. The beach side cottages were actually awesome, but we didn't got them. They were occupied. They also had a dining area where tea, breakfast and meals were served (Veg / Non-veg).

After a nap for about couple of hours and a cup of tea, we set for Velneshwar. This is about 20 kms from Guhagar. A Shiva temple and a Beach.
Sunset on Velneshwar beach

Velneshwar temple
By 6.30 pm we turned back and reached Guhagar. We visited Vyadeshwar Temple. It is right in the town. Then we went to Durga Devi Temple, again in Guhagar a bit away from main market place towards Dapoli road.

Durga Devi temple
In the morning we moved towards Pune. We decided to take the Chiplun route so that we can go to Derwan (Shiv-Srushti) and Parshuram on the way.

After a brief stop at Derwan, we reached Parshuram. Here we need to descend about 100 steps to reach the temple. On both sides there are shops that sell Pooja items, Kokan Mewa (eatables), toys, Lunch Homes. We had our lunch at one such place - Pethe Vishranti Griha. Nice taste.

Vaasishthi River - a view from Parshuram Ghat, Chiplun
Parshuram temple

From here we headed for home. We left Parshuram at 2.00 pm. By 8.00 pm we were at our house.

Odometer readings are:
Day 1
0            Pune City (Narayan Peth) – we took the NH-4 (Satara Road) from Swargate.
50          Shirwal (Shri Ram Wada Pav) – via Nasarapur, Kapurhol
152        Karad toll
167        Bridge on river Koyna
169        Paachwad phata – take exit (to Left) from NH-4 – towards Right under the bridge – there is a board for Ratnagiri just prior to this exit (this Paachwad is apart from the one which is just before Satara). This is SH-80 to Ratnagiri.
              Villages like Ond, Undale, Y joint; take Right, another Y joint; take Left, Yelapur.

200        Shedgewadi, take Left, join SH 111.
206        Kokrud – take Right towards Malkapur and Ratnagiri.
208        Y joint; take Right ascend towards bridge on Warana River – straight will go to Kolhapur.

223        Malkapur – Kadvi River – Take Right on a T joint – Left will go to Kolhapur.
241        Aamba ghat – NH 208 – this ghat is of about 17 kms.
287        Pali – on NH-17 (Mumbai-Goa Highway) – not the one with Ashtavinayaka near Khopoli and Pen.

298        Hathkhamba phata – ahead of Hathkhamba village – straight goes to Ganpatipule, Chiplun, Jaigad – Left goes to Ratnagiri, Pawas.

302        Nivali Phata – Y Joint – Left goes to Ganpatipule, Jaigad – Right to Chiplun – SH 106

              Jakadevi, Chafe
350        Karhateshwar
              While returning back for Ganpatipule, on the same road before Chafe, comes a Y joint – Left will take back to Chafe and Jakadevi (from Chafe also one can go to Ganpatipule) – Right will take to Ganpatipule via Malgund – villages like Varvad, Reel, Tiwari Bunder will follow before Malgund. This road is better compared to the earlier one via Chafe; as this is along the coast line and hence is very scenic.
375        Ganpatipule – MTDC

Day 2

375       MTDC
397       Jaigad jetty
397       Tavsal
408       Hedvi.
433       Guhagar
454       Velneshwar (via Palshet, Adoor).
477       Guhagar (returned back - same route)

Day 3

491        Shringar Tali – SH-78 (Chiplun – Patan Highway)
504        Marga Tamhane
509        Rampur
516        Malghar – take a Right turn on a Y-section (Ganesh-khind phata) on an ascend for Derwan (this is a short-cut) – straight will take you to Chiplun on NH-17

520        another Y section after Kharwate – take Left
523        Dahiwali
530        NH-17 (Mumbai-Goa Highway) – take Right
              Savarde village – take immediate Left – Board for Shiv-Srishti, Derwan is available – also board for Walawalkar Hospital is available.

533        Derwan – Shiv-Samartha Gad (Shiv-Srishti)
              Same route return – take Right on NH-17 towards Chiplun.
552        Chiplun - Bridge on River Vaashishthi - Parshuram Ghat starts
564        take a Right ascend on a Y section towards Parshuram at the top of the Ghat
565        Parshuram – same route return towards Chiplun
              Take Left after Vaashishthi river bridge - straight goes to Ratnagiri, Right goes to Chiplun city.
              Kherdi, Shirgaon, Pophli, Kumbharli Ghat (20-22 kms)
              Y section after the ghat ends – take Left – straight is a Koyanagar bypass, but road is not good enough and we wanted to have a cup of tea at Koynanagar that would not have been possible by that bypass road.

637        Patan
              Malharpeth – then a toll booth – take Left for Umbraj for going to Pune; straight goes to Karad (both on NH-4).
665        Umbraj – join NH-4 (Mumbai-Bangalore Highway) and take Left.
809        Pune City (Narayan Peth).

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  1. Really amazing place, I like it.

    I must say the once you visit Tarkarli beach It is world famous white sand beach in India

  2. Thanks for those lovely beach pictures. I came across your post while searching for Narwan and Palasdani in Ratnagiri. After reading your posts, I once again plan to go to Ganapatipule, one of my fav destinations for vacations. Thanks again. Add me to your list and keep us posted about your other travel experiences.

    1. Thank you. Felt nice that you liked the post & it was helpful to you.

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