Saturday, 20 April 2019

National Defense Academy – Cradle of Indian Military Leadership


NDA as it is generally referred as, National Defense Academy is the World’s first Tri-Services Academy; combined academy for Army, Navy and Air Force. It was established immediately after India’s Independence; plans of which, however, were conceptualized some time during the 2nd World War in British India. A Joint Services Wing (JSW) was established in 1949 at Dehradun which was later shifted to Khadakwasla near Pune in 1954, which we now know as the NDA.
Motto: सेवा परमो धर्मः
(Service Before Self)
Students, referred as Cadets, are selected after their 12th standard through an examination conducted through UPSC. There are some entries through NCC also. There are feeder academies like RIMC (Rashtriya Indian Military College) and Sainik Schools (e.g. Bhosala Military School, Satara) where the students are prepared for their entry into the NDA.

Cadets come from all walks of life, irrespective of their caste, religion, financial situation and societal status. Selection happens only on based on merit of the individual; no recommendations work here. Student displaying high amount of OLQs (Officer Like Qualities) have a potential to become an Officer. About 30,000 students participate for examinations every term (every 6 months), approx. 3000 get selected for SSB (Service Selection Board) stage. Only 300 among them are selected as NDA Cadets; about 40 among them for Air Force, while 20 to Navy.

At the end of their 3 years (6 terms) at NDA, Cadets go for further specialized training in their respective Academies – Army Cadets to Indian Military Academy (Dehradun), Air Force Cadets to Air Force Academy (Dundigal, near Hyderabad) and Naval Cadets to Indian Naval Academy (Kerala).

Cadets when come to NDA, are from multiple locations across India. They speak different languages. But after their 6 terms in NDA they walk out speaking the one language – Language of The Forces; with only one aim à to protect India from external as well as internal threats. Since Cadets from all three Forces from various parts of India train together, they make a bond for life. It serves as a significant prologue to continued tri-service camaraderie and esprit-de-corps. The Senior-Junior and Peer Relationships are sustained till eternity.  Ex-NDA remains an identity for these Officers when they are commissioned in their respective Units and even beyond after they retire. The Squadrons and Battalions assigned to them after their entry into NDA, remains with them for life.

There are 18 Squadrons (from A to R – Alpha, Bravo, …, Quebec, Romeo). These are further divided into 5 Battalions. Cadets stay in the buildings of their respective Squadrons. They come from different regions, speak different languages, and have varying abilities. But they bond in their Squadron where their camaraderie is forged. The Squadron spirit is inculcated and nurtured throughout their stay. They fight a healthy competition to keep the name of their Squadron flying high.

This bond and respect within each other make these Officers such that they are ready to even die for their Seniors’ Orders (Supreme Sacrifice). These Officers are made to toil hard during their tenure. They are made to do all kinds jobs and activities which may be required during hostile situations in war. An Officer would never order a task to his Jawans which he himself cannot do. They are taught to lead by example. That is the reason Indian Army is one of those dignified Armies in the World that has high number of injuries and casualties of Officers during an Operation or War. They lead from the front.

Cadets receive a basic degree of B.Sc. They are taught Science, Maths and multi linguistic (foreign languages) subjects. They are taught about Table Manners and Etiquettes as well. Then there is a hard-core training of the Forces and then their specialization (Army, Navy or Air Force). Cadets are molded into Officers at the end of their 6th term, ready to take on any challenge.
STD Booths for Cadets to speak with their families
Heritage India had arranged a visit to this iconic Academy. And to add up to the party, was presence of Major General Rasquinha as our guide. All the information which is mentioned in this blog is because of his immense knowledge and experience.

We started from Pune at 9 am and reached the Tri-Shakti Gate of NDA by around 10 am. Tri-Shakti Gate was constructed in 2006 to mark the Golden Jubilee celebration of NDA. This is symbolic for being a Tri-Services Academy.
After basic entry formalities and a photo-op, we entered inside. This was moment of pride for us. Most us were first one’s entering this iconic institute of National Importance.
Tri-Shakti Gate



We directly went for the Equitation Training Team – in simple terms Horse Riding. The basic idea of Horse Riding Training is that, if you can control an animal, you can very well handle tough situations and command men under you. There are various genres of Horse Riding - Lane Lumping, Dressage, Cross Country, Bare-back riding. There are about 175 horses. There is also an Indoor Riding Arena which is useful during rainy season.
Horse-Shoe shaped Entrance -
a befitting symbol for the Equitation Training Team
Memorial of the Horses

Inside a stable
This ETT is managed by 61st Cavalry Regiment of Indian Army. This is World’s only operational Cavalry Unit. They form the President’s Body Guard, which we see every year during Republic Day Parade.

From here we went to Habibulla Hall. It is named after the first Commandant of NDA. It is an auditorium cum Stage of the NDA. Multiple functions happen here, apart from movie screenings. They showed us a film by Discovery about NDA and life of the Cadets. This film further imparted us with many insights. The same building also houses a Museum at the back which displays mementos and medals received from other Countries.
Inside Habibulla Hall
Friendly Countries whose Cadets are also trained here
Next to this Hall is the main building of NDA, the Sudan Block. It is the main administration building and houses the Office the NDA Commandant at the top floor. Sudanese Government had donated some amount to the British Indian Government as a token of gratitude in exchanged of the Army’s support in its Liberation. This money was utilized in building of the NDA. Hence the name Sudan Block.
Sudan Block
The Sudan Block is the iconic symbol of NDA. Colossal Dome at the top and lined-up arches below making a giant façade appears this building to be vastly spread out. Line of steps takes you to the main entrance at the centre of the arch-line. Above are Four Flags slanted up (Army, Navy, Air Force and of NDA). Massive insignia of the academy on both sides catch the eye.

View from the platform (after climbing the steps) down below is awesome. The straight road running down with trees on both sides and an Ashok Stambha at the cross-road in between reminds of the Raj Path running from Rashtrapati Bhavan in Delhi.
View from the platform -
Ashok Stambh, road running down straight
with Fort Sinhagad at the backdrop
Inside the building, below the Dome is the memorial of all those Officers (ex-NDA Cadets) who laid down their lives in service of the Nation. Also, there is the list of awardees who received Param Veer Chakra, Ashok Chakra, etc. Photography is not permitted here.

From here we went to see the Cadet’s Mess. This is another highlight of the Academy after Sudan Block. This is said to the Asia’s largest Mess wherein 2100 people can sit at a time. This is one of exclusive symbols of solidarity and brotherhood among Cadets; where they break the bread together. Veg and Non-Veg seating is identified. Made to order food is also served; and mind-you within the super strict time schedule. Table manners and eating etiquettes are taught to the Cadets here.


The interior, with RED as the highlight color, is mostly a wooden structure with a Peshwai Style of structural design. The Pillars are mounted with photos of the President of India, the NDA Commandant and the Three Chiefs of Armed Forces. Also decorated with flags of the friendly countries whose Cadets are also trained here. Aesthetically mounted are the weapons, Squadron Flags, Paintings and Banners.

Also lined-up are the frames of the Menu prepared during each of the guests who visited this Mess – like Heads of State of various Countries. During Passing-Out-Parade of the Cadets after their 6th term, their parents get an honor to have food in this Mess with them.

At the entrance is an empty table with a chair leaned on it. On the table a dish is laid out and a rose and a candle is kept. This is in remembrance of those NDA Alumni who are listed as Missing In Action (MIA). The Academy still awaits their return to their motherland. This was unique and a gloomy moment.

Photography is not allowed inside the Mess as well.

This was the end of our half day NDA visit. Post lunch at the Cafeteria, we moved for our return journey by 2 pm.

Pune is renowned for many heritage sites and modern architecture. However, every Indian visiting Pune should pay a visit to this Heritage of National Importance which is truly the Cradle of Indian Military Leadership. Visitors can visit NDA on Sundays. Details are provided in their website here.

Jai Hind

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Location: NDA Pashan Rd, Pune, Maharashtra, India

Sunday, 7 April 2019

An Epic Ride - Kanyakumari to Kashmir - November 2018

They say, "Life ain't always beautiful, but it's a beautiful ride". And, we experienced such that week.

 Me, with a friend, completed an epic bike ride covering entire India from Kanyakumari to Kashmir. Kiran had a plan in his mind and he pursued with me relentlessly to make it into a reality.

 Our journey was from the Gushing Waves of the Tri-Sea at Kanyakumari to the Serene Waters of Dal Lake in Kashmir (Srinagar). These 4000 kms gave us the glimpse of India. We passed through 12 States, crossed about 29 Rivers, stayed in 7 cities / towns.

 We must have passed from 100s of villages and towns; villages with unique, funny names. Names which identify the Regions. Names end with "Halli" in Karnataka, "Palli" in Tamil Nadu and "Patti" in Andhra / Telangana; with 'Pur' most common in North. There were funny names of villages in Punjab and Haryana - 

 A diversity that highlights India is its Food. Our experience to local cuisines started the moment we reached Kanyakumari. As we started to move Up North, Idli changed to Biryani and then to Paranthas & Rajma while Coffee changed to Tea, Lassi and finally Kahwa. We truly experienced the Taste Of India on those 4000 kms.

Another diversity is the religions, for which our country is renowned for - Kanyakumari has a Memorial dedicated to Swami Vivekananda, a Hindu Monk. Taj Mahal at Agra is a Jewel of Muslim Art in India. The Golden Temple is a holiest shrine for Sikhs - अठ सथ तीरथ (shrine of 68 pilgrimages).

 All this while, what was continuously with us all the way was the NH-44, India's longest highway - the North-South Corridor of Golden Quadrilateral. It is also known as Kanyakumari-Srinagar Highway. The highway showed the level of development that have happened in the country. Complete highway is a 4 lane road with divider, made of tar. There is emergency telephone booth at every 300 meters. Truck lay-bye is available every 3-4 kms. Signage in English & a Local Language are provided. We crossed about 46 Toll Booths all the way; for us however, it was Toll Free journey, being on 2-Wheeler. Our ride through this Road took us a bit closer to the our Country and its People. We watched a lot from the seat of our bikes all those days - People, Villages, Nature, Development.
After some detailed planning of the route and possible stops, we decided our visit dates coinciding with Diwali in November to manage office leaves. Flight tickets were booked from Pune to Trivandrum and Jammu to Pune. About 10 days were marked for the trip with actual 6 riding days. 1-2 days were kept as buffer. Actually, we were planning to explore to Gurez Valley in Kashmir, which we cancelled later considering snowfall and road closure news.

 We transported our bikes by train till Kanyakumari. And then the day came, after which we were going to attempt something, not many have done. On the midnight of November 7, 2018 we had our flight to Trivandrum with a lay-over in Bangalore. With some brief rest at Bangalore Airport Lounge and very early morning breakfast at 4 am, we reached Trivandrum at 7 am. We took a State Transport Bus for Nagarcoil and another one to Kanyakumari. We reached Railway Station by around 12 noon. We took our bikes into our custody and then searched for a hotel.

 In the evening we ventured off for local sight-seeing. Vivekananda Rock Memorial being highlight of Kanyakumari, we went to see this first.
Tri-Sea Confluence - Panorama

 One needs to go by a Boat; return fare is taken at the window. Takes about 10 mins. to reach the Rock. The Rock is an island in a Tri-Sea - confluence of three Seas of Indian Peninsula, The Indian Ocean, The Bay of Bengal and The Arabian Sea. Swami Vivekananda is said to have achieved enlightenment on this Rock. A Dhyana Mandapam is erected which is the Memorial dedicated to Swami-ji. There is his life-size statue inside. Apart from memorial, there is a Temple dedicated to Goddess Kumari, where her foot-print is believed to have impression on the rock.
We were at the bottom-most point of the Indian Peninsula.

 On a small island by the side is a Statue of Thiruvalluvar, a Tamil Poet and Philosopher. It is comparatively a recent development, unveiled on January 1, 2000.

 Then we went on to see the Gandhi Mandapam, a place where Mahatma Gandhi's ashes were kept in an urn for public viewing before immersing them into the Tri-Sea.

 From here, we went to a place from where the NH-44 starts. Start of a road from lower most point of India.
NH-44 starts from here (seen in the background)
Day-1, Start of the Ride:
We started off by around 5.45 am. The night we spent with some fear and apprehension. It rained heavily at 9 pm; and that made us worried. It was something we were trying to achieve and were not sure whether we can do it and then these rains...

 Morning, however, was clear. Slightly foggy and cool, but clear. In no time we touched the mighty NH-44 and started to move in dark and humid environment. As the dawn started to light up, at distance we could see the wind-mills rotating. by within 2 hours by 7 am, we were drinking coffee at Thirunelveli, some 90 kms away. And that was awesome covering of distance. The road was clear, not much traffic. The coffee was so awesome that we had double cups, actually glasses.

 By 9.15 we reached Madurai and stopped for a breakfast, obviously Idli and Wada, being in South India.

 With some brief Tea stop at Karur, we reached Salem at 2 pm for Lunch. This time it was South Indian Meals.

 By 5 PM, we were at the outskirts of Bangalore. It took us about 11 hours to cover 700 kms. And it took further 3 more hours to cover 40 kms; thanks to Bangalore traffic. We decided to cross City and stop ahead since we had some time in hand. This could save our morning time next day. We stayed at a place called Devanhalli.

 This was unbelievable for me. We covered 737 kms in a day; and that was all time high, so far. This ride made me confident that this is achievable; we can complete the #k2kride and make history for ourselves.
Till today morning when we cranked our Engines, I was not sure about completion of this feat. But when we hit the road and cruised effortlessly till Thirunelveli, my confidence started building up.

 Route: Kanyakumari - Thirunelveli - Madurai - Salem - Hosur - Bangalore - Devanhalli
Kms covered: 737
From Tamil Nadu we crossed in Karnataka after Hosur.

 Day-2, With confidence this time:
After quick tea below our lodge, we started for onward ride; it was 6 am. Climate was still so-so... not too hot, not much chilly. Immediately we crossed in AP. Little ahead, there was a road to Puttaparthi, birthplace of Satya Sai Baba.

 Next big city was Ananthapur. On the way we saw huge project of Kia Motors. Being a Korean company, lot many Korean Officials and Workers must have been here; even the road signs, advertisements, names of hotels and home-stays were written in Korean language. We even saw a board of Korean Town-ship. This was something new for us, completely unknown.
We had a breakfast here.

 Somewhere near Gooty (between Ananthapur and Kurnool) we found our first signboard for Srinagar, our target of the ride. It was still 2646 kms ahead. This was first of the wish - capturing the first milestone that mentions distance of our target, Srinagar.

 By 3 pm, we reached outskirts of Hyderabad. And we made a mistake here. Our Google Maps showed us to take a left turn and we landed on to Nehru Outer Ring Road (ORR). Awesome road, 4 laned each side... terrific riding experience. But only one problem, 2-Wheeler is not allowed :-(

 Somehow, we managed to get out of it and went through the Hyderabad city, wasting almost an hour's time. By 4 pm we had our lunch that day. Today was the day for a change in cuisine - from Idli, Wada, Dosa to lip-smacking Biryani. We had it at A1 Green Bawarchi Restaurant, Secunderabad.

 Our stop for the day was 100 kms away at Kamareddy. We reached by about 7 pm and got ourselves accommodated in a lodge near Bus Stand.

 Route: Devanhalli - Anantapur - Kurnool - Mahbubnagar - Hyderabad - Kamareddy
Kms covered: 697 for the day ; 1434 total
From Karnataka we crossed into Andhra Pradesh and then to Telangana.

 Day-3, Marching towards half-way:

We started ahead after tea again. Cold was felt for the first time today. Some distance ahead and we were blessed with an awesome view of the ride.

 By 8 we reached near Maharashtra border. We had our breakfast here - Parantha-Sabji and Chai for the first time.

 Just while we were crossing into Maharashtra, we came across our first diversion on NH-44 due to some road construction work. This was awesome, because this was after whopping 1600 kms from where we started.

 Lunch was planned at Kiran's friend's house in Nagpur. After sumptuous homemade Punjabi lunch, we marched ahead immediately to save time.

As we were moving ahead, out of Nagpur city, there was this single laned road. We were waiting for a double lane road, our regular NH-44. Couple of ghats also came. For next 4 hours we continued driving on this road, thinking it to be our NH-44, waiting for a bigger, better and double laned road to come. With this we reached Narsingpur at 7 pm. This time we got a better hotel compared to lodges last two nights. Into our rooms we figured out what went wrong. We had made another mistake while coming out of Nagpur. We missed some turns or road; and hence instead of joining the NH-44, we took to NH-47. Lucky for us that both these roads pass from Narsingpur; hence we reached our planned destination for the day.

 A caveat: Distance from both these roads is almost same. NH-44 has so far been the big road with 2 lanes and a divider while NH-47 was single laned narrow road, not plain enough and also had couple of ghats. Still Google Maps was showing NH-47 as the best route when we had checked 3-4 times in between.

 Route: Kamareddy - Adilabad - Nagpur - Chhindwara - Narsingpur
Kms covered: 658 for the day ; 2092 total
From Telangana we reached into Madhya Pradesh, passing through Maharashtra.

 Day-4, Winter Is Coming!!!

This was our most chilly ride so far. Gradually as we were cruising North, we felt drop in temperature; and this felt terrible during early morning rides.

 We started from our hotel by searching direction for NH-44 on Google Maps. We didn't want to miss again this time. Once we joined, we started cruising ahead. Chill in the air was taking its toll; we were longing to wait for some hot tea & some warm fire. But we carried on for an hour and then stopped at a road side tea-shop.

 Again after 2 hours, we broke for breakfast at Sagar. From here we reached Jhansi at 12.30 pm. Here we took a break for 30 mins. Reason was to tighten the chain of my bike. It loosened and was creating noise. But we figured out that nothing much can be done; unless replacement. We could not afford that now, time wise. Hence with some adjustment, we started ahead. I was terribly excited being entering Jhansi for the first time. Actually, I wanted to spend some time & explore this land of Rani Laxmibai. But, we didn't had time. As we entered Jhansi, I was trying to captured some glimpse of a monument or a fort of the bygone era. However, I could see a statue of the Queen on the other side of the road. This was the only memory that I could capture of Jhansi. Sad, it deserved more. This was my second wish - could not be fulfilled fully.

 As we crossed Jhansi, next couple of hours were the most boring period of our ride. A long stretch (about 60 kms) of the road was under construction. There were multiple diversions, dusty roads, roads going through crowded market place due to lack of a fly-over or a bypass, single lane functioning, etc.

 As we crossed Dabra, we had our lunch for the day. It was awesome; the North Indian meals of Roti / Naan and Paneer Sabji / Dal.

 Then came another Royal Capital, Gwalior. As we were bypassing through the city, I was trying to catch a glimpse of Gwalior Fort. But to no vain.

 As Morena passed, another renowned place came by. I was eager to capture it as well. The infamous Chambal Valley. Though now it is perfectly safe, one could imagine how terrifying it would have been with all Burglar Gangs active in here (e.g. Phoolan Devi).


 By 7 pm we reached Agra. It took little bit of searching for hotel; however, we did get a good deal.

 Our plan was to reach Agra by 5 and try to visit Taj Mahal the same day. However, now we decided to visit next morning. We wanted to avoid this so that we could start on time and reach Amritsar on time.

 Route: Narsingpur - Sagar - Jhansi - Gwalior - Morena - Agra
Kms covered: 608 for the day ; 2700 total

From Madhya Pradesh we reached into Uttar Pradesh, with multiple crossings between Rajasthan, MP and UP.

Day-5, Wah Taj!!!
Yesterday, we were discussing the possibility of visiting The Taj. We missed the chance to visit yesterday due to our delay. Now, if we had to visit next morning, we can go there only after 6 am, as it opens for public at that time. This means our onward ride delays. So far we had ensure that we are hitting the road before 6.
Morning walk to the Taj
But this would have been unfair to miss the beauty even being in its land. We started off towards Taj Mahal at 5.30 am. We didn't wanted to miss the first entry and hence avoid getting delayed ahead. We also decided to just enter the Main Gate  (Darwaza-i-Rauza) and view Taj from there. We decided not to venture inside due to paucity of time.

 By 5.45 am we were already at the queue for entry. This was a unique sight. Number of foreigners were overwhelmingly more than the Indians. Indians must have been sleeping underneath heavy blanket on that cold morning :-)

 They opened the gates 5 mins early and we entered. Crossing past the Main Gate, we spent about 15 mins there - watching the beauty coming to light in that morning rays. This was the first time since my previous 2 visits, I watched the Taj with minimal crowd in my frame. Actually, there was nobody on the platform.

 From here we rushed back. But not without spending some time at the Statue of Shivaji Maharaj. This was my 3rd wish since we planned this trip. In front of the main gate of Agra Fort, an equestrian statue of the Maratha King has been installed. Uniqueness about this is that it is facing the Fort in attacking stance. This is to commemorate his escape from the prison of Aurangzeb, considered by many as humiliation to the Mughal Empire.
It was a moment of pride for us to watch this befitting memorial of our King in a distant land, 1000s of kms away.

 We came back to hotel by 7 am. After tying our bags on bikes and other formalities, we were good to go by 7.30; about 1.5 hours late that our usual standard time. However, this was already considered.

 We rode towards Mathura and just before Haryana-UP border stopped for some breakfast - Gulshan Dhaba Murthal wala.

 As we approached Delhi NCR, before Faridabad, we came across a large bypass equivalent to an Expressway. Some enquiry and came to know this to be Western Peripheral Expressway (or Kundali-Manesar-Palwal Expressway). We saw some bikes going over it. However, we had the Nehru ORR (Hyderabad) experience back of our minds. We confirmed with 2-3 drivers and bikers. They said since the Expressway is newly constructed and official inauguration is not yet done, bikes can use it (it is actually not allowed for 2-wheelers); however, they told this is the longer way. Passing through city would be a better option.

 However, seeing the awesome road in front of us and chance to ride here, we decided to go through it, letting it be a long route. We were intercepted by Delhi Police though. However, they enquired about our ride, were impressed learning that we are riding from Kanyakumari and hence let us go wishing us. :-)

 And what a ride it was!!! 150 kms of Expressway; almost 2.5 hours of ride; not a soul in between... The weather was cloudy and also foggy. The ride cost us about 50 kms more than the Delhi City road; but all the way, it was worth it.

Western Peripheral Expressway on Google Maps

 We joined the NH-44 at Kundali Naka - the Delhi-Haryana Border. We had our lunch at Pahalwan Dhaba near Sonipat.

 With a short tea break at Singh Vaishno Dhaba near Sirhind, it took us 7 pm to reach Ludhiana. Amritsar was still 150 kms ahead and it would be getting dark soon. We had an option to stay at Jalandhar (60 kms more) and again start off to Amritsar next morning; or stretch some more and directly reach Amritsar. This would help us toil hard today, but enjoy full rest tomorrow (save us from getting up early and start off in the morning). This would also save our time in hotel search at another place.

 From Jalandhar, we moved away from NH-44 for connecting to Amritsar. By 10 pm, we reached Amritsar. Reached near Bus Stand and searched out a decent hotel - Paras Regency.
Entering Amritsar
Today's was the most stretched day - kms wise it was second most distance covered, while time wise it was the longest (we actually started at 5.30 am for Taj Mahal and stopped riding at 10 pm) with 16.5 hours of riding.

Route: Agra - Mathura - Delhi (bypassed) - Sonipat - Panipat - Karnal - Ludhiana - Jalandhar - Amritsar
Kms covered: 723 for the day ; 3423 total

From Uttar Pradesh we crossed into Delhi, Haryana and then into Punjab.

Day-6, Worship and Pride...

Today was our rest day and the day of sight-seeing. The only day allocated fully for roaming around. No time-bound target for the day.

 We got up late, got ready lazily and then started off for the highlight of Amritsar - Harmandir Saheb, most famous as The Golden Temple. This is by far the holiest shrine for Sikhs. Recognized as अठ सथ तीरथ (shrine of 68 pilgrimages). It is also referred as Darbar Saheb.

 The Golden Temple is the Gurudwara built in-between a man-made pool of water. It was built by the 4th Guru of Sikhs, Guru Ram Das in 1577. The 5th Guru, Guru Arjan, placed a copy of Adi Granth Saheb in 1604. For next 150 years it was persecuted by Muslim armies many times; however rebuilt repeatedly by the Sikhs. The present day structure was built in 1764-1776. In the start of 18th century, Maharaja Ranjit Singh laid it's present marble structure and overlaid the sanctum with Gold foil. Hence the name.

 The Gurudwara Complex is nominated as as the World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Apart from Gurudwara and the Water-pool, the Complex houses Akal Takht (center of religious authority), Clock Tower, place for Langar & Offices of Gurudwara Committee.

 Golden Temple is open for worship for all men & women from any faith, religion and walks of life. Only binding is the head to be covered with a cloth (can be a handkerchief or a dupatta). About 100,000 people visit here daily.

Road towards the Golden Temple is very narrow from Bus Stand. There is a flyover going over this narrow road, making this even more congested. It felt as if the structure like this deserves a better access.




 As we proceed ahead, there is a large square with a huge statue of Maharaja Ranjeet Singh in the center. From here there is a sudden change in surroundings. The street is well laid. Statues displaying Punjabi and Sikh culture attract you. Shops are well lined-up with names and hoardings in same format / template; whether it's McDonald's or a local Lassi-wala.

 Jalianwala Baug is just next to the Golden Temple. However, we didn't had much time as Attari Border was lined-up next. Hence after a glass full of Amritsari Lassi, we marched into the Temple Complex.
Jalianwala Baug Memorial
As we climbed down the steps, shining Gold on a bright sunny morning caught the eye. The sight was mesmerizing. Its golden reflection in the clean water below was looking beautiful. We just waited for a moment to sink the view in our memories.

 After some photo-ops, we marched for the darshan. However, this took lot of time. We had not considered this. It took us almost an hour to complete the darshan. By 1 pm we reached back to our hotel.

 Next was the Lowering of Flags Ceremony (some call it as Beating Retreat) at Attari Border. Actual ceremony started at 5 pm; however we were told that crowd starts appearing from 2 pm onwards in order to capture better sitting position.

 However, rush in Golden Temple delayed our visit plan. We started from our hotel by 1.15 pm. We decided to ride on our bikes. This was highlight of our ride. A sense of pride filled inside us as we were riding on the Grand Trunk Road, the road that crosses border into Pakistan. Attari Border is about 29 kms from Amritsar. On the way we stopped for a while to get our vehicles washed. In order to avoid time loss, we skipped our lunch.

 As we drove our sparkling bikes ahead, came my 4th wish - to capture a snap in front of signboard / milestone mentioning Lahore.

 And a km prior to Attari Border, we were greeted by the massive Tri-color waving hard. That was a sight to watch. At the same time a Delhi-Lahore Bus passed ahead of us; it did had some security and pilot vehicles.
After parking our bikes, we entered inside through the huge "Swarna Jayanti Dwar". The Grand Trunk Roads goes into Pakistan through the Zero Line. On both side of the Line are the Gates of India and Pakistan which were closed. On both side of the Road were the Stands / Viewing Gallery. It was huge at the Indian side. At Pakistani side, they were much less in comparison. On their side also, Pakistani flag was fluttering on a high pole.

Panorama - Pakistan on the left

Closer view of Border Gates - Pakistan on other side
When we reached, already 50% crowd had occupied their seats. Others were still coming. माहौल बन रहा था; the buzz was prep-ing up. Patriotic songs were being played; crowd was getting pumped-up, they were dancing and swinging. Occasionally the Border Gates were opened for passengers who were crossing through (into or from Pakistan). The Delhi-Lahore Bus which crossed us earlier, now came to the Border Crossing (must be after routine checks & immigration procedures) and crossed over into Pakistan. There were cheers and whistles and waves to these passengers from the crowd. They were waving back too.




BSF Officers were hosting the event. Cheering the crowds, making them dance to the tune. He called in the kids on the road. They were given Indian flags and were told to run towards the Zero Line. They he called upon the women folk. Gradually, this number rose to more than 200 women and children dancing & celebrating on the road.

 A large Tri-color was being moved through the crowd and people were getting excited to let the Flag pass over them.

 There is one caveat: no abusing of other country is allowed. All you can cheer are the three slogans only - वन्दे मातरम, भारत माता की जय and हिंदुस्तान ज़िंदाबाद.

 2 hours passed in no time, enjoying this fervor. Lowering of Flags Ceremony started at 5 pm. The parade that happens on both sides is a sight to cherish. The way they walk, raise their legs as high as possible (even above their foreheads), display their coordinated manoeuvres as they march rapidly towards the border, their mannerisms displaying aggression through expressions and hand-postures, and a lot more is a view to watch. And all this with a thunder of cheer from the crowd at the back.

 As the Sun starts to set, Gates are opened. Flags on both sides are lowered slowly with a background of Bugle. Flags waving in the area (even the Army & BSF Flags) also are lowered. The Flags are then properly folded and are carried back in full honors by the respective Officers; to be brought back next morning. With a brief hand-shake between Jawans at the Zero Line, Gates are closed. This ends the ceremony.

 A thing to mention that BSF Officers also had a visible presence of Lady Officers in this Ceremony. And that is quiet remarkable.

 While the ceremony was on, suddenly it started to rain. It was brief, but it was heavy. The crowd suddenly started running for cover. The front row stands became empty suddenly. However on the field, Ceremony was still on. The rains didn't hamper the routine of these Officers on duty ... RESPECT!!!

 After the end, we started for our return journey. Though rains had stopped, it brought the chill in the air. We didn't had any protection gear, except our helmet. This was getting very cold. The wet roads were resulting to spraying of muddy water wetting us and our bikes dirty. Clean, sparkling bike which we did at the washing centre, now again came to its previous, even worse condition.

Route: Amritsar - Attari - Amritsar (with local riding)
Kms covered: 70 for the day ; 3493 total

Day-7, The Final Lap...
Today's was an exciting day for us; our final lap. We were to achieve our goal; realize our dream. However, today's was the hard ride. So far we traveled through the 4 laned highway, plain tar road. This was not going to be the same. Distance to travel was least today, however road was supposed to a 200 kms ghat section with single lane and possible traffic jams and / closures. We had traveled through this twice before - first in a taxi for Vaishnodevi-Srinagar Trip and then a bike ride to Ladakh. There were some news coming earlier about possible closure of highway due to snowfall and landslides. Hence we planned to start as early as 4 am.

 However, we got up from sleep late and started off by 5.30 am. After a quick tea, we moved ahead. By 7.30 we reached Pathankot, the last big town in Punjab. Stopped for a tea-break. Climate was very cold. It was really difficult to keep riding; but the target was in our sight. While tea was being made, we were warming ourselves at the gas stove.

 Few kms ahead, we crossed in J&K at Lakhanpur. Technically, we achieved our target from Southernmost state of Tamil Nadu to the Northernmost state of Jammu & Kashmir. However, Kashmir was still 270 kms ahead.


 We entered Jammu by 9 am. This was as per our plan. Now was uncertain time ahead. We knew till Udhampur (50 kms more) it was a good 4-lane highway. We were cruising over it enjoying the views and remembering our previous journeys over this highway. Last both times we had experienced traffic snarls near Udhampur town. However, this time we completely bypassed the town and were greeted with heavy construction work going on. This was a new development. Soon we realized the complete stretch between Udhampur and Jawahar Tunnel (Banihal) was being made into a 4-lane highway; and just to remind it is complete ghat section. After this happens, may be in next 4-5 years, the road between Kanyakumari to Srinagar would be a complete. And this is a WOW!!!

 All across, construction work and tunnel work is going on. The road was dusty and full with pits with a valley running down and beauty of snow-capped mountains in the background.

 About 30 kms of dirt riding from Udhampur, we came across another feather in the cap for India. An awesome master piece of developed India. The Chenani-Nashri (चनैनी-नाशरी) Tunnel - India's longest tunnel of 9.2 kms. This tunnel bypasses the traffic jams zone of the Patni Top (snowfall and landslide prone areas). This tunnel saves about 30 kms, equivalent 2 hours of travel-time. This has India's first Fully Integrated Tunnel Control System.

 While the tunnel is a single lane road without separators for ongoing and incoming traffic, there is a separate tube running parallel to the main tunnel for full 9 kms which acts as an emergency exit (escape tunnel). Effective exhaust system ensures removal of vehicle gases. SOS telephone boxes are present. Tunnel is well under surveillance through CCTV Cameras. It has lay-bys at regular intervals to park the broken-down vehicles, which are then immediately towed away from the Escape Tube. It also has fire safety measures. In case of traffic violation by the vehicle drivers, vehicles are pulled-our by the traffic cops outside and fined; this is controlled with help from CCTV Cameras. Speed limit inside the tunnel for all vehicles is 50 kmph. Overtaking is not allowed; crossing into oncoming lane is prohibited.

 As we came near the tunnel, we got it clarified whether 2-Wheelers are allowed inside; again our Nehru ORR experience ;-) and also, there were some mentions online that 2Ws are not allowed here. However, we got a confirmation from a J&K Police constable there. We even saw few other local bike commuters.

 Within 10 minutes time we were on the other side of the tunnel; which otherwise could have taken 2 hours. Immediately came Peerah. Our regular hotspot for Rajma-Chawal. It was 1 pm and Srinagar was still about 150 kms ahead. Normally, we could have covered this in 1.5 hours; however, this type of terrain may very well take about 4-5 hours.

 As we cruised ahead again, snow clad mountains were calling us. In our company were the rivers of the region - Tawi to start with near Jammu, now Chenaab and Jhelum would be coming soon once inside Kashmir.

 We were sensing the cold. Since it was pitch afternoon with Sun shining bright, the cold was bearable. However, as we were going near the Valley, this was going to get bitter. We had witnessed rapid change in climate over the past 7 days.

While enjoying this drive for 3rd time in 3 years, we reached the Jawahar Tunnel (Banihal Pass). I was having goose-bumps within me. Our dream was just 2.5 kms away. Till 1 week ago, that one thing which we were working towards, which I always felt that I may not be able to complete, that 1 thing for which so much efforts were taken, was in our reach. Crossing this Jawahar Tunnel would land us into THE KASHMIR VALLEY. As I entered inside the darkness, I knew we had done it, well almost.

 We came out of the Tunnel and entered the paradise. Kashmir was reached. Technically, we had completed the Kanyakumari to Kashmir Bike Ride. Now reaching Srinagar was just a logistic arrangement. It was 4 pm. We completed the journey in 77 riding hours.

 As we were driving, I was feeling like we need to stop and congratulate each other. We did so on our bikes, waving hands, cheering, dancing, shouting. But actually waited couple of kms away at the Kashmir Viewpoint.

 We parked our bikes, hugged each other. This was the moment. We actually completed our Dream Ride. This is not difficult, but it is definitely exhausting. And looking at the scope and range of travel distance, not many attempt it.
In the Paradise
Kashmir Valley - First view
It was terrifyingly cold. Since we had riding gloves, our fingers had gone numb with chilling air entering through its ventilating pores. On the road, there was a local vendor selling woolens. We purchased the basic woolen hand-gloves as an additional protection. This was much better.

 Now once we crossed through Jawahar Tunnel, we were atleast safe from road closures. Because next 90 kms now was a straight road. We could sense the changes since our previous visit 2.5 years ago. Road was complete 4-lane highway bypassing intermediate towns like Anantanag, Pampore, Awantipora, etc. Withing couple of hours, we reached Srinagar. Since we had loved our previous stay hotel, we decided to straightaway venture inside and grab a deal. With some searching, ofcourse, we found out of our hotel - Malik Palace, right across the Dal Lake.
Now was our time for a peaceful sleep and end of targets for good.

 We had kept couple of days as reserved with 1 day for Gulmarg. We didn't encountered any delays on account of our health, bikes condition, any untoward mishap and traffic jam issues. Touch-wood. We reached at each of our daily destinations as decided. Hence now after next day sightseeing at Srinagar, we had two more days of free time. Our return flight was from Jammu on 19-Nov-18. Actually, as mentioned earlier, we had planned a ride till Gurez. But we decided to cancel it due to various uncertainties. And visit Gulmarg instead.
Route: Amritsar - Batala - Gurdaspur - Pathankot - Lakhanpur - Kathua - Jammu - Udhampur - Ramban - Banihal - Anantnag - Srinagar
Kms covered: 490 for the day ; 3983 total
From Punjab we crossed into Jammu & Kashmir, our target state.


After getting freshen-up we started for a walk on the Boulevard Road around the famous Dal Lake. It was really cold out there; we were feeling it inside our closed room also. The whole evening we were just soaking in the feeling about successful completion of out attempt. We actually created the history for ourselves.



This was at 8 am in the morning


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