Goa is synonymous to sun, sea, sand & seafood. Also not to forget, alcohol. Here one can see a nice blend of Indian & Portuguese culture. Number of churches, the structure of houses & lifestyle of people is largely catholic. Goa has always has this aura of something out of Indian; that you won't find elsewhere in India. Post our awesome Ladakh Ride, we were wanting to take another one. Goa was always in my mind as I had never been there; barring once when I was in school, & that should not be counted at all ;-)
November 1, 2017:
After all basic bike preparations, we kicked-off from Pune at 6.30 in the morning. We had decided to take the NH-4 Highway till Kolhapur and then break away for NH-17 via Amboli ghat.
We were 5 of us with 5 bikes (Avenger, Classic, 2 Thunderbirds and a ST7). We decided a meet-up point near Narhe-Ambegaon and proceeded to our onward journey. We took a breakfast stop at Hotel Virangula (before Satara). We covered approx. 80 kms in about 1.5 hours time. Thanks to no traffic due to a weekday. We had sumptuous breakfast of Misal-Pav and hot Tea. After a short break at Karad (80 kms further ahead), we reached Kolhapur; our target for lunch for the day. We had a special Kolhapuri (Tambada-Pandhara) Lunch at Hotel Parakh. With a heavy stomach & much reluctance, we embarked for further ride. We rode about 40 kms more on the NH-4. Entering Karnataka state, slightly ahead of Nipani there is a right turn towards Amboli, Sawantwadi & Goa. This is called as Goa Phata or the Goa Ves. Even there is a hotel by the name Goa Ves; and another as Kaveri.
This was our end to the Highway drive and what we entered was a rustic village setting and small roads. Again back into Maharashtra, we reached Amboli Ghat, leaving villages behind - Uttur, Ajara. Amboli Ghat drive was awesome. Considering the rains that lash this area, the road was fairly good. Scenery around was beautiful. As we descended the Ghat, the road twirled through dense forest area. This was another experience ride of the day. Next big town at the descend of the Ghat is Sawantwadi. Riding along a beautiful lake in the town centre was great. I was not knowing such a beautiful lake exists in between, called Moti Talao, which I came to know later. While riding by its side, I was getting a feeling of Mall Road in Nainital (though in a miniature way). After Sawantwadi we joined the NH-17 (Mumbai-Goa Highway). We crossed into Goa state at Banda checkpost. Further, we actually should have exited before Pernem towards right for Vagator, which was our destination. We even enquired at that place. But we got wrong info. And we moved ahead till Mhapusa and Shivoli and then reached Vagator. Actually we reached Goa by 6.30 pm. About 420 kms in 12 hours. But we took another hour or so reach our destination and to search a stay option. We were able to find an Apartment at very cheap rate; being an off-season ofcourse. Two apartments of two rooms each for two nights - 3000 Rs. Route: Pune-Satara-Kolhapur-Nipani-Amboli-Sawantwadi-Banda-Vagator (Goa)
November 2, 2017:
Next two days were relaxed one's for us. Today was even better as we had nothing to day. Tomorrow, atleast we had to leave Goa in the afternoon. After a lazy breakfast at a local restaurant, we visited the Vagator Beach. However, it was just a small beach but was rocky enough. There was nothing much to do. After a brief photo-op, we started for our planned destination of the day - Arambol Beach.
Djembe hanging at the restaurant
North Goa is famous for its beaches. As you go far inside, the beaches of Baga & Calangute are renowned. However, they are are crowded & commercialised. The one's in this part of Goa (towards the entry point, north most side) are more pristine & relaxed. Hence most of the tourists visiting here, come for relaxation. One can find many foreigners here. Arambol beach is beautiful & serene. It is said to be one of the best beaches of Goa. With shacks on its edge and clean white sand below, this was a great relaxation point for us. Being an off-season, it was not crowded. But whoever we saw here were mostly foreigners. Indians, though very few, started gathering a bit late.
Arambol Beach
The road to the beach goes through the small market in Arambol village. Many shops, mostly of clothes, are lined-up on both sides of road. On the beach, we had a small stroll, walking over the clean sand cutting through the waves. before relaxing into one of the shacks. These shacks are lined-up at the back provided a seating area facing the sea. There were Beach Beds lined-up in front.
Some amongst us went to the sea for a swim; I however, preferred to just sit and enjoy the place with a pint of beer and snacks. We spent the whole day there, with some add-ons of massage & tattoo in between.
By the time the sun moved towards west, the shack employees started to take back the Beach Beds; maybe they started their preparation for the night life. We found that crowd had also increased. While we left, we saw a person playing a guitar.
This was byfar one of the most relaxed vacations of my life. I "actually" did nothing the whole day.
November 3, 2017:
Today, we had to leave Goa for Tarkarli. However, we had planned to visit Chapora Fort prior. But first we had breakfast, again at the same local restaurant. The Fort is named on Chapora River to which it overlooks. Currently it is in ruins, however it was once very strategically important to Portuguese because of its location on northern boundary of Goa. These ruins still provide a very good landscape. And not forget the view it provides from top - Chapora River & beaches of Chapora, Anjuna & Vagator can be seen.
Chapora Fort
Vagator Beach - view from Chapora Fort
The current construction of the Fort is of 17th century by Portuguese, however its history goes back to 15th century when they first came to Goa. Marathas under the rule of Chatrapati Sambhaji did conquer the fort for first time in 1684 and then again in 1737.
The Fort shot to fame due to the Hindi movie "Dil Chahata Hai", so much so that it is still known as "Dil Chahata Hai Fort".
Actually, there is nothing much to see on the fort. Runined fortification surrounds a flat land. However, the view this place provides is breath-taking. It would be even fruitful if you visit in the evenings; however the time mentioned here was upto 5:30 pm. In that case sun-set might be missed.
We spent some time here taking pictures and enjoying the view. Then we retreated to our apartment for final check-out. We started off by 11 am approx. for Tarkarli. This time we took the right route directly reaching between Pernem & Banda on NH-17. We continued till ahead of Chouke; from here there is a left turn to Malvan. Once in Malvan, we had a good Malvani lunch with Sol-kadhi. We reached Visava Resort at Tarkarli by 4.30 pm.
Malvani Lunch
After a cup of tea we were on the beach to enjoy the sun-set. Beach is near to Visava Resort; seems to be a sort of private beach.
Sun-set on Tarkarli Beach
The view on the beach was surreal - with Sun setting in west while Moon rising from east. It was Tripuri Pornima that day. The Moon was looking fascinating.
Morning we started off for Scuba Diving. Tarkarli coast is famous for Scuba Diving; one of the few locations in India. Others are in Goa, Andaman, Lakshadweep, Pondicherry, Karnataka.
Fishermen sorting their catch in the nets planted overnight
Scuba Diving here, is done near the coastline of Sindhudurga Fort. They take through boats to the location. These can be available from Malvan or nowadays, they offer pick-up from some hotels & resorts also. We got one such pick-up from out hotel beach.
About half an sailing and we were at the Sindhudurga. One-by-one, people go inside water after wearing all the related kit - weights, jacket & breathing apparatus. A trainer explains the working and gives a trial. Then he takes you down below. At Tarkarli, they take you about 8-10 feet. Once inside, the environment is phenomenal. It seems as if a whole new world has opened-up. It feels very peaceful. The scene from the film "Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara" appears in front you; and the dialogue which the Heroine says, "Tumhari zindagi badalne wali hai". Sunlight crossing through the vast expanse of blue water and colorful corals below of different shapes & sizes; colorful fish coming in between - it seemed as if live Nat Geo experience. We returned to our hotels, got freshen-up and had lunch. By 3 pm we left Tarkarli for our return journey. We had planned a night halt at Kolhapur (about 160 kms via Gaganbavda). After some Cashew shopping, we made a move. In between, we took a wrong turn before Kankavli and went on Phonda Ghat route instead of Gaganbawda Ghat. And the road ahead was pathetic. It reminded us our Ladakh ride :-) ... its a joke... But the road was bad, it started getting dark, it seemed as if there was forest around, traffic was minimal and the cimate was getting chilly. And over it, one of our riders octopus rope broke; hence we had to drive slowly & carefully. Finally, with all such hurdles, we reached Kolhapur by 9 pm.
पधारोम्हारेदेश - this quote is epitomized with the land of Rajputana, now
Rajasthan. If you wanna experience Royalty, Grandeur, Marvel, this is
the place. Rajasthan is famous for its extravagant colors, veiled
traditions and valor of Rajputs.
Rajasthan constitutes of two major regions – Mewad & Marwad.
We planned to visit the Mewad part of it, a non-desert region.
We reached Jaipur by evening flight. Reaching our hotel,
remaining evening was free. We just roamed around with a plan to explore this
Pink City next day.
Jaipur, named after its founder Maharaja Jai
Singh II, is the first Planned City of India. It
was planned based on principles of Vaastu Shaastra. City Design is grid based
with divisions into various blocks. Maharaja wanted to shift his Capital at
Amer to accommodate growing population. Hence the present location of Jaipur
was selected about 10 kms away. The City was founded in 17th
century.
Jaipur is called as Pink City of India. However since we
landed here, we didn’t see any Pink. The City was normal like any other city
elsewhere. But, when we started for our sightseeing next day and as we entered the
large Pink Gate, the architecture changed. Buildings were not Pink but
Terra-cota colored. Names on the shops were of same style everywhere (Black
Letters on a White background). All shops, houses, restaurants, lodges, even
some temples were of same color. What we saw was the front facing parts of the
building were Pink (Terra-cota). Buildings at the back within the alleys were
of regular colors & design.
During the rule of Maharaja Sawai Ram Singh, City was
painted Pink to welcome the Prince of Wales in 18th century. This
Pink later on got changed to Brownish-Red or the Terra-cota color.
This is the old Jaipur City. It is covered with a wall from
all sides with 8 large gates. Hence it is also referred to as Walled City.
Outside these walls is the newly developed City, just like any other.
We started for the city sightseeing next morning.
November 7, 2016:
Amer palace is a place which by far is the best place to
visit in Jaipur. Amer village at the foot of a hillock over which stands the
magnificent walled palace was the original Capital of Kachwaha (Kushwaha)
Dynasty / Clan.
The palace is accessible by vehicles or by elephant ride.
Elephant ride costs around Rs. 1100 for two adults (one elephant). However it
normally has long queue and is time consuming. But the experience of entering
the palace on a royal safari would definitely be an experience of a lifetime.
This ride is available only upto noon. We went by our cab.
Elephant ride
The palace is built in four levels – Jalebi Chowk (main
palace grounds), Diwan-e-Aam (Public Audience Hall), Diwan-e-Khaas or
Sheesh-Mahal (private meeting place / chambers for Royals) and the Zenana or
Women’s Quarters (for Royal Ladies & their attendants including mistresses
& concubines).
Jalebi Chowk - with Diwan-e-Aam seen on left above & Ganesh Pol behind
As you enter the first gate (Suraj pol), there is the
open area called the Jalebi Chowk. This used to be the place for gathering of
Soldiers & the Armed Forces. Today, elephants reach till this point.
Tickets for the Palace need to be purchased here – Rs. 100 for adults. We also
hired a Guide for Rs. 200.
Jalebi Chowk
Climbing few steps one can reach second level. It houses
the Diwan-e-Aam. The elevation actually is because of water storage tanks
below. It is based on rain water storage concept. This area was open to general
public. The King used to meet the people in his routine Darbar here.
Diwan-e-Aam
By the side of Diwan-e-Aam, there is a Hammaam and
an exquisitely decorated large entrance gate, the Ganesh Pol, named because of
Lord Ganesh painted at its top. This gate is the entry to the private chambers
of the Royals, the third level.
Ganesh Pol
Art-work - Golden color (natural) within Ganesh Pol
As you pass through Ganesh Pol, a garden welcomes you. It
was built on the lines of Mughal Garden with a fountain in the centre. On the
left is the famous Sheesh-Mahal or Diwan-e-Khaas. It is also known as Jai
Mandir. This is one of the most beautiful & awe-inspiring constructions of
the Palace. It is exquisitely embellished with glass inlaid panels &
multi-mirrored ceilings. Raja Man Singh built & completed it in 1727.
Multiple reflections of a candle light through thousands of
mirrors would have been a sight to savor. Somewhere it is mentioned as
“glittering jewel box in flickering candle light’. Same can be witnessed to
some extent by light a mobile torch.
It reminds the Pyar Kiya Toh Darna Kya song from Hindi film
Mughal-e-Aazam. It is wrongly mentioned that it was shot here; actually the
Sheesh-Mahal in that song is an artificial set.
There is a Sheesh-Mahal in Agra Fort; and a Kaanch Mandir in
Indore. However, this one is far better maintained.
Garden in front of Sheesh Mahal
Diwan-e-Khaas (Sheesh Mahal)
Mirror / Glass work - inside of Diwan-e-Khaas
Ahead is the Zenana. Way for this part is a small passage
without steps to ascend or descend. It had slope with textured floorings. It is
said that the Royal Ladies, during their marriage, wore studded Royal Dresses
along with splendid gold ornaments. All this weighed about 20-50 kgs. The woman
couldn’t walk wearing so much. So she was brought inside on a wheeled chair or
a Doli.
Raja Man Singh had twelve wives. This part of palace houses
12 quarters, 1 for each wife (3 on each side forming a square) with a separate
bathing & toilet facilities. These chambers had provision for their maids
also. The central square has a pillared pavilion. This was used as a meeting
venue for the ladies.
It is said that Queens’ Quarters were interlinked to the
King’s Quarter with secret passages. King visited any of the Queens of his
choice; no one knew to whom the King visited. It is said that King was identified
in a Room where the Beeda (or Paan) is ordered / provided.
Pillared Pavillion
Amer was ruled by Kachwaha’s – they are supposed to be the
descendents of Lord Ram from his son Kush.
The area around present day Amer & Jaipur was known as
Dhundhar in 10th century. It was ruled by the Meena clan. Rana
Kankal Dev of Kachawaha Dynasty destroyed sovereignty of Meenas & formed
their Capital here. He also constructed Ambikeshwar Temple. Name Amer is said
to be derived from it. It is also said that Amer is derived from Amba Mata of
Meena clan.
Amer town - below Amer Fort
As soon Capital was formed, they started constructing
fortified walls. This was the birth of Amer Fort. For the next 700 years Amer
remained capital of Kachwahas. As the time passed and generations changed, Amer
developed & became stronger.
India witnessed continuous attacks from Persians, Turks,
Mongols, Afghans. Many invaders raided this land in the form of Khiljis,
Tughlaks & Lodhis. But Amer stood by it all protecting its people.
The landscape changed in 16th century by arrival
of Mughals. In 1526, Mughal Emperor Babur defeated Ibrahim Lodhi at Panipat.
And this marked the beginning of Mughal Empire in Delhi.
Rajputs formed a coalition against this new invasion. On 17
March 1527, Rajputs & Babur came face to face. Babur won this battle too
& marked a shadow of Mughals on Rajputana.
Ahead in the history, Kachwahas became the first allies of
Mughals in Rajputana. Raja Bharmal proposed to offer his daughter’s hand
(Princess Jodha) to Emperor Akbar in marriage in 1562.
Bharmal’s grandson Raja Man Singh I became a trusted general
in Akbar’s court. He was instrumental in development of Amer Palace inside the
Fort. His grandson Mirza Raja Jai Singh (Jai Singh I) further developed Amer.
Diwan-e-Aam was built by him making it equivalent to that in Agra Fort.
Maharashtrians know him for his Treaty of Purandar with Chhatrapati Shivaji
Maharaj.
History changed its course once again. In 17th
century, Mughal Empire started to diminish; Marathas had started to flourish.
Sawai Jai Singh II (grandson of Jai Singh I) decided to develop a new place as
Capital for the Kingdom. On 18 November, 1727 foundations of Jaipur were laid.
Jai Singh II was an expert in Science & Astrology. Jaipur is India’s First
Planned City. Jantar Mantar (the oldest observatories) of Delhi, Jaipur,
Banaras, Ujjain & Mathura are the ideologies of Jai Singh II. It would not
be wrong to say that, 300 years ago Jai Singh II scripted a philosophy of
Modern India.
After 600 years, glory of Amer gradually receded to the new
capital, Jaipur. Jaipur went on to become Capital of modern day Rajasthan State
in the Indian Union. Amer still remains strong overlooking the development of
Jaipur into one of the important cities of India.
Jaigad Fort - as seen from Amer Fort
There is Sound & Light Show in the evening which depicts
the full history of the region with fascinating Lighting of the Fort Walls. The
story telling with powerhouse music & song sequences make lasting
impression. There are two shows of 45 mins., first in English & then Hindi.
The show is fully worth of its ticket price of Rs. 250. Only drawback is one
would have to comeback all the way from Jaipur in the evening to watch this
show.
After our Amer Fort in the morning, we went to a National
Handloom Shop. Normally Guides after their tour take you to such shops. This is
a part of their business plan. However, purchasing of items from there is not
compulsory.
Our visit here helped us gain some knowledge about the
printing of cloth by natural colors. Most common item they show is the Jaipuri
Rajai. Apart from it, there were other goods like Sarees, Bed-sheets, Baandhani
Dress Material, Items with Precious Stones, etc.
After a short visit here, we returned back to Jaipur for the
visit of City Palace. City Palace is complex of multiple buildings (Palace,
Durbar, Museum). It was built by Sawai Jai Singh II when he shifted their
Capital from Amer to Jaipur.
City Palace - Entry
Entry ticket for adults is Rs. 130 while for Children it is
Rs. 70. There are multiple options for tickets like Gallery Viewing, Night
Viewing, Special Ticket for Chandra Mahal & also a comprehensive ticket for
many monuments. The most common is the 130-70 mentioned above.
As one enters inside, there is a grand pink walled courtyard
with a central pillared hall. This is Diwan-e-Aam. It has marbled flooring with
crystal chandeliers on the ceiling. There are few arms, guns on display. Two
large silver urns catch the attention. These are called as Ganga-jallee. They
hold a Guinness World Record as world’s largest silver vessels. Maharaja Sawai
Madho Singh II got these made to carry water of River Ganga with him to England
during his visit in 1901 (for King Edward VII’s coronation). He thought it to
be religious sin to consume English water.
Through one large marble gate one enters the other side of
this complex which houses Chandra Mahal. It grabs the easy attention being
tallest building of the complex and also not Red in color. There are 3-4
exquisitely carved gates. The one through which we come is the Peacock Gate,
the best amongst all. Royal Family still lives in the part of Chandra Mahal.
Chandra Mahal
Peacock Gate
Coming back to the main courtyard next to visit is the Sabha
Niwas (or Diwan-e-Khaas). It is kept & maintained in the condition as it
used to be in those days of ceremonial assemblies. The flooring has rich
Kashmiri Carpets, ceiling are adorned with chandeliers; the pillars are donned
with the flags showing emblems of erstwhile State of Jaipur. Walls are mounted
with life-size paintings of previous Kings. The hall has a gallery on one side
for Royal Women to view the proceedings without being seen.
Next is a Museum which houses Royal Costumes &
Accessories. It is housed in what is called as Mubarak Mahal.
After City Palace, we moved towards Jantar Mantar which is
just outside. It is a complex which houses collection of astronomical
instruments. These were built by Sawai Jai Singh II, who himself had immense
knowledge in astrology.
Jantar Mantar in front, City Palace Tower behind & Nahargadh Fort at far behind
There are about 19 astronomical instruments. It is better to
hire a guide. The charge is Rs. 200. But, this will at least help in
understanding these instruments.
The most famous is the Samrat Yantra, the world’s largest
sundial which measures time at an interval of 2 seconds. The Guides show the
calculation which shows accurate time with backlash of 10 minutes. This
difference is due to compensation for the longitude difference between Jaipur
& Allahabad (longitude reference line for IST).
Samrat Yantra, The Sun Dial
From here we returned back to our hotel. On the way we had a
photo-stop at Hawa Mahal, the iconic identity to the city of Jaipur. Hawa
Mahal, meaning Palace of Winds, was constructed for the Royal Ladies to observe
the Street Festivities & in a way take part in them. Also to observe the
everyday life on the Street below. It was constructed in such a way that they
could observe all happenings below while unseen from outside.
It is a 5 storied structure in the form of Lord Krishna’s
Crown. There are about 900 windows, small & large, with intricate
latticework. The lattice helps to maintain the privacy within while allowing
cool air to flow around causing the air-conditioning effect. Hence the name.
Hawa Mahal was built in 1799 by Sawai Pratap Singh (grandson
of Sawai Jai Singh II).
November 8, 2016:
In the morning we started for Ranthambore National Park, a
Tiger Reserve under Project Tiger of Govt. of India. It is one of the largest
National Parks in North India & is situated about 15 kms from Sawai
Madhopur. Distance between Jaipur & Sawai Madhopur is about 150 kms.
We started at about 9 am. After a breakfast stop, we reached
our hotel in Sawai Madhopur at 12 noon. After Check-in formalities, lunch &
a brief rest, we started for our Jungle Safari at 2 pm.
There are two modes of Safari, by a 20 seater Canter or 6
seater Gypsy. We opted for a Gypsy (cost is Rs. 5000). Normally a Gypsy goes
far in the interiors than a Canter. Also, too many people in a Canter may also
create lot of noise.
The wild life sanctuary is about 15 kms from Sawai Madhopur.
Safari is accompanied by a Driver and a Guide. The driver drove us till the
entry gate. A guide was allotted to us here. After basic formalities, we
entered inside.
The Sanctuary is divided zones. We went inside Zone-8. Zone
8 had a Tigress & her two Cubs (Male & Female), the guide explained. I
am not aware how these zones are selected; or whether we can select any
specific zone we want.
The forest here is not that dense (when compared with Jim
Corbett National Park). At least, not in this zone. It is said that chances of
spotting a Tiger here are more; maybe this is the reason.
Immediately, we came across the common members of the Jungle
– herd of Deer, Nilgai and Peahen (unfortunately, no Peacock). A little bit
inside, the Guide was aware that a Tiger had killed a Nilgai in the morning;
and had kept his Kill. He was anticipating that the Tiger might come to eat his
Kill. We were just roaming around the place. He even showed us the Carcass
about 100 meters away (which we could not have identified otherwise).
Since there were no signs, our Guide decided to move away to
some another area. And the oncoming Gypsy guide informed us that Tiger is
spotted near his Kill.
Tailing The Tiger
The way our driver has U-turned the vehicle & he drove
it on those bumpy roads, we still have Goosebumps even today. This will be
remembered for another reason; I came to know later that my wallet has lost. I
am sure it fell off in the jungle during this rollercoaster.
And we spotted Him – 18 month old Male Tiger Cub. He wanted
to go to his Kill. But he was taking his own sweet time, giving us a full
opportunity to observe him. He was totally careless about large crowd gathered
around him. He damned nothing & truly showing a spirit of the King of the
Jungle. Initially he rested under a tree, then marched slowly & stopped
again few meters ahead. Then he disappeared from our sight as he moved much
ahead, crossed the road and came towards his kill (and in our view). For next
half an hour, he savored his dinner. Finally, at 5 pm our time came to end and
hence we started off. He was still there.
This was an awesome experience. Trailing a Tiger for about
half an hour, then spotting him & finally watching him for the next whole
one hour. My previous two Safaris didn’t succeed in spotting a Tiger (Jim
Corbett & Periyar). This time we were lucky.
Once the news about Tiger Spotting spread, there were around
10-15 Gypsys in the area. And actually, He just didn’t cared.
It is advisable that one should leave immediately after 5 pm
because later on all the Gypsys start to move out making the environment
heavily dusty.
Two big blows came up. We came to our hotel & I came to
know that I have lost the wallet (cash of about Rs. 3000, Credit Cards &
Driving License). Then we were relaxing and another big blow came-up –
Demonetization by our PM.
November 9, 2016:
In morning after a quick breakfast, we started off with most
of our cash in 500s & 1000s. We witnessed our share of hardships – problem
at Toll Plazas, Restaurant not accepting 500s & 1000s & also not having
Card facility, a very brief Raasta Roko by truckers in front of Petrol Pump.
Our destination was Udaipur, however on the way we were to visit
the mighty Chittorgarh. It is about 300 kms from Sawai Madhopur.
There goes a saying in Rajputana - गढोमेंगढ़चित्तौड, बाकीसबगढ़ाईया (Chittod is the ONLY Fort; everything else are just the
hillocks). Chittorgarh indeed is one of the largest fort in India (some say
even Asia).
Chittorgarh has a magical confluence of Bhakti & Shakti
Movement. It is associated with two of the great human beings in Indian
History. Saint Meerabai who led the Bhakti tradition & Maharana Pratap who
cherished a dream of reconquering Chittorgarh from Akbar.
It was initially named Chitrakut after its founder
Chitrangada Mori. In 7th century, it came under possession of Bappa
Rawal, founder of Mewar Kingdom. With brief interruptions, the Fort remained in
possession of Mewar Kingdom & was their Capital for next 8 centuries.
The fort is a witness to 3 Jauhars – the ultimate sacrifice.
If Rajputs were attacked by enemy, and there were no chance of survival, the
men-folk used to go ahead with suicide attacks with a motive to cause maximum
damage to the enemy & their women back home committed mass self-immolation
to avoid dishonor at the hands of enemy.
In 1303, Rani Padmini (wife of Rawal Ratan Singh) led first
Jauhar of Chittorgarh when Allauddin Khilji led a siege.
2nd Jouhar was led by Rani Karnawati (widow of
Rana Sanga) in 1535 when the kingdom was attacked by Bahadur Shah of Gujarat.
There is a legend that Rani Karnawati had sent a Rakhi to Mughal Emperor
Humayun for assistance. Humayun even responded, but could not reach in time.
3rd time again, Chittorgarh had to witness
another unfortunate Jauhar. This time it was when Akbar attacked in 1567.
Chittorgarh is witness to such bravery & sacrifices for
freedom. Amer which did peace treaties with Mughals, Chittorgarh fought till
the last becoming a ruined citadel.
Rana Kumbha ascended to the throne in 14th
century. Mewar flourished during his reign. He built many forts in the kingdom.
He built Vijay Stambha (Tower of Victory) to commemorate his victory over
combined forces of Malwa & Gujarat.
During 16th century, Mughals had started to gain
their entry & establish presence in India. Rana Sanga led a combined Rajput
forces against Babur, but was defeated. His son Rana Udai Singh was taken to
safety at Bundi along with his nursemaid Panna Dai. He was attacked by his
uncle Banbir to gain the throne; Panna Dai sacrificed her own son & saved
the life of heir to the throne. He was coronated as Rana in 1540. During 1567,
when Akbar invaded Chittorgarh, he shifted the Mewar Capital to Udaipur. He
felt the need on account of multiple attacks on Chittorgarh & emergence of
artillery warfare. A more secure place was required as a Capital.
His son, Maharana Pratap, acceded as the King in 1572. He
devoted his whole life in getting Chittorgarh back to its glory. He fought with
Akbar all through. There was time when all his territories (Udaipur, Chitttod,
Kumbhalgad) were captured by Mughals & he lived hiding within jungles &
mountains; even survived on bread made of wild grass.
The might of Chittorgarh can be visible from the road as we
reach nearer to the Chittod town. The Fort is vastly spread; however, not very
high. The mighty fortified walls are clearly visible a artistic tower.
Vehicles can go upto the top. The road passes through 7
gates – Padan Pol, Bhairon Pol, Hanuman Pol, Ganesh Pol, Jodla Pol, Laxman Pol
& Ram Pol (the main gate). However, this was not the main entry route. The
main gate of the Fort is on opposite side – Suraj Pol. This route has steps
till the top.
Entry ticket is Rs. 15 per adult & Rs. 20 per vehicle.
We also hired a Guide; charges were Rs. 750 (Rs. 500 for a short tour).
After passing through Ram Pol, first site is the Kumbha
Palace. Most of it is in ruins. Ruins of Diwan-e-Aam & Diwan-e-Khaas are
also seen. Most of the area is now converted into a garden.
Kumbha Palace - now in ruins
Kumbha-Shyam Temple & Meera Temple
Ahead from here is the temple complex – Meera Temple & Kumbha-Shyam
Temple. These have exquisite carvings on them. However, these are severely
damaged by several Mughal attackers. Faces of all sculptures are damaged.
Saint Meera-bai used to worship Lord Krishna here. The
famous tale of Meera surviving after drinking poison took place here.
Kumbha-Shyam Temple is dedicated to Lord Varah. Both these
temples were built during reign of Rana Kumbha. However, the main idols of both
temples were taken to Udaipur, to safeguard them against constant attacks.
Vijay Stambha is one structure which is one of the
identities to Chittorgarh. This 9 storeyed Victory Monument was constructed by
Rana Kumbha to celebrate his victory over Mahmud Khilji led armies of Malwa
& Gujarat. The tower is dumb-bell shaped with narrowing in centre &
spreading out at bottom & top. This type of design is unique for a tower.
It is decorated with thousands of sculptures outside as well as inside.
It is 37 meters tall & can be reached at top through 150
steps; however, at this time entry inside was not allowed due to some
restoration work.
The area surrounding Vijay Stambha is where the famous
Jauhar led by Rani Padmini took place.
Famous song of Hindi Film “Guide” was shot here – “Aaj Phir
Jeene Ki Tamanna Hai”.
Area by the side of Vijay Stambha where Jauhar took place
Finally, we reached the most famous highlight of this Fort,
Rani Padmini Palace. The legend has made this place eternal in the history.
Rani Padmini Palace on left; Jal Mahal on right
Allauddin Khilji was fascinated by the stories of beauty of
Rani Padmini. He attacked Chittorgarh & laid a siege. But when he realized
that it is almost impossible to win Chittorgarh, he sent a message to the King,
Rawal Ratan Singh. He proposed his wish to see the Queen once, since he has
heard of her beauty; after this, he will leave. After much deliberation, Ratan
Singh agreed; but to see the Queen in a reflection. This would fulfill
Allauddin’s wish as well maintain the veil tradition of a woman.
Arrangements were made in Rani Padmini’s Palace. Mirror was
placed in such a way that the Rani Padmini would be sitting about 80 feet away
on the steps of Jal-Mahal. Allauddin could view her face reflecting over the
water surface onto the mirror. However, the arrangement was such that direct
viewing was not possible. Allauddin was told that if he tried to bypass this
arrangement, he would be killed.
After Allauddin saw the Queen, while he was returning back,
he deceitfully captured Ratan Singh. He demanded Rani Padmini to be handed over
to him to sought release of the King. Rajput soldiers attacked Khilji’s camp in
palanquins (thought to be of Rani Padmini’s assemblage) and rescued Ratan
Singh. The battle that ensued resulted into death of Ratan Singh & a certain
defeat of the Rajputs. Since, the defeat was evident, Rani Padmini led first
Jauhar of this fort. All men led suicide missions to cause maximum damage. It
is said that when Khilji entered the fort he could just see a mass pyre of
thousands of women.
However, there is a debate on truth of this Mirror /
Reflection Story. This forms the basis of an epic poem Padmavat by Malik
Muhammad Jayasi. Doubt is because this poem was written about 250 years after
the actual incidence in the year 1303. Secondly, Allauddin Khilji had attacked
Chittorgarh twice before this, since year 1299. Both times he suffered massive
defeats at the hands of Rajputs. So there was no need for Rajputs to give-in
for his inappropriate demand during his 3rd attack.
Rani Padmini’s Palace seems to be very recent structure. It
was re-built very recently in 19th century. The legend of Rani
Padmini’s glimpse to Allauddin Khilji can be witnessed here with placement of
Mirror.
From here we moved towards other side of Fort. It has the
main entrance of the Fort – Suraj Pol.
View from Suraj Pol, the other side of Fort
Apart from these, there are many structures which we gave a
miss – Kirti Stambha, Jain Temple, Kalika Mata Temple, Fateh Prakash Mahal. The
Fort is once said to have 84 water bodies which were the primary source for an
army of 50,000 people. Now 22 of them are now present. Most famous amongst them
is the Bheemlat Kund – formed by Bheema when he struck his foot here.
At present there are about 400 people leaving on the Fort.
The Fort is Fish-shaped & is divided into three main
parts – Govt. Buildings on one side, all the attractions & sight-seeings in
the centre & a Deer Park towards other end.
After this trip to glorious past, we commence our onward
journey to Udaipur, about 120 kms away.
November 10,
2016:
The main attraction in Udaipur is its City Palace. This City
Palace is divided into 3 parts – one is where the Royal Family still live,
second is converted in to a Star Hotel & the third portion is open to
Public. There is even a School inside.
The City Palace is built on the banks of Pichola Lake.
Though the construction started in 1553 by Maharana Udai Singh II (founder of
Udaipur), it has been regularly developed by series of various Rulers for the
next 400 years. The Palace is built around a small hillock; though it doesn’t
seem so as you enter. But as you rise till the fourth floor, which seems a
terrace, there are large trees over here. It seems a surprise that such large
trees have grown on a terrace; actually these trees are on this hillock.
Surprise, Surprise - Trees on the 4th Floor
Entrance to the City Palace is through large triple-arch
gate – Tripolia. Entry ticket for Adult is Rs. 250, for Child is Rs. 100 &
for Camera is Rs. 250. We also hired a Guide for Rs. 250.
When passed through Tripolia Gate, there is a open courtyard
– Manak Chowk. This used to be Diwan-e-Aam. From here we entered inside. There
is a network of narrow passages which take us through assortment of courtyards,
pavilions, terraces, balconies, corridors, rooms & even gardens built by
various Rulers over a period of time. From outside it looks like a flamboyant
building with artistic domes, towering towers & beautiful arches. It is an
architectural marvel of Rajasthan & even largest palace in the state. It
took us a little more than 2 hours to complete this tour.
The palace has a gallery dedicated to Maharana Pratap; with
his weapons & armour, photos & paintings, maps depicting Battle of
Haldighati & information about his beloved horse, Chetak.
Few noteworthy palaces and chambers are Mor Chowk (also used
to be Diwan-e-Khaas) – has elaborate designs of three Peacocks depicting three
seasons; these are crafted with 5000 glass pieces, Sheesh Mahal – known for its
mirror designs, Dilkhush Mahal – with its multi-colored glass windows creating
a sense of joy as you enter, Moti Mahal – decorated with mirrors & tiles.
Mor Chowk
The view from inside is mesmerizing – Udaipur city on one
side & Lake Pichola on other. Lake Pichola is the primary lake of Udaipur
(also called as City of Lakes). It is called so because it is behind the City
Palace (पीछे).
Lake Pichola
Udaipur City
During entry inside the Palace at Manak Chowk we saw some
preparations going on – a Shamiyana being erected – like some function. When
enquired with our Guide, he informed these are the wedding preparations. The
Palace is available for Wedding Celebrations at the cost of about Rs. 1.25
Crore for 3 days of ceremony package (liquor extra).
Near City Palace is Jagdish Temple, dedicated to Lord
Jagannath. Presence of such large temple with exquisite sculptures is hard to
believe in a crowded locality around. It was built by Maharana Jagat Singh in
1651. Need to climb about 30-odd large steps to reach. It is said to be largest
temple of Udaipur.
City Palace is the major & most visited tourist
attraction of Udaipur. It is also a time consuming place, if decided to cover
it in detail.
After our lunch, we moved for a Puppet Show at Bharatiya Lok
Kala Mandal. It has museum which displays everything about Puppets. Apart from
Strings Puppets, there are Rod Puppets, Shadow Puppets, Water Puppets, Finger
Puppets, Hand Puppets. I saw many for the first time. There were Puppets from
various Regions of India and also from other Countries. There is a Puppet
Theatre where Puppet Shows are held every half an hour. Duration is about 20
mins.
And all this for a meager ticket of Rs. 40. I thought the
institute is doing a commendable job in keeping this old art form alive.
However, the condition of Museum needs an improvement.
For the evening, we had two options – Light & Sound Show
at City Palace or Rope-way Ride. Since we had seen L&S Show at Jaipur, we
preferred Rope-way Ride.
By the banks of Doodh Talai (Lake) a Rope Way is constructed
towards a hillock. Tickets are Rs. 100 for adult & Rs. 50 for child. Ticket
is for return trip. A short ride of 2-3 minutes is beautiful, with splendid
view of Doodh Talai, Lake Pichola, City Palace and Jag Mandir. Once on top, the
view of Jaipur on other side is also worth watching.
Doodh Talai in foreground, Lake Pichola on left & City Palace on right
This is the best place to watch a sunset with setting of
Lake Pichola & its islands in the fore.
The Panorama
At the top, there is a canteen to have a cup of coffee &
snacks. A few steps above is the Karni Mata Temple (Mansha Poori Karne-wali
Maa). Also a Dargah is present.
After a tiring tour, we retired back to our hotel. There are
few more attractions in Udaipur which we skipped for paucity of time –
Saheliyon Ki Bari, Vintage Car Museum, Bagore Ki Haveli (Cultural Program),
Light & Sound Show.
November 10,
2016:
Morning, we started for Ajmer & Pushkar; sort of twin
cities with twin religious importance. Ajmer is about 260 kms from Udaipur
& Pushkar is 11 kms further.
Ajmer, originally Ajaymeru, is the city of Prithviraj
Chauhan. It was the Capital of Chahamana (Chauhan) Dynasty. Ajaymeru Fort was
built in 8th century by King Ajayaraja I while the city was built
gradually over the period, finally developed into capital by Ajayaraja II.
Finally in 1192, it came under Muslim rule after defeat of Prithviraj Chauhan
against Muhammad of Ghori.
Today, Ajmer is famous for Dargah Ajmer Sharif, shrine of Sufi
Saint Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti. Moinuddin Chisti was born in Afganistan & was
a direct descendent of Prophet Mohammad. He came to India after a dream in
which The Prophet guided him to do so. He reached Ajmer & settled here. He
garnered substantial following. He died in 12th century in Ajmer;
his tomb is the famous Dargah Sharif.
It is from here that various disciples branched out &
the Chisti Order was spread far & wide in South Asia. Nizamuddin Dargah in
Delhi is dedicated to one such disciple. Ajmer Sharif the Principle Dargah
among several Dargahs established from Sindh in Pakistan upto Bengal in east
& Deccan Plateau in South.
During reign of Akbar in 15th century, Ajmer
& the Tomb of Moinuddin Chisti emerged as a popular pilgrimage site. Akbar
himself, along with his wife, used to come here from Agra to Ajmer every year
as a vow when he prayed for a son. The large pillars (minars) are constructed
at every 2 miles (3 kms) along the entire way from Agra to Ajmer. These pillars
mark the place of rest where royal pilgrims halted every day.
November 11,
2016:
In the morning, we started for Pushkar, about 11 kms from
Ajmer. It is renowned for its Brahma Temple which is said to be the only one in
the world. Actually, it is one of the very few temples of Brahma. It is one of
the oldest existing cities of India. It is referred a Teerth-Raj – King of
Pilgrimage Sites.
Pushkar is also famous for its lake – Pushkar Lake. As per
mythology, it was formed from tears of Lord Shiva. When Goddess Sati died, Lord
Shiva cried so much for so long & his tears formed two lakes – one is in
Pakistan (Katas Raj Temple) while other is here in Pushkar.
It is also said that Lord Brahma wanted to perform a Yagna.
While searching for a place he came across a demon, Vajranash, who was killing
people. Using a Lotus, Brahma killed the demon. The pieces of Lotus Flower fell
down and formed a Lake – Pushkar (Pushpa-Flower + Kar-Hands). To perform Yadna,
Brahma didn’t had his wife, Savitri, along. Hence he married a Gurjar girl,
Gayatri. This angered Savitri & she cursed Brahma that he will be
worshipped only at Pushkar & nowhere else. Hence it is said that Lord
Brahma’s temple is only at Pushkar.
The Lake is surrounded with about 50 ghats. Pilgrims use
these to take the sacred bath. The area is flocked by many priests who offer to
perform Poojas, Shradhs, etc. I had a feeling that everything had gone
commercial. They were trying to trick the tourists into getting some pooja done
& extort money in the form of Dakshinas.
Brahma Temple is just like any other. Situated inside busy
market place, this 14th century temple doesn’t seem any special.
Actually, my perception of this temple being only one in the world was very
different. Though the present temple is comparatively recent one, the original
was said to be built 2000 years ago. The temple is constructed on high plinth
accessible through large marble steps. The main temple structure inside is
colorful, with blue pillars & red dome. The principal deity of the temple
is Lord Brahma with his second wife Gayatri. His first wife Savitri is said to
have left after cursing him; her temple is on a hill nearby.
Market around Brahma Temple
Another attraction of this place is the Pushkar Camel Fair
(or Pushkar ka Mela). It is an annual festival lasting for 5 days from Kartik
Ekadashi to Kartik Poornima (normally in the month of November). It is said to
be one of the world’s largest camel fairs.
Apart from a Camel & Livestock fair, it is famous for
various competions like Camel races, longest moustache & even a Cricket
match nowadays.
There are multiple roadside shops which attract men, women
& kids alike.
By afternoon, we started
for our return journey. On our way back, we came across a place called Budha
Pushkar. It is a lake, which was dried-up at this time. It is a Holy Lake whose
historicity is said to be more ancient than even that of the much revered
Pushkar Lake.
We had over evening flight
for home from Jaipur. We reached Jaipur (about 150 kms) by about 5 pm. By 10 pm
we were home, thus ending our journey to this Royal Land.
