Shaniwar-wada has always been a true Identity of Pune. It is emblematic to the rich cultural heritage of the region.
Shaniwar-wada was the seat of Peshwas (Prime Minister) of Maratha Empire until 1818. Peshwas being de-facto leaders of Marathas this was the place which, in late 17th Century, virtually ruled entire India - well almost. Even Delhi was under the control of Marathas - दिल्लीचेही तख्त राखितो, महाराष्ट्र माझा (a Marathi song praising Maharashtra).
Shaniwar-wada witnessed the golden period of Maratha dynasty. From Cuttack (Orissa) till Attock (in present day Pakistan), from Northern banks of Sindhu (Indus River) to Southern banks of Cauvery, all was under Maratha control. This was time when Delhi (Red Fort), Burhanpur (Mughal Empire's gateway into Deccan), Golconda (Seat of the Nizams) and Aurangabad (Aurangazeb's base in Deccan), all had Saffron fluttering over them. Once a Power House of Maratha Empire, Shaniwar-wada also witnessed their fall - Peshwa Narayanrao was mercilessly killed in a conspiracy hatched by his uncle Raghunathrao; this happened within these walls, in 1818 Marathas lost the 3rd Anglo-Maratha War resulting into fall of Maratha Empire; Shaniwar-wada came under the control of British. Once a magnum-opus residence of its Prime Minister, was now converted to a Police Station and a Mental Hospital. In 1828, massive fire gutted down the entire structure. This inferno lasted for a week (Shaniwar-wada was burning for 7 days). It is believed that the fire started from a Kitchen of Mental Hospital. For next 100 years, the place remained in a dilapidated state. It was in 1921 when Prince of Wales was to visit India and in Pune, that the place was cleaned-up and remains of Mental Hospital were removed. I think we should thank the Prince for this, atleast today visitors won't see a Mental Hospital inside this heritage.
A dream of an official residence of the Peshwas was nurtured by Bajirao-I (Balaji Bajirao). His ambition was to take मराठी जरिपटका (the Saffron Flag) to rule entire India; and Red Fort (Delhi) ruled India during that time. This is the reason, Shaniwar-wada was built with its North facing Main Gate, called दिल्ली दरवाजा (Delhi Darwaza). It was very beautifully decorated / coloured. However, today slight impressions of these designs can seen, if observed carefully.
The bhoomi-poojan (ceremonial foundation) was done on January 10, 1730. It was a Saturday - hence the name (Shaniwar - Saturday; Wada - residential complex). It was completed in 1732. Initially Peshwa Bajirao-I had built small residential structure. It didn't had any fortification which we see today. Actually, they say Chhatrapati Shahu instructed to build fortification of Chest (Valour) & not from Stones (कोट छातीचे नाही, तर मातीचे करा). Over the years Shaniwar-wada grew & developed to a strong bastion.
Peshwa Bajirao-I's son, Peshwa Nanasaheb, is the architect of Shaniwar-wada what we see today. This was the Golden Era of Marathas. He built the stone fortification around the Wada. There are 5 gates and 9 bastions in this fortification.
Above Main Gate is the Nagar-Khana. Teak Wooden frames & arches are still intact here. Equestrian Statue of Peshwa Bajirao-I facing towards Delhi looks very awesome from here. On the opposite side, is the view of inner Gardens. On both sides of Nagar-Khana, there is an exit over the fortification walls. One can walk around the Wada over it.
Once inside one can see only the remains of a magnificent building complex once stood here. Some of its structures were as high as 7 storeyed. It is said that at its peak, about 1000 people lived here. Signs are visible everywhere. The structure was mainly wooden; with use of Teak Wood, exquisite display of art was present in its arches and pillars. After its destruction during British attack and then the fire, the wooden structure was destroyed leaving behind its stone foundation. This foundation can be seen today.
There are well laid out boards explaining about name & importance of each place / buildings.
Buildings:
Apart from these, there are places like संध्येचा चौक (place to carry out a brahmin ritual), रहाटाचा बंगला (a Well to take out water in nearby), गोदुबाई चा निवास (separate residence for Peshwa Nanasaheb's brother's widow). There used to be a fountain below Ganesh Mahal and also a Water Tank (हौद) nearby which had a provision of making colorful lighting using colored glasses and water stream fell over them.
Shaniwar-wada was the seat of Peshwas (Prime Minister) of Maratha Empire until 1818. Peshwas being de-facto leaders of Marathas this was the place which, in late 17th Century, virtually ruled entire India - well almost. Even Delhi was under the control of Marathas - दिल्लीचेही तख्त राखितो, महाराष्ट्र माझा (a Marathi song praising Maharashtra).
Shaniwar-wada witnessed the golden period of Maratha dynasty. From Cuttack (Orissa) till Attock (in present day Pakistan), from Northern banks of Sindhu (Indus River) to Southern banks of Cauvery, all was under Maratha control. This was time when Delhi (Red Fort), Burhanpur (Mughal Empire's gateway into Deccan), Golconda (Seat of the Nizams) and Aurangabad (Aurangazeb's base in Deccan), all had Saffron fluttering over them. Once a Power House of Maratha Empire, Shaniwar-wada also witnessed their fall - Peshwa Narayanrao was mercilessly killed in a conspiracy hatched by his uncle Raghunathrao; this happened within these walls, in 1818 Marathas lost the 3rd Anglo-Maratha War resulting into fall of Maratha Empire; Shaniwar-wada came under the control of British. Once a magnum-opus residence of its Prime Minister, was now converted to a Police Station and a Mental Hospital. In 1828, massive fire gutted down the entire structure. This inferno lasted for a week (Shaniwar-wada was burning for 7 days). It is believed that the fire started from a Kitchen of Mental Hospital. For next 100 years, the place remained in a dilapidated state. It was in 1921 when Prince of Wales was to visit India and in Pune, that the place was cleaned-up and remains of Mental Hospital were removed. I think we should thank the Prince for this, atleast today visitors won't see a Mental Hospital inside this heritage.
A dream of an official residence of the Peshwas was nurtured by Bajirao-I (Balaji Bajirao). His ambition was to take मराठी जरिपटका (the Saffron Flag) to rule entire India; and Red Fort (Delhi) ruled India during that time. This is the reason, Shaniwar-wada was built with its North facing Main Gate, called दिल्ली दरवाजा (Delhi Darwaza). It was very beautifully decorated / coloured. However, today slight impressions of these designs can seen, if observed carefully.
The bhoomi-poojan (ceremonial foundation) was done on January 10, 1730. It was a Saturday - hence the name (Shaniwar - Saturday; Wada - residential complex). It was completed in 1732. Initially Peshwa Bajirao-I had built small residential structure. It didn't had any fortification which we see today. Actually, they say Chhatrapati Shahu instructed to build fortification of Chest (Valour) & not from Stones (कोट छातीचे नाही, तर मातीचे करा). Over the years Shaniwar-wada grew & developed to a strong bastion.
Peshwa Bajirao-I's son, Peshwa Nanasaheb, is the architect of Shaniwar-wada what we see today. This was the Golden Era of Marathas. He built the stone fortification around the Wada. There are 5 gates and 9 bastions in this fortification.
- To the North is Delhi Darwaja - this is the Main Entrance. It is guarded by two bastions on its sides. It is so large to allow elephants carrying Howdah / Ambari to enter inside. The Gates also have sharp spikes to avoid charging elephants in case of an attack. In case of a fall, if enemy barged inside, there was no straight entry. Behind the Gate is a strong wall. Enemy would have to take 'Z' turn, reducing its speed. Above this is false ceiling mechanism, supported by make-shift wooden columns. Ceiling is filled with mud, stones. The Maratha Defense just have to break these wooden columns, causing the ceiling to fall down on attacking enemy. They would get trapped inside the stones and mud and would also make difficult for other enemy attackers to come inside.
- There is another Gate facing North - towards North-East is the Mastani Darwaja (or Ali Bahadur Darwaza) - Peshwa Bajirao-I's 2nd wife, Mastani, used this Gate.
- Facing East is Khidki Darwaja.
- Facing East, towards South-East corner is Ganesh Darwaja - there used to be Ganesh Mahal in the vicinity; also it was used by people to visit the Kasaba Ganapti (which is Gram-Daivat of Pune). Just outside this Gate on outer side of fortification wall is a Ganesh Temple by the name Peshwe Ganpati.
- Facing South is Jambhul Darwaja (Narayan Darwaja) - This gate was used by concubines. The name got changed after Peshwa Narayanrao was murdered by attackers on orders from Raghunathrao. His body is said to have cut into pieces. Those pieces were filled in a sack & it was taken out from this Gate for cremation.
- There is no Gate facing West. During those days, there used to be a River called Amba. It is no longer present today, instead, Bajirao Road goes parallel to this wall. Ambil Odha (canal) which is still present in another part of city today, must have been a part of this Amba River. To avoid flood waters entering inside, no Gate was provided in this direction.
Above Main Gate is the Nagar-Khana. Teak Wooden frames & arches are still intact here. Equestrian Statue of Peshwa Bajirao-I facing towards Delhi looks very awesome from here. On the opposite side, is the view of inner Gardens. On both sides of Nagar-Khana, there is an exit over the fortification walls. One can walk around the Wada over it.
There are well laid out boards explaining about name & importance of each place / buildings.
Buildings:
- Mastani Mahal: Immediately at left corner after entering inside the Main Gate was residence of Mastani (near Mastani Darwaja).
- कचेरी चा खण / चौक (Office Area) - This was the area where Office Staff used to sit & work; locals used to visit these Clerks for their issues. This was located at central location - walking straight ahead from the Main Gate.
- चाफे खण - This place was behind the Office Area. Fadnavis or the Head Administrator used to sit here. Even Peshwa used to sit & meet people at a place nearby this.
- गौरी चा सोपा - Behind Chafe Khan, this was the place for Royal Ladies. Gauri-Ganpati festival used to be celebrated here. Ladies used to celebrate all their annual festivals, rituals and savor food here.
- राघोबा चा वाडा - To the right used to be residential place of Peshwa Raghunathrao
- गणेश महाल - Also known as Ganesh Rang Mahal, was one of the very colourful & extravagant structure of the Wada. It used to be the Diwan-Khana or the Main Darbar Hall. It was built by Peshwa Nanasaheb & the Peshwa Darbar used to gather here. Peshwa Sawai Madhavrao used to live above Ganesh Mahal. He died at a very young age by falling down from his window over a fountain below. The reason, however, is a mystery - whether it was a suicide or he lost his balance (as he was not well at that time).
- हजारी कारंजे - Wada had multiple fountains inside, prominent among them is the Hajari Karanje (Fountain with a Thousand jets). It was said to have constructed for pleasure of infant Peshwa Sawai Madhavrao. Constructed into Lotus shaped design, it had a complicated & intricate design resulting into about 1000 jets of water. Today, this as well as other fountains are revived using modern piping system. These are ON during a Sound, Light & Laser Show every evening after 7.15 pm.
Apart from these, there are places like संध्येचा चौक (place to carry out a brahmin ritual), रहाटाचा बंगला (a Well to take out water in nearby), गोदुबाई चा निवास (separate residence for Peshwa Nanasaheb's brother's widow). There used to be a fountain below Ganesh Mahal and also a Water Tank (हौद) nearby which had a provision of making colorful lighting using colored glasses and water stream fell over them.
Apart from Ganesh Mahal, there were few more - थोरल्या रायांचा दिवाणखाना (Darbar Hall of Peshwa Bajirao), Dance Hall, आरसे महाल (Mirror Hall).
A Bastion at the South-East corner near Ganesh Darwaza, was called as खजिन्याचा बुरूज. The name because, below the bastion used to be water storage for usage inside Shaniwar Wada.
A Bastion at the South-East corner near Ganesh Darwaza, was called as खजिन्याचा बुरूज. The name because, below the bastion used to be water storage for usage inside Shaniwar Wada.
They say the place is haunted. Peshwa Narayanrao's assassination is a heart-wrenching narrative of greed & betrayal; and some people have weaved a ghost-story, a rumour around this Place. On a Full Moon Night, noises are heard inside the Wada, the last words of Narayanrao - काका मला वाचवा !!! (Uncle, save me !!!).
This is a sad state of affairs that the place which once ruled entire India, today lies in a dilapidated state. However, conditions are improving. Many people are visiting nowadays. A Sound, Light & Laser Show is also started. Heritage Walks do happen. The site is already in the itinerary of Pune Darshan bus service.
This is a sad state of affairs that the place which once ruled entire India, today lies in a dilapidated state. However, conditions are improving. Many people are visiting nowadays. A Sound, Light & Laser Show is also started. Heritage Walks do happen. The site is already in the itinerary of Pune Darshan bus service.
Thanks for sharing kaustubh.
ReplyDeleteVery well researched and written.
Thank you so much...
DeleteRegret the delay.... I missed it earlier.