Showing posts with label Pune-Nashik Road (NH-50). Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pune-Nashik Road (NH-50). Show all posts

Saturday, 4 January 2014

Mecca Of Trekkers - Kokan-kada @ Harishchandragad_December 28-29, 2013

There are very few places on this Planet that one must visit at least once in a lifetime - the place to be visited before you die.

Harishchandragad is one such place, not more than 150 kms from Pune. And it is because of its magnanimous Kokan Kada. It is aptly said to be भटक्यांची पंढरी in Marathi (means the Mecca of Wanderers / Trekkers).

Like thousands of Nomads in Maharashtra, visiting Harishchandragad had been in my mind every since my early college days when I had heard about its Kokan-kada from my friends then.

We started from Pune at 5.00 am. Taking other friends along we stopped for a breakfast at Narayangaon (on Pune-Nashik Highway - NH-50). At Narayanpur we took left towards Junnar and then to Khireshwar (off Khubi Phata). Last 4 kms along the Pimpalgaon Joga Dam is pathetic. The complete endurance testing of the vehicle suspension.

We reached Khireshwar, base village for Harishchandragad. We parked our vehicles there at a local hotel. Had some tea and started off our trek at 10.30 am.

It is a long trek. Takes about 5-6 hours to reach the top. It is not difficult, but definitely exhaustive. There is a small rock-patch, which is a slightly difficult portion. However, the whole trek-experience is just awesome. Passing over the large boulders, within a thick cover of green forest, difficult rock patches, etc was a bliss.

Route is like this (also explained the photo above) - Khireshwar to Tolar Khind. At Tolar Khind, another route from Kotul (Ahmednagar district) connects. This can be identified by stone sculpture of a tiger (व्याघ्रशिल्प). From here is the famous Rock Patch of Harishchandragad. After the Rock Patch, the route is quiet simple only without the tree cover. So far the route was through the dense trees.
There is another simpler route - from Paachnai. It takes only 2 hours to reach the temple complex (as against 5 hours from Khireshwar). However, Paachnai is about 50 kms more than Khireshwar, if coming from Pune. And secondly, the fun of an exhaustive trek can be experienced only from Khireshwar route.

2-3 more routes are there shown in map above. But these are extremely difficult. Not many are aware of these. Better to take a knowing person along these.

Being an exhaustive trek, the best way to reach here is winter season. Keep adequate amount of water. Since this has to be an overnight trek, some ready to cook food (like Maggi, Rice), utensils. Not to forget bedding as well.

We reached the Temple Complex at the top by 3.30 pm; after a rocking 5 hours. The Harishchandreshwar Temple is at the centre which comes to sight as we near the site. It is surrounded by few small temples, a big water body (a pond) and many caves. These caves are used for staying at night by the visitors here. 
Harishchandreshwar Temple
Being a week-end, we found many temporary shacks by the nearby villagers. They come here on holidays and sell food for the visitors. Even tents and bedding are provided on rent. It is becoming a commercial attraction. No need to carry heavy trekking bags filled with bedding, food & utensils as we did. Everything is available.

We located a cave at the far end. Because of week-end, there was heavy rush and most of the caves were occupied. We were lucky to have one available; & that was awesome, with a water tank just next to it and a place in front to set-up our Chool (चूल) for cooking.
Caves on the top
After having some food, which we had carried along - Sandwitches, Bananas, Biscuits, etc, we started for Konkan-kada.
Temple Complex - view from top (enroute Kokan-kada)
I was just waiting to see the place which I'd longed for so long. Same was the feeling in everybody else in our group except 3-4 guys who had been here earlier. We reached there in half an hour from Temple Complex.

Kokan-kada is the place which has fascinated many trekkers for so many years. It faces the West & hence Sun-set is enduring here. So it has to be visited in the evenings to see the God going down. Only luck should be favoring and the clouds / fog can be spoil-sport.

When we visited, there was thick covering of clouds. We missed the sun-set. However, still this couldn't snatch away the beauty of the place.

The view from here is ... ... ... actually there are no words, no adjective can give justice to the beauty of this place, no noun can explain its awesomeness. I did click few photos, but even no photo could capture this place in completeness.


Kokan-kada is actually a "C" Shaped cliff and not just vertical, but also an overhang. Just like a hood of a Cobra. It is so high, the one cannot overlook down it, standing. One has to sleep-over and then lean; even that is frightening.

Some photos are below, however a caveat: these photos are nothing compared to the actual:






Cobra hood (overhang) is clearly seen here -
taken by leaning over the cliff, my heart was pumping while
doing this ... ;-)
I was / am still mesmerised by the view. A feeling was coming to just stay here till eternity. One can find many people like me in Maharashtra who have came back with this feeling.
Just hear the sound of heavy wind in the above video

From here we turned back for our night abode. We had an awesome dinner prepared over a Chool (चूल) by burning the wood-sticks & twigs which we had collected during our return journey.

Night was chilly, however the cave where we were placed was covered, had sufficient place for 10 people & hence warmed-up. The flooring was, however, uneven. Not to forget, we had unexpected visitors - two large fully grown mice were in our cave while we were away at Kokan-kada. We had to frighten them out. And then during preparing our dinner, we had a snake, a small one. It slipped away in the woods.

After "peaceful" sleep, Kokan-kada was still calling us. We again headed there for one last visit before we leave. Filled it up in our eyes, mind, heart & soul and with actually a heavy heart, returned.

Before leaving the fort, we visited the Harishchandreshwar Temple. This is the main temple of the Fort.


Temple is built in Black Stone many centuries ago. It is said that Saint Changdev used to meditate in the caves here during 14th century. There is one stone inscription about Saint Changdev at the entrance of the temple.

Temple is surrounded by many caves & water cisterns. Trekkers use these spots for overnight stay.

On left side wall of the temple after you enter, there is the famous Ganesh idol. The orange colored idol with the back ground & surroundings of Black Stone looks beautiful. This photo is very famous on the internet.

River Mangal Ganga originates from one of the tanks near this temple. Little ahead of Harishchandreshwar temple by the side of this river is another interesting spot. Again, very famous photo on internet representing Harishchandragad - Kedareshwar Cave & Shiv-Linga. This is a huge cave with a huge Shiv-Linga at the centre surrounded by waist-deep water. Water is ice-cold. Really chilly.
Four pillars are built around Shiv-Linga. Legend says that 4 pillars represent each Yuga (Satyug, Tretayug, Dwaparyug & Kaliyug). When a pillar is destroyed, the Yuga ends. Kaliyug is the current phase. The day 4th pillar breaks down, it will be the last day of this era (world will come to an end).
Kedareshwar Cave & Shiv-Linga
We started our return journey. Took the same route back. We reached Khireshwar at 4.30 pm. Since the ladies were still to come, we decided to visit Nageshwar temple which about a km from the village.

It holds a beautiful sculpture of Lord Vishnu in sleeping posture... Shesh-shayee.
Shesh-shayee Vishnu
After stomach full of home made Pithala-Bhakari in the village, we started off our return journey at 6.00 pm. Reached home by 10.00 pm.



















Monday, 16 September 2013

Chavand Fort a.k.a. Prasannagad - August 25, 2013

It was our long awaited Photography Club Excursion. Actually I heard this fort for the first time - Chaavand Fort a.k.a. Prasannagad.

The region where this fort is located - near Junnar - has the history that goes back to 1000 years, the Satvahana era. There are 5 forts & Fortresses in this region - Hadsar, Shivneri, Jivdhan, Naneghat & Chaavand, the Famous Five. Chaavand Fort has the remnants of construction that is about 800 years old. It is one of the oldest forts amongst the treasure of 350 odd forts of Maharashtra.

We started off at 7.30 am (I took the bus from Alka Talkies, Pune). We took the Pune-Nashik (NH-50) Highway. There is a left for Junnar from Narayangaon. As you reach Junnar, you can see the mighty Shivneri Fort, Shivaji's birthplace, on left. From here we headed for Chavand village via Aptale. Boards are available; else one can enquire with the locals.

By the time we reached the base village, rain had started. And by the time we climbed half the fort, it was lashing like anything. And this situation remained the entire day. Our photography tour was converted into an adventure trekking.

Chavand is the base village of Prasannagad; also known as Chavand Fort. The fort looking from base looked as if some huge rock is placed over a hillock. It seemed impossible to climb for usual trekkers. It felt as though you'll need experts with mountaineering equipment.
Image from Google Maps - Showing climbing route from Chavand village
However, it is not so. Reaching the top is comparatively easy; Therefore, I have given a Google Maps imagery of the fort above. From the base village there are well laid steps till the half-way (work is going on).
Railings provided on rock-sides to facilitate climbing
At the half-way, a steep rock patch starts; However, very well laid & strong railings are made to facility this climb easily. Absence of the railing would have devoided common people from reaching this fort.
Last few steps - takes your breath away
Finally, after the rock patch again there are steps that take you to the Main Door. These are huge & steep. Lashing rains & powerful winds was making this climb gruely tiresome.
Chavandwadi Village from top
Rain Rain All The Way
Actually, there was one mistake I did. I didn't study the fort well before going for this trip. I didn't knew what are the places to see on top.
To add up, the climate was against us. It was raining heavily. Actually, whatever photos I took they were with extreme risk of getting my camera damaged. Secondly, due to monsoons, the whole land was covered in high grass.
Pushkarani
After the steps & passing through the Mahadarwaja (Main Gate), the plain area is seen with further more small hillock a little ahead. We were exploring the area when we found small water tank with a broken temple (seems to be of Lord Shiva) at the end. One side of the tank had 8-10 small compartments with Idols carved / kept inside.



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Seems to be a Shiv-Linga


From here we started our descent. There were few more places to see which I came to know later.

Once at the base, we got back to our buses to go to the Nane Ghat. It used to be a trade route from Western Maharashtra to the Konkan. It has a beautiful Kokan-kada. There is one large cistern carved out of stone. Traders used to drop money in that as a part of Tax (Toll system of that era), while they used this Nane Ghat to travel.

Rain was extremely heavy & there was no visibility. Hence we dropped the idea to spend some time at Nane Ghat & decided to turn back.

On the way back home, as the rains gave some break, we stopped over an extremely beautiful  ancient temple - Kukadeshwar. This is the place where Kukadi River originates – the river which near Nighoj forms the famous natural Pot-holes.
Kukadeshwar Temple
The temple is in ruined state. The villagers are organizing its reconstruction. The work is under progress.


"Alien-like' Sculpture which seems to be
of a frail, old Lady

Kukadi River

Route from Pune:


Zoomed map of the Region:


Tuesday, 5 February 2013

A witness of Valor: Sangramdurga, Chakan - February 5, 2013

Till last Diwali (2012), I was not knowing there is a fort just 30 kms from my house which was witness to the immense bravery and valor. It was one of those battles where the losers are honored still today.

The place is Chakan (चाकण) on Pune-Nashik Highway (NH-50) and the fort is Sangram-durga, a Bhui-kot or Sthala-durga (भुइकोट or स्थल-दुर्ग), the fort built on a flat land.

Last Diwali, I saw a miniature model of this fort created by one organisation. They explained the detail history of this fort using sound-&-light technique. Impressed by this piece if history, still unknown to me, I decided to visit this place.

I started off from my office at Pimpri at 5 pm with another colleague. We took the Pune-Nashik Highway (NH-50). Chakan is on the highway about 10 kms after the Toll. You need to shelve off Rs. 38 for a return toll (Rs. 25 for one way). At Chakan, there is a main cross-road - Left goes to Talegaon (Pune-Mumbai Road), Right goes to Shikrapur (Pune-Nagar Road). Take Right towards Shikrapur. Immediately take 1st Left. At about 200 mtrs, you can see an arch on the Right mentioning Chakreshwar Mahadeo Temple (चक्रेश्‍वर महादेव मंदिर). This road goes right inside Sangram-durga.
Remains of Fort walls & Bastions
Shivaji Maharaj (शिवाजी महाराज) was trapped on Panhalgad (पन्हाळगड) under the seige from Siddis (सिद्दी). During the same time Aurangzeb (औरंगझेब) decided to attack Maratha Empire and sent Shahistekhan (Shastakhan) for the job. Shastakhan (शास्ताखान) reached Pune with his army of over 1.25 Lakh (77,000 Cavalry & 30,000 Infantry along with Elephants & Canons). He was to get supplies (food & ammunition) from other Mughal areas of Nashik (Gulshanabad) & Aurangabad. However, one base in between Pune & these cities was still under Maratha control, Chakan. If Marathas attacked these supplies, the 1 Lakh Army would die without food & ammunition.

Shastakhan therefore decided to attack & take Chakan under Mughal control. Mughal Army of 20,000 along with Shastakhan himself marched towards Chakan to conquer it.

Chakan fort, named Chakrapuri during that time, was a small ground fort about 3-4 acres in area, made of earthen construction. It had walls about 40 feet high with 9 bastions surrounded from all sides by a Moat filled with water. It had two Main Gates which can be identified even today.

When Mughals reached the fort, it had about 400 Marathas only and their brave Garrison Commander Firangoji Narsala (किल्लेदार फिरंगोजी नरसाळा). The date was June 21, 1607.


Looking at the small fort, Shastakhan had thought that he would capture in no time. So he ordered a quick attack. However, the fort was ready. Marathas showered them with ammunition in their canons & guns and made severe casualties for Mughals. Marathas were difficult to spot as they were secured behind the walls & bastions.

Shastakhan then decided to siege the fort. He planted his troops all around the fort at a safe distance from the range of Maratha Canons.

The siege continued for more than a month. There was no signs of withdrawal from Marathas. In fact, Marathas were using Guerilla Tactics against Mughals. They used to remain silent during the day; and during night, a group of 20-25 Marathas used to get out in the dark, and they used to launch a surprise attack on any one Mughal Group, do the damage intended and get back inside the fort walls.

Shastakhan started getting desperate. He was not able to conquer a small fort held by handful of Marathas for a month now. He made a plan. Mughals constructed an underground tunnel till the foundation of the wall. They dumped ammunition there and made a blast. That part of fortification collapsed and Mughals entered inside.

Marathas fought valiantly. But they were only 400, Mughals were 20,000. Tired Mughal soldiers were getting replaced by new one's. Same luxury was not there for Marathas. Firangoji Narasala was also fighting his heart out to save the fort.

Finally Firangoji was captured alive and Marathas lost the battle. The date was August 16, 1607.

400 Marathas held the fort against 20,000 Mughals for 56 days.

Firangoji was brought in front of Shastakhan. Shastakhan was extremely impressed by the bravery of Marathas. He offered Firangoji to join Mughals and promised to give him riches against that. Firangoji promptly refused to make this compromise & was willing to die instead of becoming a traitor. Shastakhan was impressed again by this. He set Firangoji free.

Firangoji went back to Shivaji, depressed. He was extremely dejected and felt sorry for the defeat. He couldn't face Shivaji and stood before him, head down. Shivaji instead, was extremely impressed and happy. He said if Shastakhan took 60 days to capture a small earthen ground fort, imagine how long will Mughals take to capture entire Swarajya with its more than 250 forts, some embracing the clouds. He rewarded Firangoji by giving him Commandership of Bhupalgad (भुपाळगड).

At present the fort lies in an extremely sorry state. The wall fortification has collapsed and damaged at many places. The Main Gates are in ruins. Many residential buildings have come-up around the fort. A tar road runs through the fort. Children were playing cricket on the plain ground.

Fort ruins:
Damaged Gate


Collapsed Fortifications
Moat is seen at some places


One of the 9 Bastions remained so far to tell the tale
There is a temple of Lord Vishnu (Damodar Avatar), as told by one of the locals there. Some group of people consider it to be Lord Munjaba (Shiva Avatar).

Some renovations are going on. He told us that there used to be a very small temple which was reconstructed into a larger one. The old idol (which might be of Munjaba or Vishnu) is replaced with a new one of Lord Vishnu in a Damodar Avatar. The locals are in with talks with some builder to reconstruct the wall fortification. Hope that Sangram-durga returns back to its old glory that it deserves.
Lord Munjaba / Vishnu Temple
Place where old temple existed
Just next to the temple is Mosque which is said to be there from the Shivaji era.

Temple & Mosque side-by-side
The road that goes through the fort reaches to the Chakreshwar Mahadeo Temple (Lord Shiva Temple). It is a peaceful site, a temple by the side of a constructed water pond. There is a rare sculpture of Lord Vishnu in a Varah (Pig) Avatar [however, I read about it after our trip; hence we didn't see this]. There is a Samadhi of Shandilya Rishi.

By 6.30 pm we returned back watching the Sun set behind the fort.


Map:

Coordinates:   18° 45' 25.152" N   73° 51' 48.348" E