National Defense Academy – Cradle of Indian Military Leadership

NDA as it is generally referred as, National Defense Academy is the World’s first Tri-Services Academy; combined academy for Army, Navy and Air Force. It was established immediately after India’s Independence; plans of which, however, were conceptualized some time during the 2^nd World War in British India. A Joint Services Wing (JSW) was established in 1949 at Dehradun which was later shifted to Khadakwasla near Pune in 1954, which we now know as the NDA.

Motto: सेवा परमो धर्मः
(Service Before Self)

Students, referred as Cadets, are selected after their 12^th standard through an examination conducted through UPSC. There are some entries through NCC also. There are feeder academies like RIMC (Rashtriya Indian Military College) and Sainik Schools (e.g. Bhosala Military School, Satara) where the students are prepared for their entry into the NDA.

Cadets come from all walks of life, irrespective of their caste, religion, financial situation and societal status. Selection happens only on based on merit of the individual; no recommendations work here. Student displaying high amount of OLQs (Officer Like Qualities) have a potential to become an Officer. About 30,000 students participate for examinations every term (every 6 months), approx. 3000 get selected for SSB (Service Selection Board) stage. Only 300 among them are selected as NDA Cadets; about 40 among them for Air Force, while 20 to Navy.

At the end of their 3 years (6 terms) at NDA, Cadets go for further specialized training in their respective Academies – Army Cadets to Indian Military Academy (Dehradun), Air Force Cadets to Air Force Academy (Dundigal, near Hyderabad) and Naval Cadets to Indian Naval Academy (Kerala).

Cadets when come to NDA, are from multiple locations across India. They speak different languages. But after their 6 terms in NDA they walk out speaking the one language – Language of The Forces; with only one aim à to protect India from external as well as internal threats. Since Cadets from all three Forces from various parts of India train together, they make a bond for life. It serves as a significant prologue to continued tri-service camaraderie and esprit-de-corps. The Senior-Junior and Peer Relationships are sustained till eternity.  Ex-NDA remains an identity for these Officers when they are commissioned in their respective Units and even beyond after they retire. The Squadrons and Battalions assigned to them after their entry into NDA, remains with them for life.

There are 18 Squadrons (from A to R – Alpha, Bravo, …, Quebec, Romeo). These are further divided into 5 Battalions. Cadets stay in the buildings of their respective Squadrons. They come from different regions, speak different languages, and have varying abilities. But they bond in their Squadron where their camaraderie is forged. The Squadron spirit is inculcated and nurtured throughout their stay. They fight a healthy competition to keep the name of their Squadron flying high.

This bond and respect within each other make these Officers such that they are ready to even die for their Seniors’ Orders (Supreme Sacrifice). These Officers are made to toil hard during their tenure. They are made to do all kinds jobs and activities which may be required during hostile situations in war. An Officer would never order a task to his Jawans which he himself cannot do. They are taught to lead by example. That is the reason Indian Army is one of those dignified Armies in the World that has high number of injuries and casualties of Officers during an Operation or War. They lead from the front.

Cadets receive a basic degree of B.Sc. They are taught Science, Maths and multi linguistic (foreign languages) subjects. They are taught about Table Manners and Etiquettes as well. Then there is a hard-core training of the Forces and then their specialization (Army, Navy or Air Force). Cadets are molded into Officers at the end of their 6^th term, ready to take on any challenge.

STD Booths for Cadets to speak with their families

Heritage India had arranged a visit to this iconic Academy. And to add up to the party, was presence of Major General Rasquinha as our guide. All the information which is mentioned in this blog is because of his immense knowledge and experience.

We started from Pune at 9 am and reached the Tri-Shakti Gate of NDA by around 10 am. Tri-Shakti Gate was constructed in 2006 to mark the Golden Jubilee celebration of NDA. This is symbolic for being a Tri-Services Academy.

After basic entry formalities and a photo-op, we entered inside. This was moment of pride for us. Most us were first one’s entering this iconic institute of National Importance.

Tri-Shakti Gate

We directly went for the Equitation Training Team – in simple terms Horse Riding. The basic idea of Horse Riding Training is that, if you can control an animal, you can very well handle tough situations and command men under you. There are various genres of Horse Riding - Lane Lumping, Dressage, Cross Country, Bare-back riding. There are about 175 horses. There is also an Indoor Riding Arena which is useful during rainy season.

Horse-Shoe shaped Entrance -
a befitting symbol for the Equitation Training Team

Memorial of the Horses

Inside a stable

This ETT is managed by 61^st Cavalry Regiment of Indian Army. This is World’s only operational Cavalry Unit. They form the President’s Body Guard, which we see every year during Republic Day Parade.

From here we went to Habibulla Hall. It is named after the first Commandant of NDA. It is an auditorium cum Stage of the NDA. Multiple functions happen here, apart from movie screenings. They showed us a film by Discovery about NDA and life of the Cadets. This film further imparted us with many insights. The same building also houses a Museum at the back which displays mementos and medals received from other Countries.

Inside Habibulla Hall

Friendly Countries whose Cadets are also trained here

Next to this Hall is the main building of NDA, the Sudan Block. It is the main administration building and houses the Office the NDA Commandant at the top floor. Sudanese Government had donated some amount to the British Indian Government as a token of gratitude in exchanged of the Army’s support in its Liberation. This money was utilized in building of the NDA. Hence the name Sudan Block.

Sudan Block

The Sudan Block is the iconic symbol of NDA. Colossal Dome at the top and lined-up arches below making a giant façade appears this building to be vastly spread out. Line of steps takes you to the main entrance at the centre of the arch-line. Above are Four Flags slanted up (Army, Navy, Air Force and of NDA). Massive insignia of the academy on both sides catch the eye.

View from the platform (after climbing the steps) down below is awesome. The straight road running down with trees on both sides and an Ashok Stambha at the cross-road in between reminds of the Raj Path running from Rashtrapati Bhavan in Delhi.

View from the platform -
Ashok Stambh, road running down straight
with Fort Sinhagad at the backdrop

Inside the building, below the Dome is the memorial of all those Officers (ex-NDA Cadets) who laid down their lives in service of the Nation. Also, there is the list of awardees who received Param Veer Chakra, Ashok Chakra, etc. Photography is not permitted here.

From here we went to see the Cadet’s Mess. This is another highlight of the Academy after Sudan Block. This is said to the Asia’s largest Mess wherein 2100 people can sit at a time. This is one of exclusive symbols of solidarity and brotherhood among Cadets; where they break the bread together. Veg and Non-Veg seating is identified. Made to order food is also served; and mind-you within the super strict time schedule. Table manners and eating etiquettes are taught to the Cadets here.

The interior, with RED as the highlight color, is mostly a wooden structure with a Peshwai Style of structural design. The Pillars are mounted with photos of the President of India, the NDA Commandant and the Three Chiefs of Armed Forces. Also decorated with flags of the friendly countries whose Cadets are also trained here. Aesthetically mounted are the weapons, Squadron Flags, Paintings and Banners.

Also lined-up are the frames of the Menu prepared during each of the guests who visited this Mess – like Heads of State of various Countries. During Passing-Out-Parade of the Cadets after their 6^th term, their parents get an honor to have food in this Mess with them.

At the entrance is an empty table with a chair leaned on it. On the table a dish is laid out and a rose and a candle is kept. This is in remembrance of those NDA Alumni who are listed as Missing In Action (MIA). The Academy still awaits their return to their motherland. This was unique and a gloomy moment.

Photography is not allowed inside the Mess as well.

This was the end of our half day NDA visit. Post lunch at the Cafeteria, we moved for our return journey by 2 pm.

Pune is renowned for many heritage sites and modern architecture. However, every Indian visiting Pune should pay a visit to this Heritage of National Importance which is truly the Cradle of Indian Military Leadership. Visitors can visit NDA on Sundays. Details are provided in their website here.

Jai Hind

Shaniwar-Wada - Identity of Pune

Shaniwar-wada has always been a true Identity of Pune. It is emblematic to the rich cultural heritage of the region.

Shaniwar-wada was the seat of Peshwas (Prime Minister) of Maratha Empire until 1818. Peshwas being de-facto leaders of Marathas this was the place which, in late 17th Century, virtually ruled entire India - well almost. Even Delhi was under the control of Marathas - दिल्लीचेही तख्त राखितो, महाराष्ट्र माझा (a Marathi song praising Maharashtra).

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Shaniwar-wada has always been a true Identity of Pune. It is emblematic to the rich cultural heritage of the region. It was the seat of Peshwas (Prime Minister) of Maratha Empire until 1818. Peshwas being de-facto leaders of Marathas this was the place which, in late 17th Century, virtually ruled entire India - well almost. #punediaries #identityofpune #peshwahistory #itsmytravelogue #instalogues #glimpsesofpune

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Shaniwar-wada witnessed the golden period of Maratha dynasty. From Cuttack (Orissa) till Attock (in present day Pakistan), from Northern banks of Sindhu (Indus River) to Southern banks of Cauvery, all was under Maratha control. This was time when Delhi (Red Fort), Burhanpur (Mughal Empire's gateway into Deccan), Golconda (Seat of the Nizams) and Aurangabad (Aurangazeb's base in Deccan), all had Saffron fluttering over them. Once a Power House of Maratha Empire, Shaniwar-wada also witnessed their fall - Peshwa Narayanrao was mercilessly killed in a conspiracy hatched by his uncle Raghunathrao; this happened within these walls, in 1818 Marathas lost the 3rd Anglo-Maratha War resulting into fall of Maratha Empire; Shaniwar-wada came under the control of British. Once a magnum-opus residence of its Prime Minister, was now converted to a Police Station and a Mental Hospital. In 1828, massive fire gutted down the entire structure. This inferno lasted for a week (Shaniwar-wada was burning for 7 days). It is believed that the fire started from a Kitchen of Mental Hospital. For next 100 years, the place remained in a dilapidated state. It was in 1921 when Prince of Wales was to visit India and in Pune, that the place was cleaned-up and remains of Mental Hospital were removed. I think we should thank the Prince for this, atleast today visitors won't see a Mental Hospital inside this heritage.

A dream of an official residence of the Peshwas was nurtured by Bajirao-I (Balaji Bajirao). His ambition was to take मराठी जरिपटका (the Saffron Flag) to rule entire India; and Red Fort (Delhi) ruled India during that time. This is the reason, Shaniwar-wada was built with its North facing Main Gate, called दिल्ली दरवाजा (Delhi Darwaza). It was very beautifully decorated / coloured. However, today slight impressions of these designs can seen, if observed carefully.

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Celebrate #PeshwaBajirao 's 320th birth anniversary today. This #Peshwa or the #PrimeMinister was instrumental in expanding #MarathaEmpire in India. Under #Peshwai , the Maratha Empire went ahead to rule Delhi in future. In his military career of 20 years, he never lost a single battle. #18Aug1700 #instalogues #itsmytravelogue #IncredibleIndia #PrideOfPune #GlimpsesOfPune #GoPro #MaharashtraDesha #MaharashtraUnlimited #GoProQuickStories @incredibleindia @mtdc_official @goproindia @gopro @desha.maharashtra

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The bhoomi-poojan (ceremonial foundation) was done on January 10, 1730. It was a Saturday - hence the name (Shaniwar - Saturday; Wada - residential complex). It was completed in 1732. Initially Peshwa Bajirao-I had built small residential structure. It didn't had any fortification which we see today. Actually, they say Chhatrapati Shahu instructed to build fortification of Chest (Valour) & not from Stones (कोट छातीचे नाही, तर मातीचे करा). Over the years Shaniwar-wada grew & developed to a strong bastion.

Peshwa Bajirao-I's son, Peshwa Nanasaheb, is the architect of Shaniwar-wada what we see today. This was the Golden Era of Marathas. He built the stone fortification around the Wada. There are 5 gates and 9 bastions in this fortification.

• To the North is Delhi Darwaja - this is the Main Entrance. It is guarded by two bastions on its sides. It is so large to allow elephants carrying Howdah / Ambari to enter inside. The Gates also have sharp spikes to avoid charging elephants in case of an attack. In case of a fall, if enemy barged inside, there was no straight entry. Behind the Gate is a strong wall. Enemy would have to take 'Z' turn, reducing its speed. Above this is false ceiling mechanism, supported by make-shift wooden columns. Ceiling is filled with mud, stones. The Maratha Defense just have to break these wooden columns, causing the ceiling to fall down on attacking enemy. They would get trapped inside the stones and mud and would also make difficult for other enemy attackers to come inside.
• There is another Gate facing North - towards North-East is the Mastani Darwaja (or Ali Bahadur Darwaza) - Peshwa Bajirao-I's 2nd wife, Mastani, used this Gate.
• Facing East is Khidki Darwaja.
• Facing East, towards South-East corner is Ganesh Darwaja - there used to be Ganesh Mahal in the vicinity; also it was used by people to visit the Kasaba Ganapti (which is Gram-Daivat of Pune). Just outside this Gate on outer side of fortification wall is a Ganesh Temple by the name Peshwe Ganpati.
• Facing South is Jambhul Darwaja (Narayan Darwaja) - This gate was used by concubines. The name got changed after Peshwa Narayanrao was murdered by attackers on orders from Raghunathrao. His body is said to have cut into pieces. Those pieces were filled in a sack & it was taken out from this Gate for cremation.
• There is no Gate facing West. During those days, there used to be a River called Amba. It is no longer present today, instead, Bajirao Road goes parallel to this wall. Ambil Odha (canal) which is still present in another part of city today, must have been a part of this Amba River. To avoid flood waters entering inside, no Gate was provided in this direction.

Above Main Gate is the Nagar-Khana. Teak Wooden frames & arches are still intact here. Equestrian Statue of Peshwa Bajirao-I facing towards Delhi looks very awesome from here. On the opposite side, is the view of inner Gardens. On both sides of Nagar-Khana, there is an exit over the fortification walls. One can walk around the Wada over it.

Once inside one can see only the remains of a magnificent building complex once stood here. Some of its structures were as high as 7 storeyed. It is said that at its peak, about 1000 people lived here. Signs are visible everywhere. The structure was mainly wooden; with use of Teak Wood, exquisite display of art was present in its arches and pillars. After its destruction during British attack and then the fire, the wooden structure was destroyed leaving behind its stone foundation. This foundation can be seen today.

There are well laid out boards explaining about name & importance of each place / buildings.

Buildings:

• Mastani Mahal: Immediately at left corner after entering inside the Main Gate was residence of Mastani (near Mastani Darwaja).
•  कचेरी चा खण / चौक (Office Area) - This was the area where Office Staff used to sit & work; locals used to visit these Clerks for their issues. This was located at central location - walking straight ahead from the Main Gate.
• चाफे खण - This place was behind the Office Area. Fadnavis or the Head Administrator used to sit here. Even Peshwa used to sit & meet people at a place nearby this.
• गौरी चा सोपा - Behind Chafe Khan, this was the place for Royal Ladies. Gauri-Ganpati festival used to be celebrated here. Ladies used to celebrate all their annual festivals, rituals and savor food here.
• राघोबा चा वाडा - To the right used to be residential place of Peshwa Raghunathrao
• गणेश महाल - Also known as Ganesh Rang Mahal, was one of the very colourful & extravagant structure of the Wada. It used to be the Diwan-Khana or the Main Darbar Hall. It was built by Peshwa Nanasaheb & the Peshwa Darbar used to gather here. Peshwa Sawai Madhavrao used to live above Ganesh Mahal. He died at a very young age by falling down from his window over a fountain below. The reason, however, is a mystery - whether it was a suicide or he lost his balance (as he was not well at that time).
• हजारी कारंजे - Wada had multiple fountains inside, prominent among them is the Hajari Karanje (Fountain with a Thousand jets). It was said to have constructed for pleasure of infant Peshwa Sawai Madhavrao. Constructed into Lotus shaped design, it had a complicated & intricate design resulting into about 1000 jets of water. Today, this as well as other fountains are revived using modern piping system. These are ON during a Sound, Light & Laser Show every evening after 7.15 pm.

Apart from these, there are places like संध्येचा चौक (place to carry out a brahmin ritual), रहाटाचा बंगला (a Well  to take out water in nearby), गोदुबाई चा निवास (separate residence for Peshwa Nanasaheb's brother's widow). There used to be a fountain below Ganesh Mahal and also a Water Tank (हौद) nearby which had a provision of making colorful lighting using colored glasses and water stream fell over them.

Apart from Ganesh Mahal, there were few more - थोरल्या रायांचा दिवाणखाना (Darbar Hall of Peshwa Bajirao), Dance Hall, आरसे महाल (Mirror Hall).

A Bastion at the South-East corner near Ganesh Darwaza, was called as खजिन्याचा बुरूज. The name because, below the bastion used to be water storage for usage inside Shaniwar Wada.

They say the place is haunted. Peshwa Narayanrao's assassination is a heart-wrenching narrative of greed & betrayal; and some people have weaved a ghost-story, a rumour around this Place. On a Full Moon Night, noises are heard inside the Wada, the last words of Narayanrao - काका मला वाचवा !!! (Uncle, save me !!!).

This is a sad state of affairs that the place which once ruled entire India, today lies in a dilapidated state. However, conditions are improving. Many people are visiting nowadays. A Sound, Light & Laser Show is also started. Heritage Walks do happen. The site is already in the itinerary of Pune Darshan bus service.

Bhushi Dam, The Busiest Place Near Pune - July 24, 2016

Bhushi Dam has become the busiest place near Pune during monsoons. And this is only from recent decade or so. The place is always in discussion for all the wrong reasons every year when monsoon visit this part of India - heavy rush, traffic jams, drunk public, accidents. It feels as if whole of Pune & Mumbai visit here as soon as it starts raining.

Earlier it was not so. I remember having gone here without any rush about 15-20 years ago. After that I was always terrified of visiting here in fear of getting stuck in traffic.

This year I thought of doing it in a unique way. We decided to leave early & return back before rush starts.

Bhushi Dam actually is one of the oldest dams of the region. It was built on Indrayani river during 1860 for Railways. It was used as a water source for Steam Engines. Even today it is owned by Indian Railways.

As the water level rise, there is a under-cut in the dam-wall. Water starts overflowing & falls over 15-20 steps constructed on other side of the wall. The view is awesome & all these people mentioned above die-hard to get drenched here & enjoy.

We started at 6.30 in the morning from Pune. We took the old Pune-Mumbai Highway. We directly headed towards our destination as we didn't want to lose the congestion free time. With heavy heart with DID NOT STOP at Hotel Ramakrishna. Ahead of Ramkrishna, there is a left turn which goes over the Railway Flyover into Lonavala town. From here Bhushi Dam is about 5 kms. We reached the parking at 8 am.



There is heavy loot by the locals here. Car parking is charged Rs. 100. Toilet & Changing Rooms are charged for Rs. 10. Onion Pakodas were for Rs. 50. And you don't have any option. However, one thing was noteworthy - toilets were really clean & were worth 10 Rs.

There is a brief walk of about 300 meters till the Dam Wall. Once at the steps, the enjoyment is extraordinary.

When we reached, already 150-200 people were playing on the steps. It means so many of them had planned like we did & reached here early. They were just getting drenched in the white, gushing water and taking selfies. The locals were selling Vada-Pavs & Corn over the steps. Over-all the environment was jolly & picnic-mood.

The water was crystal clear. We were able to see the bottom. Cleanilness around was so-so types. Mostly the tourists need to be blamed here.

We returned back by 9.15 am. By this time rush started to rise and we started our return journey. Now we could feel the traffic on opposite direction. Traffic Police were on job & they had started to regulate the traffic. At one point there were vehicle queued upto 500 meters. But this was for the on-coming lane. We were completely free.

We had a breakfast at Lonavala & reached back home by 12 noon. So, our plan was successfull. We didn't stuck into traffic anywhere; we got good car parking location; no hurdles in taking out the car; there was no mad rush anywhere; and more importantly, there were no drunkards; there were only family groups.

Museum Of Miniature Railways - May 20, 2013

Its been since 1998 that a Joshi's Museum Of Miniature Railways is functioning in one of the Pune suburbs at Kothrud. And it is not just any museum; it is in fact the work of detailing done by Bhau Joshi (as he is affectionately called).

The railway models range from now well-known Electric Locomotives to the age-old Steam Locomotives. There are well-known models of the Railways from various countries - Japan to Germany. There are also various types of Railway Transport Modes - Railways, Trams, Mono-rails, Rope-ways, etc. All these are Scale Models with the reduction ratio of 1:87 (i.e. these are manufactured with 87 times reduced dimensions of the actual).

And it is not just about the Railways. Entire imaginary city is built here. The city has a large highway with cars running over it. There are Platforms, Fly-overs, Ghat-sections, Tunnels. Also part of this city is a Circus and a Fun-fair with Giant Wheel, Merry-go-round, Roller-coaster Ride, etc. Lighting is so done that the city looks beautiful in the night.

The show is of about less than 1/2 an hour. It can become an ideal place to spend a short evening time. Guests visiting Pune can be taken to show this place. It would be a different experience than routine Parks and Temples. It is a very simple, no-frills, place. Don't expect any air-conditioned hall with recliner cushioned seats here   ;-)

Information is explained in a simple Marathi language so that children can easily understand. I don't think a show in Hindi and/or English is available (need to enquire). However, still the show is worth a visit even for those who don't understand Marathi.

Miniature City, with the control unit at the back

Patrons, mostly children, watching the show

A small video clip of part of the show is below, just to provide an idea.

Contact details

King of Forts, Rajgad - September 16, 2012

One of our senior employee and expert in photography from my Company was planning to visit Rajgad last Sunday (September 16, 2012). He asked one of our fellow Photography Club members and so the link was created and we 7 of us accompanied Mr. Vivek Kale for the Rajgad expedition - my first.

I reached Alka Talkies Chowk at 5.00 am. I was picked by a Santro by 5.30 am. The other Car (Vista) was coming from the Bangalore Bypass. We took the Sinhagad Road and met our other car - Vista - at Khadakwasla Dam. From here we moved together. Ahead of Khadakwasla Dam (prior to Sinhagad fort) is a crossroad called Donje Phata (डोणजे फाटा). Left goes to Donje village, straight to Sinhagad and right to Panshet Dam. We took Right.

A little ahead of Khanapur (खानापुर), there is a road ascending upwards on Left. Sign-board for Velhe, Torna (वेल्हे, तोरणा) is available. We took that road. This is a very small road that goes turning through dense cover of trees. We were just a bit ahead when a sudden lightening struck on us. We came to know that we had forgotten to fill petrol. The needle had already crossed below "Empty". There was no way we could reach a petrol pump ahead. It was 6 am in the morning. We decided to turn back. We came all the way till Donje Phata. Came across 2 pumps - HP and Essar - both closed. We woke up the person at Essar, requested him to help us out. After 10 minutes we were back on our track.

We were cruising through the small road with doing our bit of bird watching - we came across various species like Yellow Wagtail, Moor-hen, a type of a Dove. After a small "very bad" patch of mud, we started to ascend the Pabe Ghat (पाबे घाट). And another lightening struck us. We had a puncture. And the worst of it --> our spare tyre had less air pressure. It was 7.45 am.

Our another vehicle had gone ahead of us. We called them back. They took both of our tyres to a town ahead - Velhe. They came back after about one and half hours.

Once ready, we started off again at 9.30 am; hoping this time that nothing unworthy happens now which would lose more time for us.

After Paabe Ghat, comes a "T" joint to a main road. Right goes to Velhe while left to Nasarapur (नसरापुर). We took left. There is an Emu Farm on your left. You can see Emus wandering behind the fence. After 2-3 kms, there comes one road on the right. Better to inquire with the locals about the road to Rajgad via Vazeghar (वाझेघर) village towards Pali Darwaza atop.

Please note that there is one more route from Gunjawani (गुंजवणी) village. However, this trek is slightly difficult with one small rock-patch in between; railings are available though.

Nearby Vajeghar, we saw a spot filled with bright yellow flowers - Smithia Hirsuta. Seemed as if, Kaas that eloped us during our last month's visit there, had appeared here to compensate. The whole area was filled with tiny yellow flowers with a dot of red at the centre. The characteristic of Smithias is that these flowers blossom daily in the morning while close by 11.00-12.00 noon.

Smithia Hirsuta

By 10.30 am we reached base of the fort, a village by the name Pali. After full snacks of Kanda-pohe and Chaha (tea in Marathi) - which was most required because we all were feeling extremely hungry by then - we started our trek at 11.00 am. Initially it is midly steep walk-way, about 7-8 feet wide, pretty plain. There was waterfall in between, view of which refreshed our mind.

taken at 7 pm while returning - long exposure shot (10 secs)

Then comes a small flat land. There is an information board mentioning a brief history and the map of the fort.

From here the actual trek and so the slightly tough part starts. There are some slippery patches in between, might have been formed due to rains. There was a stream of water coming down nearby, which must be getting into those waterfalls we saw at the base.

Trekking up this fort looking at the mighty bastions and walls at the top, with the rhythmic sound of water falls, green cover of trees around, red soil below and the grand Torna (तोरणा) Fort to guard your back - experience is priceless. On your left you can see the Suvela Maachi (सुवेळा माची) spreading ahead with its typical Nedhe (नेढे - Marathi word for a large hole formed within the rocks due to strong and cutting winds). On the right is the mighty Sanjeevani (संजीवनी) Maachi

Suvela Maachi (seen from halfway) - Nedhe is also visible

Maachi actually is small and narrow plateau which runs from the main fort towards its sides. It was used in those days to keep a vigil around the area and track movements, if any, below. A Maachi normally is strengthened with stone walls and bastions and loaded with cannons at strategic locations. Sometimes there is a Gate (Darwaza) also.

Rajgad has 3 such Maachis - Suvela, Padmavati and Sanjeevani, making this a very wide spread fort. The perimeter at the base is a whopping 40 kms, while that at its fortified walls is 22 kms. This made impossible for the enemy to put a siege, which was one of the widely used tactics in those days to conquer a fort. A siege would result in blocking the food, ammunition and support from outside to the fort and the Killedar had to either surrender (and hand-over the fort) or do a suicide attack (and die).

The architecture of the fort is in two parts - there is a base fort and above that is the Citadel (Bale-killa - बालेकिल्ला - in Marathi). So in a way, Rajgad actually is 2 forts coupled into one. Both are properly fortified. Even though the base fort fell into enemy hands, it was possible to hold back, fight and win back from the Citadel. Climbing the Citadel is one of the tough parts of Rajgad.

Basically it was earlier called as "Murumb Devaacha Dongar" (मुरुंब देवाचा डोंगर). There is a temple of Murumb Dev on the Citadel. When Shivaji Maharaj got the hidden treasure while constructing Torana Fort, he used that money for fortification of this hill and named it "RAJGAD".

The vast area, 3 wide-spread Maachis and a strong Citadel made Rajgad one of the mighty forts of Maharashtra. Shivaji Maharaj acknowledged this strength by making this fort the first Capital of Swarajya. He spent maximum time (24 years) here, governing his kingdom. Hence there is a saying in Marathi - गडांचा राजा आणि राजांचा गड़ (means, King of Forts, and Fort of the King).

It was due to some strategic and bureaucratic reasons, that he had to shift this Capital to another fort, Raigad.

By 12.30 pm, we reached the point from where the stone steps are laid till the top - they call it as Rajgad Rajmarg. Few of us reached here much early, however others took much time - partly they were not aware "what Rajgad is" and partly they were more busy in taking photographs (obvioulsy being a photography excursion).

On our way we could find out many wild flowers of Sahyadris.

Gulaab Daani - has excellent fragrance

Habenaria rariflora

Ceropegia Sahyadrica - it attracts & traps small insects inside
and as they struggle, pollen grains stuck it their body; then
the flower release them for further pollination process

We were at the Pali Darwaza (पाली दरवाजा) by 1.00 pm. We were much delayed on account of the fuel and puncture incidents in the morning. We had planned that we would start climbing at 8.30 am. Hence, we decided to skip Suvela Machi and the Citadel. Instead we marched towards Sanjeevani Machi, the most beautiful and a photogenic place.

Pali Darwaza

After you enter inside Pali Darwaza, there is an inscription (शीलालेख) in Modi script on the right wall. I tried to get the meaning from internet. Not yet succeeded. Once after Pali Darwaza, one lands on the Padmavati (पद्मावती) Maachi. There is a small direction map showing the way. On left is Goddess Padmavati Temple. Towards right are the Citadel and other two Maachis. For Sanjeevani Maachi, you need to go to right around the Citadel. The path is extremely narrow; hardly one person can walk, with steep and rocky walls of the Citadel on left and a deadly valley on right. Stone steps curving through the greens is seen below. About half a km later, one reaches the half-way to the Maachi. The view is awesome. It just eats away the fatigue and tiredness that you may be feeling. It lives upto its name - provides you Sanjeevani from fatigue.

Sanjeevani Maachi

We had our own refueling with the food that we had brought with us here. After about an hour spending here capturing the splendid view here and trying to capture as much as possible in our eyes we turned back.

We had a brief photography concepts discussion on the way and by 4.30 pm we were back near Pali Darwaza. We went straight towards Padmavati Goddess Temple. It is a small temple which one might confuse to be a small house. Inside is the idol of Goddess Padmavati, by whose name the Maachi is also known. Insides of the temple is extremely dark. People who do the overnight Rajgad trek, normally stay in this temple for the night.

After a brief stop here and some time spent for a group photo, we started to ascend at 5.30 pm. Should thank Mr. Vivek Kale for this awesome Group Snap at the Pali Darwaza.

It took us about an hour to reach the waterfalls below. After a final photography stop again and a cup of tea at the village, we proceeded for our return journey at 7.30 pm. I reached my home by 9.00 pm.

The place is about 70 kms from Pune.

Route Map: