Bhuleshwar: A Broken Beauty_March 16, 2014

It is hard to believe that a treasure of beautiful sculptures can be found at a distance of just about 50 kms from Pune. We decided to explore this place – for me, once again.

We started from Pune at about 8 am. We took the Pune-Solapur Highway (NH-9) via Swargate. After an awesome breakfast of Misal-Paav at Kaanchan (a Hotel just before the Bhuleshwar exit), we reached the temple. The temple is located about 10 kms off the Highway on a small hillock. This hillock is actually the Fort by the name Daulatmangal (formerly known as Mangalgad). Remnants of fort walls & bastions can be seen. The road up the fort is beautiful with excellent twists & turns. We went in hot summers; however, driving here in rains would be an experience to cherish.

The temple can be easily seen from a distance, with a telecommunication tower just behind it destroying the beauty of the place.

Reaching near the temple, a striking difference is seen as compared to other temples. Half the structure is made from Black Stone in a distinct Hemadpanthi Style while top portion, Shikhara, is of yellowish white coloured stone (seemed to be Standstone). More noticing is that the Shikhara is dome-shaped constructed in Islamic Style.

It is said that the temple was attacked by the then Mughal Rulers & destroyed. The Shikhara was completely destroyed. This was later reconstructed by the then Maratha Rulers. The extent of this destruction can be felt once you are inside. The entrance is hidden. It has steps on both sides to reach the top; the passage is narrow & dark. It is said to be constructed after the invasion to prevent any more.

A large Nandi meets your eye as you climb these steps. Sanctum Sanctorum with Shiva Linga inside is seen ahead of the Nandi. The Sanctorum is at the centre surrounded by the open-to-sky pathway around 3 sides; further surrounded by the pillared corridor. The entire area of the temple is a treat to watch. Intricately carved sculptures of Gods, Goddesses, Apsaras, Yakshas, Nymphs & Celestial Beings are present. These are carved around the Sactorum outer walls from bottom to top. The “differently colored & styled” Shikhara can be seen from here. There are sculptures over the top side of the corridor as well as on pillars.

Sandstone construction over Black Stone

Pillared Corridor surrounding the Sanctum Sanctorum

This Beauty is posing here since eternity

But the sad part is each statue bears the mark of hammers of its invaders; each sculpture is destroyed. The sculptures even in their destroyed form look beautiful. So one can imagine how it would have been looking centuries ago.

Sculptures adoring the walls of Sanctum Sanctorum

There are murals depicting stories from our epics like Ramayana & Mahabharata. I could identify the scene of Bharat-Bhet from Ramayana. One area on the top displays Lord Ganesh in Feminine form (Vinayaki Pratima). It can be easily identified because of its Trunk & a Mouse as carrier.

Mural depicting Bharat-Bhet from Ramayana

Vinayaki - Ganesha in Feminine form

I saw one dark room at the side. Actually nothing was visible inside. I just clicked a photo using a flash and this is what I could see. The sculpture has striking resemblance to Lord Vishnu resting on a Shesh-Naaga. Lord Vishnu’s form is not clear though.

While returning we decided to visit Theur. More info about this Ashtavinaya can be sought here, our previous trip.

Siddhivinayak of Siddhatek - July 21, 2013

It was the only Ashtavinayakas I haven't visited as yet; and hence was a long pending trip.

Ganesh idol of Siddhtek is the only one among other Ashtavinayakas with its trunk turned towards Right. Normally such Ganesh is called as Siddhivinayak - the giver of accomplishments - a powerful Lord but difficult to please.

Temple is located on a hillock along the banks of river Bhima. The devotees often perform the Prada-kshina (Circumambulation) around this hillock - similar to the one at Ganpati-pule. A well laid down path is constructed.

Legend says that while Lord Vishnu was battling two demons - Madhu & Kaitabh. However, he was not able to succeed. Later he invoked Lord Ganesha (the deity of beginning & obstacle removal) by performing penance at Siddhatek. After Ganesha bestowed his blessings, Lord Vishnu was able to kill those demons. The original temple is believed to have constructed by Lord Vishnu; however the current structure what we see is built by Ahilyadevi Holkar.

We started off at 7 am on this Sunday. We took the Pune-Solapur Highway (NH-9). Take an exit at Kurkumbh towards Daund. A flyover construction was going on. Hence this exit becomes slightly tricky. However, we seeked guidance of some locals and were rightly on track. Just prior to Daund, a road goes towards Right for Siddhatek.

We need to cross the river Bhima. Earlier there was no other option but a boat ride. But, now a bridge is constructed.

After crossing bridge, a hillock that we see in the front is the temple complex. You need to take a left and encircle the hillock on the other side, which is the entry. A large Nagaar-khana can be prominently seen.

A large banyan tree is seen at this entry. It's girth huge. It might have been standing here for years together.

The temple is North facing. A well paved road is seen from the Nagaar-khana to the Sabha-mandap with shops lined-up on both sides. Temple is made of black stone.

We found a very unique temple here. Exactly in front of the road coming from the bridge (i.e. the back-side of main temple). This Lord Vishnu temple is constructed at a platform about 10 feet in height. However, the funny part is that there are no steps to reach. Some stones are just kept over each other which you have to literally trek up the platform. We asked a local who told that the steps whenever constructed won't last at all. They get destroyed due to some reason or the other. Hence onwards, anyone who has reach the temple, they have to trek their way up. Secondly, the main entry door for the Sanctorum is very small. You need to squeeze yourself inside as seen in the photo below.

Main Temple seen from the high platform of Vishnu Temple

River Bhima seen from the high platform of Vishnu Temple

After a peaceful darshan, we decided to return. Since we had some time in hand before we reach Pune, we planned to visit another of the Ashtavinayaks - Theur.

On the way we had a lunch at one very interesting restaurant on the Kurkumbh-Daund Road.

We took same road back. Just after Uruli-Kanchan there is a road towards Right (towards Left while coming from Pune). This goes towards Theur.

This is the place that holds the memories of Madhavrao Peshwa and his wife Ramabai.

Theur is well-known to be the spiritual place for the Peshwas, especially Madhavrao Peshwa. He used to visit this Lord before & after his battle expeditions. He renovated the temple complex & made additions to the structure. He constructed wooden hall, garden & a fountain outside the temple. Behind the temple is the Peshwe-wada where Madhavrao used to stay.

He even chose to breathe his last here. When his health weakened due to tuberculosis, he decided to spend his last days near his favorite Ganesha temple. After his death, his wife Ramabai performed Sati during his cremation on the banks of River Bhima, not far from here.

Place where Ramabai performed Sati during cremation of Madhavrao Peshwa

The condition of this place is very depressing. However, some work seems to be going on here. Hopefully, whenever I visit next time, the place shall stand in the honor it deserves.
(16-Nov-13: Just today's newspaper has as article on this, the place has been restored & aptly renovated)

The temple has a wooden Sabha-mandap, I think the only one among Ashtavinayakas. The Ganesh idol is East facing, while the entry to the temple complex is North facing.

As per Puranas, there was this greedy King Gunasur who stole a wish-granding jewel (Chintamani) from a Sage Kapila. Kapila worships Lord Ganesha, who beheads Gunasur and gives Chintamani back to Kapila. However, the sage chooses to have Ganesha to keep the jewel. So Ganeshs stays at Theur with the name Chintamani.
Another story says that Lord Brahma meditated here. Lord Ganesha got rid of his worries (chintas) to help him meditate better. Hence the name Chintamani.

Both these temples are managed by the Chinchwad Devasthan Trust which governs the Moraya Gosawi Temple of Chinchwad.

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