Cinematographic Wai - Menavali_November 6, 2013

We had a "real" long Diwali Holidays to our Company - 9 days - long enough to make all others, JEALOUS  ;-)

We colleagues decided to plan a one day trip after Diwali. Wai-Menavali-Dhom Dam was decided immediately.

We started off from Padmavati in Pune in a Santro at 6.30 am. We took the NH-4 (Pune-Bangalore Highway) - the new road bypassing Katraj Ghat.

By 8.30 am we were having breakfast at the Wai exit on NH-4. Wai from here is about 13 kms. Road is single lane, graced by large banyan trees on both sides. However, traffic is seen for obvious reasons - Mahabaleshwar & Panchgani, the most sought after Hill Stations for people Maharashtrians & Gujaratis of this side. Just before, there is a diversion towards Right for Wai Town from the main Mahabaleshwar Road.

Wai (वाई) is famous for its Maha-Ganapati Temple on the banks of River Krishna (कृष्णा नदी). Also called as Dholya Ganapati (ढोल्या गणपती) considering the size of the idol. It is HUGE. Carved out of single black stone along with a large back rest. It is beautifully painted. Photography inside is not allowed.
The temple was built in the year 1762.

Maha-Ganapati Temple of Wai - Dholya Ganapati

Next to the Ganesh Temple is the Shiva Temple - Kashi-Vishweshwar. It is said that the Nandi here is made out of same stone from which Shiv-Linga is made.
By the side, some idols & a Shiv-Linga is kept in a make-shift area. These idols are actually from Ganakeshwar Temple, which got submerged below Dhom Dam (ढोम धरण) backwaters when the Dam was made operational.

Kashi-Vishweshwar Temple - Wai

But the beauty of this place lies 3 kms ahead. There is this place called Menavali (मेणवली) ahead on the same road from Wai. This is the place where Nana Phadnavis (नाना फडणवीस), one of the influential statesman of Peshwas (पेशवे), built a Wada (वाडा) on the banks of River Krishna. It's been 230 years since, that this place is still present to tell us the History. It must have been witness to many diplomatic discussion that Nana had while directing the affairs of Maratha Empire in the midst of internal disputes.

Next to this Wada, is a tree with a massive trunk. Just see the photo, how tiny a human looks in front of it. A platform is constructed around it.
This tree & the parts of Wada were seen in the Hindi movie Swades - The Panchayat Scene.

Menavali - Nana Phadnavis Wada - Outsides

The Wada by itself is in a fairly good condition. Some areas are delapidated though. Descendants of Nana Phadnavis own this property, its items & the Ghat behind. There was family staying by the side; they might be the family of the watchman there.

We could go inside its compound. On the left we could see a large open square. Two storeyed structure is seen. On the right however, condition is not good.
We could not enter the rooms. They open at 11.00 am. There are some old documents, antique items like wooden bed inside. The interiors of this Wada can be seen in the Hindi Movie Mrityudand.
We had reached here at 9.45 am. Hence we decided to skip interiors this time. I would visit sometime later again.

Menavali - Nana Phadnavis Wada - Insides

Information Board - Nana Phadnavis Wada

Just behind the Wada is the most picturesque location of this entire trip. Menavali Ghat (घाट) on the banks of River Krishna. Stepping here, a film buff would start recollecting scenes from Hindi movies like - Entry Scene of Singham, Climax of Gangaajal, Bol Bachchan, etc.

Menavali Ghat (Krishna River)

There are two temples - one of Lord Vishnu & other of Meneshwar (Lord Shiva). There is a bell house in front of Meneshwar which has a large bell with carving of Mary holding baby Jesus in her arms. It is made of five-alloys & said to be of 650 kgs. It was captured by Chimaji Appa (brother of Bajirao Peshwe - I) from Portuguese in Vasai.

Ghanta-ghar

Meneshwar Mahadev Temple
(with Ghanta-ghar - Bell House in front)

Meneshwar Mahadev - Shiv Linga

The Shiv-Linga is located about 5-6 steps below. There is complete dark out there. I was not able to see anything at all. Somewhere in mind was a fear; don't know what is there inside. It was that dark. Carrying a torch inside is requested.
The photo above is taken blindly with just a camera flash. I tried 3 photos to get it right at the centre.

Climax of movie Gangaajal shot here

Village kids posing near two Nandis left
there out of some film shooting

It was about 10.45 am when we left for Dhom Dam. Another 6-7 kms from Menavali starts the Dhom Dam wall. Need to pass ahead of Dhom village. But before the dam, there is another piece of our glorious history. Dhomeshwar Mahadev & Laxmi-Narasimha Temple.

Dhomeshwar Mahadev & Laxmi-Narasimha Temple - Entrance

Once reaching the road at the base of earthen dam wall, take a left and again a left to road that descends down within the trees. Signboards for Laxmi-Narasimha are available from Dhom village.

It is a complex that houses two temples - Dhomeshwar Temple said to be from the times of Paandavas AND Laxmi-Narasimha Temple built by the Peshwas.

Master Sculpture @ Dhomeshwar Mahadev Temple
(Nandi on Tortoise back in a Lotus Pond)

There is one very different sculpture. Nandi in front of Shiva Temple is mounted on a Tortoise back. It's a huge tortoise over Lotus shaped pond. All this made out of black stone.

During one day in a year, the day Lord Narasimha appeared as per Shaastras, the pond is filled-up with water. At that time, it might appear as if the tortoise is swimming on water surface.

Dhomeshwar Mahadev

The main temple is intricately carved. It is built over a platform, need to climb 3-4 steps. Below the steps there is a small window, through which one can see a water cistern. The priest told us, it is actually a pond; the temple is built over a water body.
Climbing the steps are three arches behind which is the Garbha-griha.

There is a Well beneath, opposite the temple (left side as you enter the main entrance - pictured above). Need to climb down 7-8 steps. Water from here flows out of a Go-mukh (गोमुख), about 30-50 meters away into a pond. However the area around that Go-mukh is not worth taking a photo even. Cleanliness drive of the water body is urgently required.

Dhomeshwar Mahadev - Temple Complex

Opposite Shiva Temple on Left is a circular construction. It is the Laxmi-Narasimha Temple, built by the Peshwas. Unique here is that there are two idols of Laxmi-Narasimha back-to-back. Narasimha here is in its two forms, with Goddess Laxmi sitting on his left thigh.

Laxmi-Narasimha Temple

One form is of Ugra Roop (Angry Form), with Hiranyakashyapu (हिरण्यकश्यपु) lying on his thighs & Narasimha tearing his stomach with bare hands.
The other form is the Shanta Roop (Peaceful form).

Narasimha - Ugra Roop

Narasimha - Shanta Roop

There was another unique sculpture that I haven't seen anywhere yet. A Face Scuplture of Paandavas. Four faces are on the sides, facing outwards & fifth face is on top, facing the sky.
Looking at it, I felt as if its our answer to the USAs Mount Rushmore in South Dakota. And how old is Mount Rushmore? Only about 90 years!!! (it was built just recently in 1925).    ;-)

Face Sculpture - Paandavas (2 faces are at the back)

loved these colors

We turned back till the dam-wall road. Climbed a bit on the wall and view was breathtaking.

Panorama - Dhom Dam
(Kamalgad at the centre)

Dhom Dam backwaters were in front of us with Kamalgad at the centre. I tried capturing the entire scene by 4 photo panorama above.
Exactly behind me is Paandavgad.

Photographer in me awakens ...  ;-)

It was hardly 12 noon. And our planned places had finished. Now we were discussing another possible place. There was Limb-sheri near Satara (Baara Motaachi Vihir), Kaas-Bamnoli, Thoseghar, Panchgani. We decided to go to Panchgani (पाचगणी), have something at Mapros, visit few Points, have a lunch & return.

However, being Diwali holidays, there was mad rush. Heavy traffic jams in between. Mapros was jam-packed - inside and outside also. We dropped the idea & planned to go ahead to Mahabaleshwar. There was the same scene. Th road to Kates Point & Echo Point (which is really small) was packed due to traffic. We also dropped the idea of seeing any Points.

We had a lunch at a hotel near Mahabaleshwar market. Had a small stroll in the market post-lunch. By the time we decided to leave, the rush had started to increase. So we decided to go ahead via Poladpur in Konkan on NH-17 instead of turning back all through traffic jams. On the way is Fort Pratapgad. Hence it got added in our itinerary.

Pratapgad is that part of our history, for which each one of us are & should be proud of. It is a witness to the battle that was fought at its foot in the year 1659 - Battle of Pratapgad.
Adilshah of Bijapur had sent Afzal Khan to lead an assault against Shivaji Maharaj in order to curb the growing Maratha threat. Shivaji at that time was at Pratapgad. Afzal Khan therefore moved his forces towards here.
During peace-discussions between Shivaji & Afzal Khan, Khan made a life attempt on Shivaji. Shivaji was prepared for this & responded; killing Khan by a single stroke of Wagh-Nakhi. A battle erupted soon after ending with a decisive victory of Marathas over Adilshahi forces.
Afzal Khan was burried as per Islamic customs & a tomb built at the foothills. This was Shivaji's philosophy - "Once the enemy is dead, enmity is dead too".
This tomb was open to see earlier, but now due to a controversy, it is closed for tourists since past 7-8 years.

We ascended the Ambenali Ghat (अंबेनळी घाट) which connects Mahabaleshwar with Poladpur on NH-17. In between is a way on left towards Pratapgad. Fort is accessible by road. Spacious parking is available. However, people visiting are in so large numbers (due to Mahabaleshwar nearby), that the parking falls short now. Mostly on holidays, cars have to be parked on the sides of narrow road, which creates more traffic problems.

किल्ले प्रतापगड

Fort from here is very easy to climb. Well-cut steps are there till the top. After the Main Entrance, comes the highlight of Pratapgad - Mahadwar Maachi or Afzal Maachi. Due to shortage of time, we could not see the entire fort. We went a little ahead to capture a snap of this Maachi & we turned back.
Above this Maachi is the Citadel which houses a Bhavani Mata Temple, Life-size statue of Shivaji. There are many sites to see on the fort. All these on my next visit. Guides are also available who can take you around the fort with some information.

Mahadwar Maachi (Afzal Maachi) -
Afzal Khan's Tomb can be seen on the right

We started our return journey from Pratapgad at around 5.15 pm. We went to Poladpur on NH-17 and joined the Varandha Ghat from Mahaad. Reached the NH-4 again at Kapurhol. We avoided traffic at Mahabaleshwar but landed in pathetic road on this Varandha route.

We reached back in Pune at 9.30 pm.

Odo Readings:
0 kms    Padmavati, Pune
20         Khed Shivapur Toll
34         Kapurhole
71         Wai / Surur Phata (Exit)
84         Wai
88         Menavali
95         Dhom Dam
113       Panchgani
130       Mahabaleshwar
154       Pratapgad
180       Poladpur
193       Mahad
290       Khed Shivapur Toll
310       Padmavati, Pune

Map:

Shivthar Ghal - January 20, 2013

This was actually a family function, a naming ceremony, of one of our friends' son in Mahad (महाड). We decided to visit Shivthar Ghal (शिवथर घळ) on the way. We four (with Nitin, Tushar & Vishal) started off at 6.15 pm from Padmavati locality in Pune in a Hyundai i-10. We took the NH-4 (Mumbai - Bangalore Highway).

We took a breakfast break for an awesome Misal-Paav at Kailas at Khed-Shivapur. We moved ahead at 7.30 am. After the toll, there comes a place called Kapurhol (कापुरहोळ). On left is a road for Ketkavale - Narayanpur (केतकावळे - नारायणपुर). Just ahead of that is small road on Right. This is the road for Bhor, Bhatghar Dam & Varandha Ghat (भोर, भाटघर धरण, वरन्धा घाट). There is no sign board. One needs to be very careful; else you'll suffer a small U-Turn ahead.

Little ahead Bhatghar Dam Wall is visible on your right. Back-waters is not seen from the road. One needs to venture inside - off-road - to view the same. Approx 15 kms from NH-4 comes a Taluka-Town called Bhor. At the end is a "T" section. Take right for Mahad (left goes to a place called Shindewadi).

About 20 kms from here comes village by the name Devghar (देवघर). From here start the backwaters of newly made Neera-Devghar Dam (नीरा-देवघर धरण). The road twists and turns around the sides of the vast back-waters. This drive is splendid. We were here in the wrong timing of the year actually. I have decided to visit this drive now in monsoons. We took a brief photography pit-stop here; while clicked some other snaps while on the drive.

Neera-Devghar Dam

As soon this beauty ends, the other one starts - Varandha Ghat descend - one of the tough ghats to get down in Konkan (कोकण). It has some breath-taking hair-pin sloping turns that could bring a lump even in a seasoned driver's stomach. But that is later; at the start are the Bhajia, Vada-pav & Chai (भजी, वडा-पाव, चहा) stalls at the foot of a large black stone cliff.

View from Varandha Top

Highlight of Varandha - a different perspective
as we see this cliff normally in monsoons, lush green

Just before ghat ends, there is diversion to Right for Shivthar Ghal (शिवथर घळ) - info board is available. However, just note that the route is only for small vehicles. Buses need to descend the ghat completely and then there is a bigger and much cleaner road on Right (5 kms prior to Birwadi).

The smaller road is only of 7 kms, while the bigger one costs about 22 odd kms (as per Google Map); however it will be better you go by the longer route in monsoons, or if you do not want to subject your vehicle for a torture testing. The time when we went, route was ok. It was about 10.15 am when we reached Shivthar Ghal.

Sunder Math - the shrine is called so

Shivthar Ghal is a place of historical importance. Saint Ramdas (संत रामदास) narrated the famous spiritual text, the Daas-bodh (दासबोध) to Kaartik Swami (कार्तिक स्वामी), who wrote it down in a small cave (Ghal in Marathi) here sometime in 17th century. It is here where Saint Ramdas and Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj (छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराज) met for the first time. Saint Ramdas further went on become Maharaj's Spiritual Guru.

Its a very low heighted cave, about 7 feet. At some points it is as low as 3-4 feet. A tall person like me can barely stand straight here. Presently, the scene of Ramdas Swami narrating Dasbodh to Kaartik Swami is constructed inside with statues.

By the side of the cave there is a water fall - a small stream of water seen falling - though seen only if watched minutely. However, this must be converting itself into a magnificent water fall. We knew we were going to miss this because of wrong timing, however, we though since we are going nearby, let's atleast visit the place.

This water fall will definitely a worthy place to visit in monsoons. Just a caveat - one cannot do all those things that you might come hoping to do in a water fall considering the spirituality of the location. This is infact a very good combination of a spiritual place by the side of a water fall. I don't remember any other place, atleast in Maharashtra.

By 11.00 am, we starter off towards Mahad, about 30 kms from here. This time we took the other better road since we had to go ahead towards Mahad.

After function, sumptuous lunch and brief rest, we started for our return journey at 4 pm. This time we took the other route, the Tamhini Ghat route. Our plan was to cross the ghat before dark.

We took a tea-break at Nizampur (निझामपुर), ahead of Mangaon (माणगाव). On the I saw two boards - one for Pala Caves and the other for Hot Water Springs (on the other bank of Savatri River) towards Mangaon on NH-17 (Mumbai-Goa Highway).

We reached Chandni Chowk at 7.30 pm. After some snacks in a hotel here, we reached our gathering point, Padmavati, at 9 pm.

Map:

Odometer readings:

00 km        Padmavati (Pune)

20 kms       Kailas Bhel

36 kms       Kapurhol

52 kms       Bhor - take Right at a "T" joint

70 kms       Devghar   (Neera-Devghar Dam)

101 kms     Right - small road for Shivthar Ghal

109 kms     Shivthar Ghal

144 kms     Mahad

Return journey

174 kms     Mangaon

184 kms     Nizampur

194 kms     Take Right turn by the Posco Company

198 kms     Take Right turn at a "T" joint - Tamhini Ghat starts

228 kms     Tamhini village

242 kms     Mulshi

256 kms     Paud

266 kms     Pirangut

288 kms     Padmavati

Bamnoli - A Drive In The Clouds - August 19, 2012

After a long time we had our first “real” monsoon trip of this season. It was a result of a month-long planning with my office colleagues; we had to tweak it a bit at the end though. Our initial plan was for the Kaas Plateau - कास पठार (Maharashtra’s very own Valley of Flowers), the yearly season being August and September. We had even done the booking on their website. However last week we came to know that there are no flowers yet, might be due to delayed monsoon. We therefore changed our destination to Bamnoli (बामणोली), a lake-village about 15 kms ahead of Kaas. This would give us an opportunity also, to really see the status of flowers and plan our future Kaas-specific trip next time.

I started off with my family from Narayan Peth at 6.30. I was to meet 3 more families coming from Chinchwad directly through the Mumbai-Bangalore Bypass Highway. Finding a flat tire and therefore after mending it, I reached Dari Pul (Valley Bridge) on NH-4 from Sinhagad Road at 7.20 am.

The 2 Tata Vistas and 1 Fiat Punto started the journey at 7.30 am. We took the same route till Satara Tunnel (refer my last years trip to Thoseghar).

The Machines

Since last 8-10 days we didn’t witness rains in Pune. I was wondering how “dry” our trip is going to be. But from the point we left our house, it was drizzling continuously all along the trip till evening when we decided to get back to Pune. In between this drizzle, there were heavy showers which lasted for about 5 minutes and again subsided to give way to the sprinkles.

We had a gratifying breakfast of Misal-Pav and Idli Sambar in between as well as a fuel pit-stop and we reached the Tunnel after Satara by 11.00 am. Going through this tunnel will take you to Fort Sajjangadh, Thoseghar Waterfalls and Chalkewadi Wind-mills. Just prior to the tunnel there is this road going up-hill on right. It goes to Kaas and Bamnoli. A small sign-board is available.

Initially, there are two very bad road patches of about quarter a kilometer each. Later on the road condition is OK to Good; however the width is extremely small. One car coming from the front and either of you will have to go off-road.

As you start ascending, you can see the outstanding view of Satara City-scape down on your right. We were just imagining how this view would be looking at night with the street and building lights glowing. Once on top, prior to the Kaas Plateau, two water bodies are seen on both sides of the road - Urmodi (उरमोडी) Dam on LH side and Kaanher (कान्हेर) Dam on RH side.

Kaanher Dam

By the time we neared the Kaas Plateau, it started getting foggy all over. It seemed as if we were driving on the clouds. At 12 noon, it seemed as if its just 8 O’clock in the morning.

Just at the point where the plateau starts, they have now constructed a check-post tent. Now after Kaas Plateau being declared a World Heritage Site, prior online booking is required, an entry fee of Rs. 10 / person is charged, fencing is being constructed on both sides of the roads – legally you cannot trespass on the fields leaving the road, actually vehicle parking is also not allowed on the road side. Therefore one cannot do all those activities that were done till last year – parking the vehicles on road, driving on the plateau damaging the natural habitat, littering with chocolate and wafers wrappers, etc.

I was apprehensive about this online booking stuff; however we had carried the booking printout with us. And that guy at the check-post asked us for the booking print (surprised?). We paid the entry-fee, received a proper receipt of Rs. 10 and then we were allowed to move ahead. What I found was though security guards are present after every few 100 meters; they are finding it very difficult in preventing the visitors to park their vehicles on road. At many times either fencing is not yet completed or gaps are made in between and people were squeezing through.

One good observation is that there is couple of off-roads made, with fencing of course, from the main road so that visitors can go on the plateau in a controlled environment.

We also stopped for 5 minutes; however, as heard earlier, flowering had just started. Very few flowers had blossomed and it would take another 15-20 days or so to witness “this” beauty of the place. Apart from this, there was so much of fog that we were not able to get a clear view. Also, our destination was Bamnoli. Therefore we found it suitable not to waste time here and hence moved ahead.

Kaas Plateau

Fencing being erected along both sides of road

Ascending the ghat after the plateau was more pathetic. Near the Kaas Lake, people had parked (locked) there cars on the sides causing a traffic jam due to a very small road.

A little ahead we found an open space by the road. Here we parked our vehicles and went by the lake side. This is the Kaas Lake, constructed about a century ago. Satara City receives water from here.

It is mentioned to be "a hidden gem" on one of the blogs. One misunderstands the Kaanher Dam to be the Kaas Lake. It suddenly appears while ascending a ghat after the Plateau on RH side. And as the guy has mentioned, it "is" surely a Gem. We could see a blanket of fog spread over kissing the water surface. The scene was surreal.

Kaas Lake

We had reached the lake when heavy showers started suddenly. With 3 small kids with us we had to rush back to our cars.

Again our destination was calling us. Hence, without wasting much time we cooched ahead. The road from here was a descending ghat with swift twists and turns through the dense cover of trees; and with heavy fog, it was giving an eerie feeling in the atmosphere.

By 1.45 pm we reached Bamnoli, a very small and quiet village on the banks of “Shiv-sagar”, back-waters of Koyana (कोयना) Dam. Compared to the rush and crowd that we saw at Kaas, this place was much better. Though there is no specified parking space, the road was enough to hold whatever vehicles visited that day. There were volunteers, may be the boat club members, to guide the visitors for parking space.

Main activity at Bamnoli is boating. A privately owned Boat Club is functional here. Motor Boats of the capacity of 6 to 12 patrons are operated. Fare and visit route is fixed based on time required – which ranges from 45 minutes to a full day. Places include Triveni Sangam (Rivers Koyana, Solashi and Kandati), Tapola, Datta Mandir, Vasota Fort, etc. Fare mentioned on the board was for a group of either 6 or 12 patrons. However, it is calculated based on total head count at the end.

Bamnoli - Shivsagar Lake (Koyna Dam backwaters)

We went for a ride to Tapola (तापोळा). It was a one hour return ride. This Motor Boat ride with its diesel engine roaring at the center, cool breeze gushing through the ears and drizzling rain drops coming inside was mesmerizing. Kids enjoyed a lot, even we adults. We reached Tapola in half-an-hour’s time. Tapola is actually the point which is ahead to Mahabaleshwar. It is referred to Mini-Kashmir – only because of its similarity in boating facilities to that of Dal (दल) Lake in Srinagar (श्रीनगर).

Boat-ride to Tapola

We got down here as we had 15 minutes time to return back. But just to mention, there is no point actually in getting down here. Boating and the view of the Lake ahead are the only places to see here, just as in Bamnoli.

After we reached back to Bamnoli, we had a filling Lunch. It was already 3.15 pm and everyone was dying of hunger. There are small restaurants, actually run by the villagers in front of the spaces of their houses. They provide a typical Maharashtrian Veg / Non-Veg Thali. To save time, you can give the order, go for boating and have your food once you return.

By 4.15 pm we started our return journey. We took the same way back. While climbing up the ghat to Kaas Plateau, it felt the same, as if it was still 8 O’clock in the morning.

After a cup of tea once we were on NH-4 we reached Pune at 9.00 pm.

Coordinates:

17° 43' 02.31" N  /  73 48' 51.18" E          Kaas Lake

17° 44' 1" N        /  73° 45' 36" E             Bamnoli

Odometer readings:
0 kms    Narayan Peth
25        Toll (Khed-Shivapur)
98        Toll (Bhuinj / Pachwad)
122      Tunnel after Satara
144      Kaas Plateau
158      Bamnoli
195      Tunnel - return journey
198      Satara
216      Toll (Bhuinj / Pachwad)
313      Narayan Peth